Os Melhores Champagnes de Todos os Tempos por Robert Parker

Este post vem diretamente de encontro ao tema da Confraria Brasileira dos Enoblogs que foi publicada hoje. O Enoleigos falou sobre a Veuve Clicquot, um ícone da história da Champagne.

Me veio a idéia deste post e lá fui eu pesquisar na Wine Advocate. Surpresas? Aqui quase nenhuma. Fui direto nos Espumantes com mais de 97 pontos. Adivinhem? França na cabeça! Só Champagne nesta seleta seleção!!!

A surpresa veio somente ao analisar os preços. Existia um exemplar abaixo dos USD100,00, custando USD50,00, o 1990 J Lassalle Special Club, o problema é encontrar pra comprar.

Vamos então à lista!

Um feliz natal a todos!

In Vino Veritas!

Gustavo Kauffman

Os Melhores Champagnes de Todos os Tempos por Robert Parker

1996 Krug Clos de Mesnil Blanc de Blanc

A Champagne Blend Dry White Sparkling wine from Champagne, France,

Review by

WA # , #186 (Dec 2009)

Rating: 99

Drink 2011 - 2036

Cost: $1249-$1498

As if there were any doubts, Krug’s 1996 Brut Blanc de Blancs Clos du Mesnil reaffirms its position as one of the greatest – if not the greatest – Champagne of this historic harvest. I have had the privilege of drinking the 1996 Clos du Mesnil a few times over the last year and it has always been breathtaking, as it is again today. The wine sparkles on the palate with a brilliant, pointillist expression of fruit, showing surreal detail, depth and polish. Like a finely cut gem, each impression reveals a different and unique shade of nuance. The 1996 Clos du Mesnil coats every inch of the palate with endless layers of perfumed fruit and a chiseled, minerally finish that lasts forever. The oak seems a touch pronounced in this particular bottle, something I have not encountered previously with this wine. If forced to drink only one Champagne (assuming budget was not an issue) I might very well choose Krug’s 1996 Clos du Mesnil. This profound Champagne is as good as it gets. No disgorgement date provided. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2036. My tasting this year with Olivier Krug was fascinating as I had the rare opportunity to taste all of the house’s 1996’s side by side, a comparison that yielded very interesting results. Importer: Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200

1990 Bollinger R D

A Champagne Blend Dry White Sparkling wine from Champagne, France,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #144 (Dec 2002)

Rating: 98

Drink -

Cost: $221-$416

This wine was recommended, but no tasting note was given.

1996 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Francaises

A Champagne Blend Dry White Sparkling wine from Ay, Champagne, France,

Review by

In the Cellar # , #1110 (Nov 2010)

Rating: 98

Drink -

Cost: $999

Bollinger’s 1996 Vielles Vignes Francaises is another Champagne that has developed beautifully in the last few years. Today it is nothing less than profound. Tasted several times next to Krug’s Clos d’Ambonnay, also a pure 100% Pinot, the Vielles Vignes Francaises currently shows a touch more inner perfume, sweetness and depth in a rich, vinous style that is impossible to resist. Both wines are insanely beautiful, drop-dead gorgeous and utterly seductive. Wow! Today the edge goes to the Vielles Vignes Francaises for current pleasure. I am not sure how the 1996 will age, but I honestly can’t imagine it can possibly get better than it is right now. Today it is undoubtedly one of the wines of the vintage.

1995 Krug Clos d'Ambonnay

A Champagne Blend Dry White Sparkling wine from Ambonnay, Champagne, France,

Review by

WA # , #186 (Dec 2009)

Rating: 98

Drink 2010 - 2020

Cost: $2221-$4200

The 1995 Brut Blanc de Noirs Clos d’Ambonnay is simply profound from the very first sip. All of the classic Krug elements are there; the signature bouquet, the finesse of the best Clos du Mesnils, but with the broader shoulders of Pinot from Ambonnay. The fruit is intricately layered in sublime, graceful notes of mineral-infused, perfumed berries that linger on the eternal finish. Totally rich and seductive, the 1995 Clos d’Ambonnay is a wine that will stimulate the intellectual and hedonistic senses to the maximum. In a word, it is divine. The 1995 Clos d’Ambonnay is hard to resist today, but it should continue to develop positively in bottle for a number of years. The only problem is the $3,500 price tag, which means the wine will only be enjoyed by an elite few. No disgorgement date provided. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. My tasting this year with Olivier Krug was fascinating as I had the rare opportunity to taste all of the house’s 1996’s side by side, a comparison that yielded very interesting results. Importer: Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200

1996 Krug

A Champagne Blend Dry White Sparkling wine from Champagne, France,

Review by

WA # , #186 (Dec 2009)

Rating: 98

Drink 2009 - 2036

Cost: $320-$537

The real surprise among Krug’s 1996s is the 1996 Vintage, which is drinking beautifully, even among this rarified air of single-vineyard Champagnes. The 1996 Vintage is explosive and creamy, with just the right balance of power, richness and freshness. The mousse is perhaps just a touch less refined than in the 1996 Clos du Mesnil and Clos d’Ambonnay, but it is also perfectly measured with the wine’s exuberant personality. This multi-dimensional, textured Champagne is at the early part of its drinking window and promises to deliver an incredible drinking experience over the coming decades. The take-away from this flight of 1996s from Krug is simple. Although the 1996 Vintage can’t possibly be described as inexpensive, it shows exceptionally well next to its much more expensive brethren and clearly delivers a similar level of quality. Readers who have the opportunity to pick up this wine should not hesitate. It is a gem. No disgorgement date provided. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2036. My tasting this year with Olivier Krug was fascinating as I had the rare opportunity to taste all of the house’s 1996’s side by side, a comparison that yielded very interesting results. Importer: Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200

1996 Louis Roederer Cristal Rose

A Champagne Blend Dry Rose Sparkling wine from Champagne, France,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #162 (Dec 2005)

Rating: 98

Drink 2005 - 2015

Cost: $575-$750

The 1996 Cristal Rose is an intensely-flavored Champagne with an unusually light pale salmon color. Its effervescence is restrained (almost non-existent), but the flavors are intense in this dry, austere, provocative offering. An outrageously great, singularly-styled rose Champagne, it is best served with intensely-flavored food. It is a tour de force in Champagne to enjoy over the next 7-10 years. Louis Roederer does not display a disgorgement date or consumer friendly lot number on its non-vintage Brut. This is regrettable as it has consistently been one of the finer bottlings in this category. Importer: Maison Marques & Domaines USA Inc., Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 286-2000.

1999 Louis Roederer Cristal

A Champagne Blend Dry White Sparkling wine from Champagne, France,

Review by Pierre Rovani

WA # , #162 (Dec 2005)

Rating: 98

Drink -

Cost: $230-$808

One of the finest Champagnes I have ever brought to my lips, the 1999 Cristal bursts from the glass with fresh hazelnut and apple scents. Elegant, deep, and silky-textured, this medium to full-bodied beauty is immensely concentrated, pure, packed with apple flavors, and astoundingly long in the finish. Louis Roederer does not display a disgorgement date or consumer friendly lot number on its non-vintage Brut. This is regrettable as it has consistently been one of the finer bottlings in this category. Importer: Maison Marques & Domaines USA Inc., Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 286-2000.

1982 Louis Roederer Cristal

A Champagne Blend Dry White Sparkling wine from Champagne, France,

Review by

In the Cellar # , #0309 (Mar 2009)

Rating: 98

Drink 2009 - 2019

Cost: $499

I was completely blown away by the 1982 Cristal. This towering, monumental wine possesses incredibly vibrancy and delineation in its white truffles, honey and hazelnuts. This bottle shows some of the tertiary notes found in the 1979 but married to an intense expression of ripe fruit. While the 1979 is fully resolved the 1982 has another decade-plus of fine drinking ahead of it. The 1982 is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. 20% of the wine was aged in oak. This bottle is an original disgorgement from 1987 or 1988 and received 12 grams of dosage. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019.

1996 Moet Chandon Dom Perignon

A Champagne Blend Dry White Sparkling wine from Champagne, France,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #162 (Dec 2005)

Rating: 98

Drink 2005 - 2030

Cost: $231-$366

The brilliant 1996 Dom Perignon, which has largely disappeared from the marketplace, may be the finest young example of DP I have ever tasted. Notes of crushed rocks, honeysuckle, lemon oil, orange marmalade, and white pear provide a stunning aromatic display as well as palate impression. Great acidity and huge flavor intensity backed up by vibrant acidity make this an exquisite Champagne. It should drink well for 20-25 years, possibly longer. Readers should remember that the 1971 Dom Perignon Rose is still drinking exquisitely. I recently had the 1969 and 1970 Dom Perignons (from magnum), and both were drinking brilliantly. It makes one realize just how long-lived these wines can be. Production is confidential, but there must be hundreds of thousands of cases of Dom Perignon since it available in most of the world’s luxury hotels and restaurants. Importer: Moet-Hennessy, USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200.

2004 Cedric Bouchard Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Blancs la Haute Lemblee

A Chardonnay Dry White Sparkling wine from Celles Sur Ource, Champagne, France,

Review by

WA # , #180 (Dec 2008)

Rating: 97

Drink 2008 - 2019

Cost: $125

Bouchard's 2004 Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Blancs La Haut-Lamblee is striking in its depth, clarity, and sheer beauty. This vivid wine possesses tons of richly layered Chardonnay fruit intermingled with suggestions of smoke, minerals and earthiness in a mind-bending display of elegance and pure breed. Made in a powerful style, this Champagne shows a remarkable inner tension that makes it very hard to put the glass down. The wine could use a few years in bottle but it is simply breathtaking today. This is an unforgettable wine that must be tasted to be believed. The Haut Lamblee spent 46 months on its lees, and like all Bouchard wines, it was bottled unfined, unfiltered and with no dosage. This bottle was disgorged in March 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. The explosive, kaleidoscopic Champagnes of Cedric Bouchard are some of the most compelling wines coming out of the region today. Quite simply, this set of new releases left me speechless and literally shaking my head in awe. Readers should do whatever they can to experience these magnificent wines. Bouchard farms just under three hectares of vineyards. There are two ranges; the Inflorescence wines are made from vineyards owned by Bouchard's father, while the Roses de Jeanne wines are made from vineyards Bouchard owns himself. The vineyards are cropped to yields that would be considered miniscule in any region in the world, but are shockingly low compared to the average in Champagne, where high yields are prevalent. Because of the low yields, the wines reveal a very fine and subtle mousse. The wines are made from hand harvested fruit, crushed by foot and fermented with natural yeasts. Bouchard prefers stainless steel, as he believes the neutrality of steel allows for the maximum amount of expression of his philosophy, which is single-vineyard,single vintage and single-variety bottlings. The wines are neither fined nor filtered and are disgorged with no dosage. Unfortunately the wines do not carry a disgorgement date on the label, although I am told that will be changing next year. A Thomas Calder Selection, imported by Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

1990 J Lassalle Special Club

A Champagne Blend Dry White Sparkling wine from Champagne, France,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #109 (Feb 1997)

Rating: 97

Drink -

Cost: $50

The 1990 Lassalle Special Club is an awesome wine. This prestige cuvee is youthful, but wow, what intense flavors, exceptional delineation, elegance, and length this Champagne possesses. It seems obvious that the quality of the 1990 Champagne vintage is going to be remarkable, and the world-wide demand will be unprecedented. The message - buy them now! Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.

1990 Louis Roederer Cristal

A Champagne Blend Dry White Sparkling wine from Champagne, France,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #119 (Oct 1998)

Rating: 97

Drink -

Cost: $397-$998

The Louis Roederer 1990 Cristal is awesome! A classic of power and finesse, richness and delicacy, it may be the greatest Cristal I have ever tasted! One caveat. Champagne, more than any wine in the world, is extremely vulnerable to heat. Pierre Rovani has already tasted a cooked bottle of this wine. Readers need to be particularly careful when buying Champagne. Imported by (Maison Marques and Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 286-2000)

1975 Moet Chandon Dom Perignon Oeenotheque (3rd Release)

A Champagne Blend Dry White Sparkling wine from Champagne, France,

Review by

In the Cellar # , #0309 (Mar 2009)

Rating: 97

Drink 2009 - 2019

Cost:

I have been privileged to drink the 1975 Dom Perignon OEenotheque (3rd release) on several occasions and it has never been anything less than breathtaking, as it is again today. This surreal, beautiful Champagne reveals striking purity and clarity in its suggestions of honey, roasted nuts and sweet fruit in a style that recalls a mature grand cru Burgundy at its finest. The aromas and flavors are at once mature yet fresh, very much on the “grey” side of the spectrum Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy likes to talk about. Simply put, readers who can find and afford this sensual wine should not hesitate. It is a masterpiece. This bottle was disgorged in 2007 with minimal dosage. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019.

1996 Moet Chandon Dom Perignon Rose

A Champagne Blend Dry Rose Sparkling wine from Champagne, France,

Review by

In the Cellar # , #1110 (Nov 2010)

Rating: 97

Drink -

Cost: $320-$500

Three 1996s from Dom Perignon are special. After having compared original releases and OEnotheque bottlings across a number of vintages going back to 1964, I am increasingly of the belief that the most enjoyable Dom Perignons are impeccably stored bottles of the original release. The 1996 Dom Perignon Rose is simply off the charts. What a wine. The 1996 Rose has begun to fill out rather dramatically. Today it is rich, powerful and totally seductive.

1990 Moet Chandon Dom Perignon Rose Oeenotheque

A Champagne Blend Dry Rose Sparkling wine from Champagne, France,

Review by

In the Cellar # , #0310 (Mar 2010)

Rating: 97

Drink 2010 - 2015

Cost:

The 1990 is the first Dom Perignon Rose to be released as part of the OEenotheque program and is also the year Richard Geoffroy was appointed to his post as Chef de Caves. This is a hypnotic, mesmerizing wine that is unlike any Champagne I have ever tasted. A burnished, deep orange, the wine emerges from the glass with delicate layers of truffles, mushrooms, tea and autumn leaves that recall a great, mature Grand Cru red Burgundy. Candied orange peel, dried roses, spices, apricot jam and white pepper are some of the notes that develop with air. Despite its vivid, textured personality the wine hovers on the palate in a weightless, ethereal style. Geoffroy served the 1990 Rose OEenotheque in the new Riedel Burgundy glass, which worked beautifully, although this drinking experience may not be for everybody. With air, the 1990 Rose OEenotheque naturally loses much of its effervescence and turns more wine-like. Though undeniably beautiful, this is a highly quirky wine that should only be purchased by readers familiar with aged rose Champagne or those with an open mind, because it will challenge many preconceptions of what Champagne is and can be. At an estimated $900 a bottle, it won’t come cheaply, either. That said, it is marvelous and totally compelling. The 1990 Rose OEenotheque is 50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir, of which 20% is still Pinot. Geoffroy has plans to release a number of older roses, including the very rare 1966 sometime next year. The 1990 Rose OEenotheque is already rather forward, and I am not sure how it will age from here. I also have a personal preference for drinking roses a touch on the younger side, which readers should take into consideration when looking at my drinking window. The 1990 Rose OEenotheque spent ten years longer on its lees than the original release and received lower dosage. This bottle was disgorged in 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015.

1996 Salon

A Champagne Blend Dry White Sparkling wine from Champagne, France,

Review by

In the Cellar # , #1110 (Nov 2010)

Rating: 97+

Drink -

Cost: $280-$500

The 1996 Salon is yet another wine that is maturing splendidly. Once focused to the point of being painfully austere and angular, today the 1996 Salon has begun to soften and fill out. My latest bottles have been rich, generous and totally compelling in every way.

1976 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne

A Champagne Blend Dry White Sparkling wine from Champagne, France,

Review by

In the Cellar # , #0910 (Sep 2010)

Rating: 97

Drink 2010 - 2020

Cost: $799

Tattinger's 1976 Comtes de Champagne is simply fabulous. Still creamy, textured and vivid, the 1976 possesses a breathtaking combination of signature citrus freshness, superb inner sweetness and the slightest hints of more advanced oxidative tones. The 1976 has matured beautifully and appears to be at its most profound peak. Tonight it is devastatingly beautiful. Wow! Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.