quarta-feira, 9 de fevereiro de 2011

Os Melhores Pinot Noir de Todos os Tempos por Robert Parker



A Pinot Noir é uma das uvas mais complexas do mundo do vinho. Manuseá-la nas vinhas exige muito trabalho e, para prová-la, é necessário uma compreensão diferente das que temos normalmente sobre outros vinhos tintos.

Na produção de tintos, ela dificilmente é blended com outras uvas, tendo sua fama calcada em varietais. Os vinhos tintos a base da Pinot Noir são, de uma maneira geral, sensuais, pálidos, perfumadamente doces e muitas vezes para reflexão.

A uva Pinot Noir é o contraponto da especialíssima Cabernet Sauvignon que, francesa como ela, conquistou o mundo inteiro e é hoje sinônimo de vinho tinto. Enquanto a CS produz caldos encorpados, profundos e com muita intensidade, a Pinot Noir sempre traz exemplares com mais aromas e uma elegância que não consegue ser alcançada por nenhuma outra uva. Uma das mais significativas diferenças entre as duas está no desenvolvimento na vinha. Enquanto a Pinot Noir necessita de clima frio e tem maturação mais rápida, a CS consegue se desenvolver bem em climas quentes e é uma das mais tardias a amadurecer. A difícil adequação da Pinot Noir às condições climáticas é uma das razões de não termos muitas regiões do mundo com vinhos destacados. Clima quente produz vinhos que beiram a marmelada, perdendo todo o seu caráter.

Nada melhor então do que trazer os melhores vinhos produzidos com esta emblemática Cepa aos olhos de Robert Parker!

Destaques aqui para o Romanee Conti de 1985, custando mais de USD13,000 lá nos Estados Unidos e, como contraponto, o Griotte Chambertin que, com 99 pontos, pode ser encontrado no mesmo mercado americano por USD80,00. É minha gente, é o mundo do vinho!

Os Melhores Pinot Noir de Todos os Tempos por Robert Parker

1993 Domaine Claude et Maurice Dugat Griotte Chambertin
A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine from Griotte Chambertin , Gevrey Chambertin, Cote de Nuits, Burgundy, France,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #100 (Aug 1995)
Rating: 100
Drink - 2015
Cost: $88

It is symptomatic of the Burgundy minefield that a vintage that has been recklessly promoted as a "great" year (when, in fact, there are too many astringent, austere, angular, thin-tasting wines for "greatness"), has also produced some astonishing Burgundies that are as compelling as any I have ever tasted. Dugat's Griotte-Chambertin is a religious experience, and not because it was made in a historic abbey/wine cellar. The color is an intense, saturated ruby/purple. The nose is classic, offering a penetrating fragrance combining profound quantities of red and black fruits, with toast, earth, and spice. Medium to full-bodied, with the essence of Pinot Noir distilled to its naked purity, this phenomenally intense, velvety-textured wine possesses exceptional fruit extraction that has been buttressed by sweet, ripe tannin. It is absurdly rich and seductive, yet also powerful and structured - a tour de force in wine-making! The 1993 is an even greater wine than Dugat's 1990. It should be cellared for a few years, but anyone lucky enough to latch onto a few bottles from the 100+ cases made may not be able to wait; it should last for 10-20 years. As the ratings attest, Claude Dugat, working in his 13th century abbey/wine cellar called Cellier des Dimes, hit several home runs in the 1993 vintage. His whole berry fermentation provides more fruit, but in his modest manner, Claude takes no credit for what are once again profound red Burgundies. No wonder when Lalou Bize-Leroy purchased wine for her negociant firm, she made this cellar one of her frequent stops. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083


1990 Domaine de la Romanee Conti La Tache
A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine from La Tache , Vosne Romanee, Cote de Nuits, Burgundy, France,

Review by Robert Parker
eRobertParker.com # , #E2002 (Feb 2002)
Rating: 100
Drink 2004 - 2015
Cost: $4150-$5470

I cannot think of a more profound, young red Burgundy tasted than DRC's 1990 La Tache. Although it still requires another 3-4 years of cellaring, it is incredibly endowed, with an extraordinary perfume of Asian spices as well as jammy black raspberries, cherries, and blackberries infused with smoke, toast, and dried herbs. Full-bodied, but ethereal, with layers of flavor, as well as mind-boggling delicacy and complexity, this youthful La Tache will be at its finest between 2004-2015.


1929 Domaine de la Romanee Conti Richebourg
A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine from Richebourg , Vosne Romanee, Cote de Nuits, Burgundy, France,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #84 (Dec 1992)
Rating: 100
Drink -
Cost:

Last Tasted 6/92 Long-time readers know that I am often much more critical of older wines than many other writers. To merit high ratings, an older wine must still be fully alive with its personality intact. With that in mind, I have to say that the 1929 DRC Richebourg is one of the most extraordinary wines I have ever tasted. A medium garnet color reveals orange and rust at the edge. The wine remains intact, with a compelling fragrance. A huge nose of smoked duck, herbs, sweet fruits, licorice, and truffles soars from the glass. This wine, which has refused to let go of any of its sweet jammy fruit, reveals an unctuous, opulent texture, and a chewy, alcoholic, fleshy finish. The word from Burgundy's old timers was that the 1929s were gorgeous young, but would not keep. At age sixty-three, this is as riveting a red wine as I have ever drunk. I should mention that this bottle had been re-corked several years ago at the domaine.


1985 Domaine de la Romanee Conti Romanee Conti
A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine from Romanee Conti , Vosne Romanee, Cote de Nuits, Burgundy, France,

Review by Robert Parker
Burgundy Book # , #B2 (Jan 1990)
Rating: 100
Drink 1990 - 2005
Cost: $13125

The Romanee-Conti is utterly mind blowing. The heady, intoxicating bouquet delivered penetrating and sublime aromas that were even more intense than those from the La Tache. On the palate, there is a veritable smorgasbord of earthly and heavenly delights. Needless to say, it is very rich, very opulent, and very concentrated. Red burgundy and red wine do not get any better than this. My guess is that it will peak between 1990 and 2005, as it is a bit more forward than either the La Tache or Richebourg. This fabled estate has had a brilliant track record since 1978. Lalou Bize-Leroy and Aubert de Villaine seem to have everything tightly within their grasps, so it is unlikely that some of the lapses in quality control that occurred previously will resurface. I am sure they still cannot understand why their estate is so frequently singled out for malicious attacks, but no one should have any trouble appreciating the domaine's 1985s, which are their best wines in decades, even surpassing their sensational 1978s. The problem is coming up with the cash to finance them. The wines, aged in 100% new oak, are never filtered.


1991 Domaine Leroy Latricieres Chambertin
A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine from Latricieres Chambertin , Gevrey Chambertin, Cote de Nuits, Burgundy, France,

Review by Pierre Rovani
WA # , #131 (Oct 2000)
Rating: 100
Drink 2005 - 2012
Cost:

The stupendous 1991 Latricieres-Chambertin knocked me off my feet. Its dark color and boisterous aromas of spices, plums, and expressive cherries boldly proclaim this wine's youthfulness. Layers of plums, dried prunes, flowers, cedar, and roses can be found in this gem's barely evolved personality. It is seamless, complex, and complete. It has immense power and muscle, yet is elegant and detailed. This magnificent wine should be at its peak of maturity between 2005 and 2012+.


1985 Maison Leroy Hospices de Beaune Cuvee Madeleine Collignon
A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine from Beaune, Burgundy, France,

Review by Robert Parker
Burgundy Book # , #B2 (Jan 1990)
Rating: 100
Drink 1990 - 2015
Cost:

Much has been written about the dynamic Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy. Some of it has been malicious and motivated strictly by insidious jealousy. From time to time I have complained of her pricing structure. Yet there should never be any criticism of her philosophy of what burgundy should be. Her wines are among the noblest and purest expressions of Pinot Noir in Burgundy. They are treated with the care of a pampered child, never filtered, and bottled barrel by barrel. Given the size of her wines and their power and structure, in a cool damp cellar they will last 20 to 25 years. Bize-Leroy thinks 1985 is one of the two best burgundy vintages in the last twenty years, the other being 1978. Given the range of wines I tasted, 44 in all, 16 were exceptional, 21 very good to excellent. Thirty-seven very good to exceptional wines out of 44 is an amazingly high percentage, and I would be proud to own any of them.


1995 Domaine Claude Dugat Griotte Chambertin
A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine from Griotte Chambertin , Gevrey Chambertin, Cote de Nuits, Burgundy, France,

Review by Pierre Rovani
WA # , #118 (Aug 1998)
Rating: 99
Drink 2002 - 2010
Cost: $600

One of the extraordinary benefits of my job is that generous wine lovers open stunning wines for me just to see if I still like them as much as I originally did. I've tasted this wine on five (!) separate occasions since my original review was published (it was rated 96-99+ from a barrel sample in Issue #111). This is a mesmerizing wine. It is dark ruby colored, almost inky black, with bright streaks of purple on the edges. Aromatically it reveals an unreal depth of intense black fruits that give way to an explosion of black cherries, plums, blackberries, blueberries, violets, mocha, cafe au lait, sweet oak, and Asian spices. Wave upon wave of luscious fruit unfold on the palate in this opulent and hedonistic offering's velvety-textured core. Perfectly balanced and harmonious, intense yet soft, structured yet supple, it is a tour de force. Wow2! Anticipated maturity: 2002-2010. Bravo! What remains to be said about this wine crafted by the shy, self-effacing, and ever-smiling Claude Dugat? Well, it might be getting even better. While still having the opulence of fruit and suppleness that have made his wines renowned throughout the world, this wine appears to have more structure. My instincts have, in the past, been that Dugat's wines were best drunk young, but this wine displays the necessary balance between fruit, acidity, and backbone for extended cellaring. Perhaps Jean-Marc Joblot, the extremely talented Givry producer, said it best: "Claude Dugat's 1996s are the most beautiful expression of Pinot Noir I've ever had." A taster would have to be dead not to fall in love with these wines. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083.


1990 Domaine Claude et Maurice Dugat Griotte Chambertin
A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine from Griotte Chambertin , Gevrey Chambertin, Cote de Nuits, Burgundy, France,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #83 (Oct 1992)
Rating: 99
Drink 1992 - 2007
Cost: $80

While similar to the Charmes-Chambertin, the Griottes-Chambertin is even richer and longer, with a fragrance that could fill a room. Again, the characteristic style of Maurice and Claude Dugat is for phenomenally sweet, opulent extraction of fruit complemented lightly by toasty new oak. This massive, yet exceptionally concentrated, supple wine exhibits a finish that lasts nearly 90 seconds. It and the Charmes-Chambertin, are monumental examples of red burgundy that should drink well for at least 10-15 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC.


2002 Domaine D'Auvenay Mazis Chambertin
A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine from Mazis Chambertin , Gevrey Chambertin, Cote de Nuits, Burgundy, France,

Review by Pierre Rovani
WA # , #153 (Jun 2004)
Rating: 99
Drink 2009 - 2020
Cost: $810

The dark ruby-colored 2002 Mazis-Chambertin is the darkest, broadest, biggest, and most concentrated of all of Madame Leroy’s 2002s. It reminds Madame Leroy of the stupendous 1985 Mazis-Chambertin she produced from the Hospices de Beaune. Its super-ripe blackberry, spice, herb, and clove aromas lead to a full-bodied personality reminiscent of liquid wax. Hugely deep, perfectly balanced, this chewy, classy wine slathers the taster’s palate with untold quantities of black fruits and Asian spices. It is a stunning example of its vineyard and vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020. Importers include: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400; and Lauber Imports, Somerville, NJ; tel. (908) 725-2100


2005 Domaine de la Romanee Conti Romanee Conti
A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine from Romanee Conti , Vosne Romanee, Cote de Nuits, Burgundy, France,

Review by David Schildknecht
WA # , #170 (Apr 2007)
Rating: (99-100)
Drink -
Cost:

There are more startling complexities in the 2005 Romanee-Conti than in any other wine here today, perhaps in the vintage. A stunning, high-toned and utterly unique perfume of pink grapefruit, blood orange, tangerine rind, vivid rose petal, musk, cinnamon, sage, and cassis seduces the olfactors in kaleidoscopic rotation. I hesitate to court sacrilege or ridicule with Germanic allusions but it is impossible not to imagine a great Pinot scented with Gewurztraminer and Scheurebe. On the palate, a pure, clean meatiness emerges, like butchering a meadow-fed lamb, bitter-sweet flowers flying forth in an inner-mouth profusion. Soy and black truffle lend a dark, savory note to the proceedings, leading the long finishing procession over a path strewn with rose petals. Fear not: despite its silken texture, there are abundant tannins woven into this amazing tapestry as well, and I am sure those lucky enough to own some can retain it as collateral, then leave it to their children, safe in the knowledge it has not decayed. Reverential drinking after a dozen or more years would, however, be my preference. Once the grapes in these fabled vineyards had reached a potential alcohol of 13%, reports Aubert de Villaine, he was ready to pick, because conditions had seldom been so conducive to perfect ripeness (including that of the stems). It was all done in a week, commencing with La Tache and Romanee Conti, and finishing on September 23 with Romanee-St.-Vivant (and Montrachet, on which I shall report at a future date). De Villaine intended to bottle in March or April by gravity in six-barrel lots, as has become general practice here over the past decade. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661.


2003 Domaine de la Romanee Conti La Tache
A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine from La Tache , Vosne Romanee, Cote de Nuits, Burgundy, France,

Review by Pierre Rovani
WA # , #160 (Aug 2005)
Rating: 99
Drink 2013 - 2030
Cost: $1729-$4098

The 2003 La Tache reveals aromas of milk chocolate, violets, roses, and dark cherries. Suave, displaying massive amplitude and a full-bodied, velvety-textured character, this behemoth’s flavor profile brings to mind chocolate-covered black cherries. Immensely powerful and noble, it offers an interminable finish that is packed with flawlessly ripe, sweet tannin. Projected maturity: 2013-2030. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661


1993 Domaine Leroy Nuits St Georges les Boudots
A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine from , Les Boudots, Nuits St Georges, Burgundy, France,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #100 (Aug 1995)
Rating: 99
Drink 1995 - 2020
Cost: $710-$881

NOTE: Prices quoted are for single bottles, not cases! How do you describe the prodigious Nuits St.-Georges Les Boudots? It is an awesome red Burgundy that is unconscionably concentrated, with extraordinary delineation to its personality, and massive ripeness and richness that buries what must be considerable tannin. Approachable now, this phenomenal wine should be at its apogee by the turn of the century and drink well for 20-25 years. When I traveled through Burgundy, it appeared Lalou Bize-Leroy may have as many critics as I do. Some producers accuse her of adding "Alicante" to her wines because she obtains such a deep color. Others claim she is hiding hundreds of cases of grand crus in another cellar since her yields cannot "possibly be so low." Of course all of this is nonsense, not to mention appallingly jealous behavior from producers who are scared to death that other growers might decide to follow in Lalou's footsteps. For


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