Os Melhores Vinhos de Todos os Tempos de Portugal por Robert Parker

Continuando com a relação dos países do Velho Mundo, depois de falar da Itália e da Espanha, chegamos a Portugal.

Minha primeira surpresa foi ver que não são vinhos tão bem pontuados pelo Parker. Minha lista incluiu todos os vinhos com 96 pontos ou mais e cheguei a 31 rótulos.

A lista inclui alguns vinhos que também surpreendem pelo seu preço. Podemos citar o 2000 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port, de 98 pontos, vendido na faixa dos 100 dólares nos Estados Unidos ou ainda o 2007 Graham Vintage Port, com 97 pontos, vendido por volta dos 75 dólares na terra do Tio Sam! Para citar um vinho que não seja Vinho do Porto, falo do 1990 Dow Quinta Do Bomfim, de 96 pontos, ao custo de 89 dólares. Curiosamente a Quinta possui o mesmo sobrenome de minha Bisavó que carrego comigo, Bomfim, com “m” antes do “f”.

Já que estamos falando de Portugal, vale citar que a safra de 2007 para os vinhos do porto foi muito boa!

Vamos a lista completa!

In Vino Veritas!

Gustavo Kauffman (GK)

Os Melhores Vinhos de Todos os Tempos de Portugal por Robert Parker

1947 J M da Fonseca Moscatel de Setubal

A Proprietary Blend Sweet White Dessert wine from Setubal, Portugal,

Review by

eRobertParker.com # , #186 (Dec 2009)

Rating: 100

Drink -

Cost:

The 1947 MOSCATEL DE SETUBAL was my pick of what was poured. Yes, it was rich and thick, as most of them were. Yet, it also had some elegance despite its mouth coating features. A combination of the intense flavors and superb supporting acidity gave it a gripping and simply remarkable finish. Nose, palate, finish, balance. Add the fact that it is simply delicious. It is hard to see what there is to quibble about, even though I like to quibble. It will more or less last until there is no liquid left to pour. The Moscatel notes here were based on what I tasted at the winery from cask, in a small but exceptional tasting of old Moscatel. Most of these wines will never see the marketplace now as they come from the owners’ private cellar and dwindling stocks. Some of the rarer wines in cask had reached a point where there wasn’t much liquid left. They were so thick from age and oxidation that they literally would be better “poured” with the aid of a spoon. What was poured-- and pourable-- is worth noting, however, because they shed a lot of light on how tremendous these wines can be and how long they can age. Too many people think Portugal just means Port and Madeira for sweet wines, and the Douro with some Touriga Nacional based blend for table wines. This would be understandable—but completely wrong. Portugal has a richer history than most realize. Importer: Palm Bay Imports, Port Washington, NY; tel. (561) 362-9462.

1997 Quinta do Noval Nacional

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #126 (Jan 2000)

Rating: 100

Drink 2007 - 2040

Cost: $1000-$2646

The 1997 Nacional is a legend from this pre-phylloxera vineyard. The color is a saturated black/purple. The nose reveals floral scents intermixed with coffee, blackberries, tar, cassis, licorice, and chocolate. Extremely full-bodied, but less massive and seamless, this spectacular Nacional will reach its plateau of maturity quickly, where it will remain for 2-3 decades. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2040. Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ; tel. (732) 225-9000

1997 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #126 (Jan 2000)

Rating: 100

Drink 2005 - 2035

Cost: $200-$299

The 1997 vintage port is the greatest Quinta do Noval I have ever tasted. The wine of the vintage, this black/purple-colored port boasts fabulous aromatics (espresso, blackberries, licorice, tar, and flowers), followed by massive concentration, full body, and levels of depth and richness. Gorgeously sweet, stunningly concentrated and full-bodied, this profound vintage port should be legendary. Quinta do Noval's production normally approaches 4,000 cases, but in 1997, only 1200 cases were produced, so it will be extremely limited in availability. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2035. Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ; tel. (732) 225-9000

1992 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #97 (Feb 1995)

Rating: 100

Drink 1995 - 2045

Cost: $199-$400

Taylor's 1992 Vintage Port is unquestionably the greatest young port I have ever tasted. It represents the essence of what vintage port can achieve. The color is an opaque black/purple, and the nose offers up fabulously intense aromas of minerals, cassis, blackberries, licorice, and spices, as well as extraordinary purity and penetration. Yet this is still an unformed and infantile wine. If Chateau Latour made a late-harvest Cabernet Sauvignon, I suspect it might smell like this. In the mouth, the wine is out of this world, displaying layer upon layer of concentrated black fruits backed by well-integrated tannin and structure. This is a massive, magnificently rich, full-bodied port that will be far more flattering in its youth than were such Taylors as the 1983, 1977, or 1970. It possesses awesome fruit, marvelous intensity, and lavish opulence, all brilliantly well-delineated by the wine's formidable structure. This monumental 30-50 year port is a must purchase for port aficionados.! Also noteworthy is the fact that the 1992 Taylor commemorates the 300th anniversary of this firm, as evidenced by the special bottle Taylor used for this port. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300.

1963 Quinta do Noval Nacional

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #107 (Oct 1996)

Rating: 99

Drink 1996 - 2096

Cost: $1600-$3012

Amazingly, the importer still has tiny stocks of such legendary ports as the 1970, 1963, and 1962 Nacionals. In most vintages the production of Quinta do Noval Nacional is no more than 250-275 cases. The 1970,1963,1962 and 1994 are candidates to achieve perfect scores. The 1963 Nacional's opaque purple color is remarkable, looking more like a 1992 than a 33-year old port. The wine possessed a fabulously smoky, cassis, black-cherry, peppery nose. After thirty minutes in the glass, fruitcake notes and more evolved aromas emerged. This port is so concentrated it defies belief, with extraordinary balance, and, like its two siblings, well-integrated alcohol and tannin. The impression is one of a silky, succulent, voluptuously-textured mouthful of exceptionally extracted port. This is a legend in the making. In 30-40 years it may well be considered, along with the 1931, as one of the greatest ports ever produced. Those lucky few with a bottle or two should plan to hold onto them for another decade before pulling the cork. It, too, is a hundred-year port. Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ; tel. (908) 225-9000

1966 Quinta do Noval Nacional

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by

In Asia # , #0509 (May 2009)

Rating: 99

Drink 2009 - 2018

Cost: $1995

Pale brick colour. Incredible nose providing an amazing array of youthful primary fruit aromas mixed with evolved complexity. Notes of plum pudding, liquored cherries, dried plums, preserved walnuts, mocha, Chinese five spice and a dollop of spirity/estery headiness. The palate is incredibly fat and rich yet perfectly balanced by refreshing acidity and velvety tannins. Very spicy and very, very long in the finish. Drink now to 2018+? Tasted January 2009.

1994 Quinta do Noval Nacional

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #107 (Oct 1996)

Rating: 99

Drink 2010 - 2050

Cost: $1127

Amazingly, the importer still has tiny stocks of such legendary ports as the 1970, 1963, and 1962 Nacionals. In most vintages the production of Quinta do Noval Nacional is no more than 250-275 cases. The 1970,1963,1962 and 1994 are candidates to achieve perfect scores. The 1994 Nacional is an incredibly rich, massive wine, yet at the same time, well-balanced and amazingly well-delineated. The color is an opaque purple. In addition to the abundant peppery, floral, cassis fruit, there is an ethereal character to this super-rich, pure wine that is not the least bit heavy. A compelling Nacional, it possesses even more stuffing than the regular bottling (as one might suspect), and at least 30-40 years of longevity. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2050. Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ; tel. (908) 225-9000

1962 Quinta do Noval Nacional

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #107 (Oct 1996)

Rating: 98

Drink 2001 - 2096

Cost: $400

Amazingly, the importer still has tiny stocks of such legendary ports as the 1970, 1963, and 1962 Nacionals. In most vintages the production of Quinta do Noval Nacional is no more than 250-275 cases. The 1970,1963,1962 and 1994 are candidates to achieve perfect scores. Remarkably, the 1962 Nacional exhibited an even more opaque color than the 1970, as well as exquisite richness and concentration. Massive (but not in the Taylor style), this phenomenally concentrated, complex, still youthful vintage port is a tour de force in winemaking, and one of the greatest, can you believe this, young vintage ports I have ever tasted. This wine needs another 5-10 years to reach full maturity as neither the color nor aromatics reveal much development. It could easily have one-hundred years of longevity. Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ; tel. (908) 225-9000

2000 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #143 (Oct 2002)

Rating: 98

Drink 2010 - 2040

Cost: $77-$150

Among the most saturated blue/purple/black-colored examples of the vintage, Taylor's 2000 tastes like a young vintage of Chateau Latour on steroids. Aromas of graphite, blackberry liqueur, creme de cassis and smoke jump from the glass. Spectacularly concentrated and enormously endowed, with sweetness allied to ripe tannin, decent acidity, and layer upon layer of fruit and extract, this is the leading candidate for the port of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040. Importer: Kobrand Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

2003 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Pierre Rovani

WA # , #161 (Oct 2005)

Rating: 98+

Drink 2035 - 2060

Cost: $85-$250

The 2003 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port improved each time I raised it to my nose or mouth. It displays a black color and a salty, graphite-laced nose packed with sweet black fruits that is reminiscent of a stellar vintage of Chateau Latour. With air, notes of molasses, burnt sugar, spices, and jammy plums emanate from the glass. Full-bodied, hugely dense, immensely rich, as well as thick, this behemoth is also amazingly balanced and harmonious. Raisins, molasses, licorice, black cherries, plums, and a distinctive note of violets are found in its complex, seamless character. Its interminable finish reveals additional notes of chocolate, kirsch, red as well as black currants, dark cherries, and rose blossoms. Armed with exceptional power, depth, and purity, this Taylor will proudly stand shoulder to shoulder with the finest ever crafted by the Fladgate Partnership. Projected maturity: 2035-2060. Importer: ????

2007 Taylor Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha

A Port Sweet Red Dessert wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by

WA # , #187 (Feb 2010)

Rating: 98

Drink -

Cost: $180

The 2007 Taylor Fladgate Quinta de Vargelles Vinha Velle is from a single site, the finest of the estate. In theory it might lack the complexity of the blended bottling but that does not appear to be the case in 2007. My nominee for wine of the vintage, this dense, powerful, incredibly concentrated effort is a bit monolithic today but all the ingredients are present for a slow maturation over the next 25-30 years. Succulent, mouth-filling, and altogether captivating, it is just a shadow of what it will be when I am pushing daisies. As always, Taylor Fladgate is one of the benchmarks of a declared vintage in Oporto. Importer: Kobrand Corporation, New York; tel. (212) 876-7916

1945 Dow Vintage Port

A Port Sweet Red Dessert wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by

In Asia # , #0910 (Sep 2010)

Rating: 97

Drink -

Cost: $906-$1695

Pale brown colour. A little mute to begin but with coaxing and patience a wonderfully complex bouquet of coffee, figs, mushrooms, damp soil, preserved kumquat and dried cherry / mulberry emerges. With a high level of enlivening acidity, the incredibly rich palate has layers of spice, coffee and savoury flavours well supported by a medium level of velvety tannins. Long finish with some lingering notes of creme brulee. Fully mature but should cellar a further 8-10 years at least.

1992 Fonseca Vintage Port

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #97 (Feb 1995)

Rating: 97

Drink 1995 - 2035

Cost: $77-$200

Fonseca has scored in both the 1991 and 1992 vintages. The 1992 is a majestic young port that should ultimately rival, perhaps even surpass this house's most recent great efforts (1985, 1977, 1970, 1963). This colossal vintage port reveals a nearly opaque black/purple color, and an explosive nose of jammy black fruits, licorice, chocolate, and spices. Extremely full-bodied and unctuously-textured, this multi-layered, enormously-endowed port reveals a finish that lasts for over a minute. It is a magnificent port that will age well for 30-40 years. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300.

1994 Fonseca Vintage Port

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #107 (Oct 1996)

Rating: 97

Drink 2002 - 2035

Cost: $145-$300

One of the most spectacular 1994s, this opaque purple-colored wine is an exotic, flamboyant, ostentatious port. Extremely fragrant and pungent, with a flashy display of jammy cassis, pepper, licorice, and truffles, this port is an attention-grabber. Awesomely rich, and full-bodied, with superb length, richness, and overall balance, it possesses a huge mid-palate, layers of flavor, an unctuous texture, and a blockbuster finish. Everything is in place, with the brandy and tannin well-integrated, even concealed by the masses of fruit and glycerin. This wine will drink fabulously well at age ten, but keep for up to thirty years. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2035. Importer: Kobrand Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

2007 Graham Vintage Port

A Port Sweet Red Dessert wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by

WA # , #187 (Feb 2010)

Rating: 97

Drink 2010 - 2050

Cost: $68-$120

A candidate for wine of the vintage, the 2007 Graham’s Vintage Port is complete in every way. Opaque purple-colored, it offers up an ethereal perfume of smoke, mineral, Asian spices, incense, an amalgam of ripe black fruits, and a hint of chocolate in the background. This leads to a dense, super-rich, plush, opulent wine that hides its structure under all the fruit. Vibrant, impeccably balanced, and exceptionally lengthy, it will easily age for another 25-30 years in the cellar and drink well through 2050, probably longer. It is a tour de force. Importer: Premium Port Wine, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 554-9920

1902 J M da Fonseca Moscatel de Setubal

A Proprietary Blend Sweet White Dessert wine from Setubal, Portugal,

Review by

eRobertParker.com # , #186 (Dec 2009)

Rating: 97

Drink -

Cost:

The 1902 MOSCATEL DE SETUBAL is a fabled wine. Dwindling stocks make it likely that consumers will not see it again, but it is worth noting how well this ages. It is just spectacular. Rich and thick, this is a bit funky on first smell, but that blows off fast, leaving a wine that has a seemingly endless and intensely flavorful finish. It is beautifully supported by its acidity and still seems lively, even if it looks like motor oil. How will it age? It may be immortal, until the liquid gets to the point where it can’t be poured. The Moscatel notes here were based on what I tasted at the winery from cask, in a small but exceptional tasting of old Moscatel. Most of these wines will never see the marketplace now as they come from the owners’ private cellar and dwindling stocks. Some of the rarer wines in cask had reached a point where there wasn’t much liquid left. They were so thick from age and oxidation that they literally would be better “poured” with the aid of a spoon. What was poured-- and pourable-- is worth noting, however, because they shed a lot of light on how tremendous these wines can be and how long they can age. Too many people think Portugal just means Port and Madeira for sweet wines, and the Douro with some Touriga Nacional based blend for table wines. This would be understandable—but completely wrong. Portugal has a richer history than most realize. Importer: Palm Bay Imports, Port Washington, NY; tel. (561) 362-9462.

1994 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #107 (Oct 1996)

Rating: 97

Drink 2008 - 2045

Cost: $140-$300

When tasting young vintage ports, Taylor is always the most backward. Yet potentially, it has the capability to be the most majestic. This classically made, opaque purple-colored wine is crammed with black fruits (blueberries and cassis). It reveals high tannin and a reserved style, but it is enormously constituted with massive body, a formidable mid-palate, and exceptional length. It is a young, rich, powerful Taylor that will require 10-15 years of aging. Compared to the more flashy, forward style of the 1992, the 1994 has more in common with such vintages as 1977 and 1970. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2045. Importer: Kobrand Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

1990 Dow Quinta Do Bomfim

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #82 (Aug 1992)

Rating: 96

Drink 1992 - 2022

Cost: $89

I thought this was a staggering example of port. Dow's style tends to be more backward, but this opaque black/purple-colored wine reveals a huge, powerful, intense palate, with gobs of flesh and viscous fruit. There is considerable tannin in the finish. It is a massive port with no indication of excessive alcohol in the finish. A magnificent young, dry-styled vintage port that just goes on and on in the mouth, it should last for 20-30 years. The single Quinta ports are just as spectacular as any vintage port I tasted from 1983 or 1985. Importer: Premium Port Wine, Inc., Sausalito, CA.

1994 Dow Vintage Port

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #107 (Oct 1996)

Rating: 96

Drink 2004 - 2030

Cost: $64-$120

The massive 1994 is unquestionably the finest Dow I have tasted since the 1977. This opaque purple-colored wine is not as developed or flamboyant as Fonseca, but it is super-concentrated and multi-layered, with huge masses of fruit and some tannin in the finish. This is a slightly drier style than Fonseca or Graham's, but it appears to be a classic, majestic, enormously constituted 1994 that should age effortlessly for three decades or more. It is one of the stars of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2030. Importer: Premium Ports and Madeiras; Sausalito, CA; tel. (415) 331-7656

1963 Fonseca Vintage Port

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

Buying Guide, 2nd Edition # , #B4 (Jan 1989)

Rating: 96

Drink -

Cost: $264-$600

Fonseca is one of the great port lodges, producing the most exotic and most complex port. If Fonseca lacks the sheer weight and power of a Taylor, Dow or Warre, or the opulent sweetness and intensity of a Graham, it excels in its magnificently complex, intense bouquet of plummy, cedary, spicy fruit and long, broad, expansive flavors. With its lush, seductive character, one might call it the Pomerol of Vintage ports. When it is young, it often loses out in blind tastings to the heavier, weightier, more tannic wines, but I always find myself upgrading my opinion of Fonseca after it has had 7-10 years of age. The 1963, one of the great modern-day classics of vintage port, is an incredibly aromatic, sublime, majestic port that simply defines Fonseca's style perfectly.

2003 Fonseca Vintage Port

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Pierre Rovani

WA # , #161 (Oct 2005)

Rating: 96+

Drink 2035 - 2060

Cost: $56-$120

Sporting an opaque, black-colored robe with dark purple trim, the 2003 Fonseca Vintage Port exhibits a nose of profound depth. Its sweet black mass of dark fruit and spice aromas leads to a character of immense depth, richness, and weight. Full-bodied, viscous, and almost impenetrable, this dense, backward port is powerful and exceptionally long in the finish. Possibly the most masculine Fonseca I’ve ever encountered, it coats the taster’s palate with licorice, jammy black fruits, and notes of chocolate that last for over a minute. This blockbuster will require at least three decades to fully blossom. Anticipated maturity: 2035-2060. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

1990 Graham Malvedos Centenary

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #82 (Aug 1992)

Rating: 96

Drink -

Cost: $35

This is the sweetest, most fragrant, and most highly extracted of the three ports I tasted (Symington, Dow and Graham). Its flamboyant, up-front fat and decadence provide more initial appeal than the monstrous but restrained Dow. It also reveals extraordinary richness and a fabulous finish. These single Quinta ports are just as spectacular as any vintage port I tasted from 1983 or 1985. Importer: Premium Port Wine, Inc., Sausalito, CA.

1963 Graham Vintage Port

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

Buying Guide, 2nd Edition # , #B4 (Jan 1989)

Rating: 96

Drink -

Cost: $248-$579

Graham is another great port house, producing one of the deepest-colored and sweetest styles of vintage port. Along with Taylor and Fonseca, Graham has probably been the most consistent producer of great port in the post- World War II era. Their tawnys are quite good rather than exceptional, but their vintage ports are truly sublime and sumptuous.

1985 Graham Vintage Port

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

Buying Guide, 2nd Edition # , #B4 (Jan 1989)

Rating: 96

Drink 1992 - 2012

Cost: $70-$175

Graham is another great port house, producing one of the deepest-colored and sweetest styles of vintage port. Along with Taylor and Fonseca, Graham has probably been the most consistent producer of great port in the post- World War II era. Their tawnys are quite good rather than exceptional, but their vintage ports are truly sublime and sumptuous. Graham is the undisputed star and kingpin of the 1985 vintage ports. Yes, it is made in a sweeter style than the other ports, but it is a fabulous wine because of a dazzling level of black-cherry fruit, an enormous structure, and staggering depth, dimension, and length. It is forward, as are all 1985s, and I would speculate that this port will be approaching maturity by 1992-93 and will keep 15-20 years thereafter.

1994 Graham Vintage Port

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #107 (Oct 1996)

Rating: 96

Drink 2002 - 2035

Cost: $59-$125

In a port tasting, tasting Graham's is almost like tasting a big, rich, succulent Merlot after a group of blockbuster, tannic Cabernets. Sweeter and more obvious than many ports, the opaque purple-colored 1994 is fruity, powerful, and rich, with an addictive hedonistic quality. It will be ready to drink in 8-10 years and keep for up to 30. As always, this is a showy, flamboyant port that has the advantage of being slightly sweeter than other 1994s. A great Graham's. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2035. Importer: Premium Ports and Madeiras, Sausalito, CA; tel. (415) 331-7656

1748 Justino Henriques Verdelho Solera

A Verdelho Dry White Madeira wine from Madeira, Portugal,

Review by

In the Cellar # , #1108 (Nov 2008)

Rating: 96

Drink -

Cost:

The 1748 Verdelho Solera from Justino Henriques is a soft, creamy-textured Madeira with sweet notes of apricots, spices, toffee and roasted coffee beans. The wine is remarkably fresh, perfumed and graceful as it continues to gain clarity and definition with air. Quite frankly, I had hard time moving on after tasting this elegant, complete wine. What a Madeira! This is bottle #710.

2003 Quinta do Crasto Vinha Maria Teresa

A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by

WA # , #169 (Feb 2007)

Rating: 96

Drink 2009 - 2023

Cost: $125

The 2003 “Vinha Maria Teresa” is the latest version of this special bottling. The fruit here is a little closed on opening, but with air it goes from closed to simply stunning and utterly delicious. It is sweet and fragrant, chock full of beautiful fruit and full bodied. The succulent fruit has a certain raspberry note turning to black cherry in the background. The tannins keep emerging with aeration, demonstrating this wine’s ageworthy nature and providing considerable grip on the finish. As it wakes up, it becomes rather piercing, penetrating and pointed in the mid-palate, then the fruit begins to expand and the flavors become ever more exuberant. The deft hand with the tannins provides support and firmness without being overbearing. This was simply beautiful on Day 1, and it was vibrant the next day as well, although it took a long while to soften even then and become more harmonious. There were times early on when it seemed a bit disjointed and a little heady, but this ultimately resolved beautifully, so well, in fact, that it might just be the pick of the litter. Although I think that this will cellar well, I’d hate to lose that gloriously sweet fruit with age. I’d suggest drinking some early and holding some, but given the small production levels, most people won’t get much of this. Take comfort in knowing that no decision will be really wrong. It could use a couple of years to pull together. Drink 2009-2023. This old, historic estate, owned by the Roquette family, is on everyone’s short list for the designation “best dry wine producer in Portugal,” and with good reason. This is one of the estates that turbo-charged the dry red revolution in modern Portugal. As befits a standard bearer, they go from strength to strength and their wines are in high demand. Even their off-vintage wines are good, while their upper level “good vintage” wines are some of the most sought after in Portugal, and some of the most distinguished the country has to offer. The Roquettes’ exciting new joint venture with Jean-Michel Cazes (of Chateau Lynch Bages) is another feather in their caps. It is separately listed under “Roquette e Cazes.” The lineup from Quinta do Crasto was probably the most impressive that I tasted, from top to bottom, when I was in Portugal. (The wines reviewed here, as with almost everything in this report, were retasted from bottle under controlled conditions in the USA.) If there is a downside, it is the obvious one – the wines are pretty pricey, a function of prestige and, sometimes, scarcity. Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 931-1725

1970 Quinta do Noval Nacional

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #107 (Oct 1996)

Rating: 96

Drink 2000 - 2030

Cost: $500

Amazingly, the importer still has tiny stocks of such legendary ports as the 1970, 1963, and 1962 Nacionals. In most vintages the production of Quinta do Noval Nacional is no more than 250-275 cases. The 1970,1963,1962 and 1994 are candidates to achieve perfect scores. The 1970 Nacional remains a young, unevolved wine, as well as the lightest and least intense of the 1970, 1963 and 1962. That is not to suggest it is a wimpish wine as it is a powerful vintage port, but it is unbelievably graceful, youthful, and complex. The huge nose of licorice, smoke, jammy black-cherry and cassis fruit is followed by a wine of seamless components, all super-packed with gorgeously pure fruit, yet the wine is not heavy or overbearing. There is a real sense of elegance to this spectacular, young Quinta do Noval Nacional. My best guess is that it might be worth opening a bottle to celebrate the new century, but this wine will not hit its peak until around 2010; it will last until 2030. Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ; tel. (908) 225-9000

1997 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #126 (Jan 2000)

Rating: 96

Drink 2004 - 2030

Cost: $75-$150

Saturated black/purple-colored, with stunning aromatics of blueberries, blackberries, licorice, and iron, this spectacular vintage port is one of the stars of the vintage. Extremely full-bodied, with silky tannin, spectacular concentration and purity, multiple flavor levels, and an evolved, forward personality, this is an exquisite yet precocious 1997 vintage port. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2030. Importer: Kobrand Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

1970 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

Buying Guide, 2nd Edition # , #B4 (Jan 1989)

Rating: 96

Drink -

Cost: $210-$350

This house must certainly be the Latour of Portugal. Their ports are remarkably backward yet still impressive when young. Of all the vintage ports, those of Taylor need the longest time to mature and even when fully mature seem to have an inner strength and firmness that keep them going for decades. Their tawnys are also among the very best, though somewhat expensive. The 1970 fabulous, a broodingly dense-colored, backward port that has all the signs of future greatness, provided one is willing to cellar it until the early 1990s.

1977 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port

A Port Sweet Red Port wine from Douro, Portugal,

Review by Robert Parker

Buying Guide, 2nd Edition # , #B4 (Jan 1989)

Rating: 96

Drink 2000 -

Cost: $159-$250

This house must certainly be the Latour of Portugal. Their ports are remarkably backward yet still impressive when young. Of all the vintage ports, those of Taylor need the longest time to mature and even when fully mature seem to have an inner strength and firmness that keep them going for decades. Their tawnys are also among the very best, though somewhat expensive. The 1977 has consistently been at the top of my list of vintage ports in this great vintage, although the Dow, Graham, and Fonseca are equally splendid. It is a mammoth, opaque, statuesque vintage port of remarkable depth and power, but is should not be touched before 2000.