O país que escolhi para trazer a segunda lista dos melhores por Robert Parker e, claro, a Wine Advocate, foi a Espanha! Mais um país do velho mundo, com vinhos sensacionais e inebriantes!
A lista da Espanha foi mais seletiva. Incluí somente vinhos com 99 ou 100 pontos pois, se incluísse os de 98 pontos, chegaria a mais de 90 vinhos! Incrível, não?
O que mais me surpreendeu foi que esta seleta lista, de 22 rótulos, possui 2 que custam menos de 100 dólares nos Estados Unidos e um em específico, o 1994 Clos Erasmus a bagatela de 35 dólares e, vale lembrar, nos Estados Unidos, imaginem o preço dele na Espanha! Já estou ativando meus contatos e espero conseguir uma garrafa, torçam por mim!
Vamos então à lista completa!
In Vino Veritas!
Gustavo Kauffman
Os Melhores Vinhos Espanhóis de Todos os Tempos por Robert Parker
2004 Artadi Vina El Pison
A Tempranillo Dry Red Table wine from Rioja, Spain,
Review by
eRobertParker.com # , #189 (Jun 2010)
Rating: 100
Drink 2010 - 2050
Cost: $490
The 2004 El Pison stands out from its peers. It has a deeper color than the 2007 with a splendid nose that jumps from the glass. Notes of espresso, balsamic, Asian spices, pain grille, mineral, and black cherry lead to a velvety, mouth-filling, deep wine that effortlessly combines elegance with power. It should easily drink well for another 30-40 years. It simply does not get any better. No visit to Rioja would be complete without a visit to Artadi and maestro Juan Carlos Lopez de Lacalle. Artadi’s most recent releases are the 2007s which were reviewed in Issue 183. On this occasion, we sampled the promising 2009s from barrel in addition to the 4 vintages of the flagship Vina El Pison (all of which have been previously reviewed, the 1995 and 1998 by Robert Parker). The El Pison comes from a single Tempranillo vineyard planted in 1945 on pure limestone. Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565
2004 Benjamin Romeo Contador
A Tempranillo Dry Red Table wine from Rioja, Spain,
Review by
eRobertParker.com # , #169 (Feb 2007)
Rating: 100
Drink 2007 - 2106
Cost: $349
The 2004 Contador is even better than the 2003 if that is possible. More expressive aromatically (a characteristic of 2004) this wine is more tightly wound and backward than the 2003. Unlike the 2003 it demands a minimum of a decade of cellaring and could well last for 75-100 years if well stored. Collectors will have a blast tasting these two wines side-by-side. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767
2005 Benjamin Romeo Contador
A Tempranillo Dry Red Table wine from Rioja, Spain,
Review by
WA # , #175 (Feb 2008)
Rating: 100
Drink 2020 - 2045
Cost: $250-$799
The 2005 Contador was selected from three parcels ranging in age from 65-80 years. Malolactic fermentation occurred in new oak followed by 12 months of barrel aging. Opaque purple/black, it has a great brooding nose of crushed stone, truffle, pencil lead, black cherry, and blackberry. Rich, layered, and opulent, on the palate the wine is dense, thick, and tightly wound. Impressively long, this wine demands 12-15 years of further cellaring. It should show at its best between 2020 and 2045. Words can barely do justice to how singular these wines are. They must be tasted to be believed. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain; tel. (781) 461-5767
2004 Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza Gran Reserva
A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Rioja, Spain,
Review by
eRobertParker.com # , #189 (Jun 2010)
Rating: 100
Drink 2010 - 2060
Cost:
However, (surprise, surprise) even better is the 2004 Gran Reserva which has yet to be released. It spent 5 years in barrel before bottling. Purple/black in color with a surreal bouquet of kinky spice, truffle, mineral, and black fruit aromas, on the palate it is remarkably powerful, yet elegant. Mouth-filling, complex, and staggeringly rich, it has the balance to evolve for 15-20 years and should easily have a 50 year lifespan. Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza is one of Rioja’s benchmark estates. It encompasses about 132 acres located in four regions of Alava Rioja planted to approximately 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano. The winery itself is located in the village of Samaniego. Upon my arrival at the Bodega in May 2010, I discovered a surprise. In addition to a vertical tasting of all the Reservas, Senor Remirez had prepared a similar vertical of Trasnocho, a wine that has never been exported to the USA. With all due respect, the greatest vintages from Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza in my opinion are 2004 and 2001. Trasnocho is Fernando Remirez de Ganuza’s take on a more contemporary style. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767
2004 Clos I Terrasses Clos Erasmus
A Dry Red Table wine from Priorat, Spain,
Review by
WA # , #169 (Feb 2007)
Rating: 100
Drink 2007 - 2022
Cost: $350-$991
The 2004 Clos Erasmus is a blend of 75% Garnacha, 15% Syrah, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The aromatic profile is similar but more expressive and soars from the glass. It is somehow richer, broader, and more sexy with amazing complexity and length. Think of your wildest fantasy coming true and you may be able to conjure up the pleasure this wine delivers now and will continue to deliver over the next 12-15 years. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565
2005 Clos I Terrasses Clos Erasmus
A Dry Red Table wine from Priorat, Spain,
Review by
WA # , #175 (Feb 2008)
Rating: 100
Drink -
Cost: $175
The 2005 Clos Erasmus is produced from three vineyard sites originally terraced by the Greeks. The current blend is 85% Garnacha and 15% Syrah with a long-term goal of making a 100% Garnacha wine. The wine was aged for 18 months in new French oak. It is super-fragrant with aromas of crushed stone, slate, cinnamon, baking spices, cassis, kirsch, blueberry, and wild black cherry. Perhaps a bit tighter than the 2004, on the palate there is a liquid minerality that must be tasted to be believed. Opulent, harmonious, and awesome are words which really cannot do justice to this extraordinary vinous achievement. In a perfect world, purchasers would have the patience to cellar it for 10-15 years but this will be a severe test of one’s ability to delay gratification. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565
2004 Numanthia Termanthia
A Dry Red Table wine from Toro, Castilla Leon, Spain,
Review by
WA # , #169 (Feb 2007)
Rating: 100
Drink -
Cost: $399
Believe it or not, the 2004 Termanthia is even better than the Numanthia. From an 11 acre plot, 2600 feet above sea level, planted with 100+-year-old ungrafted vines, the yields were well under 1 ton of fruit per acre. The wine was barrel fermented and received the “200% new oak” treatment over 20 months before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. Opaque purple-colored, the wine has an awesome nose which is already multi-faceted. There are elements of pain grille, lead pencil, mineral, violets, blueberry and blackberry with just a bit more subtlety and nuance than its two colleagues. On the palate the wine is an infant developmentally with densely packed ripe fruit, sensational balance, and a seamlessness that must be tasted to be believed. It should age like a great vintage of Lafite or Latour and have at least a 50 year life span. If you have a soul, sell it to the devil for a few bottles of this extraordinary liquid. There are only 1500 bottles for the American market. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461- 5767
2004 Pingus
A Tempranillo Dry Red Table wine from Ribera Del Duero, Castilla Leon, Spain,
Review by
WA # , #189 (Jun 2010)
Rating: 100
Drink 2014 - 2044
Cost: $795-$2000
The 2004 Pingus is a glass-coating opaque purple/black color with a bouquet of Asian spices, incense, lavender, truffle, black cherry, and blackberry that soars from the glass. Dense, rich, and seamless, this is a complete, harmonious offering with no rough edges. It will continue to blossom for another 5-7 years and offer a drinking window extending from 2014 to 2044. Dominio de Pingus is located in the La Horra region of Ribera del Duero. Owner/winemaker, Peter Sisseck, an oenologist originally from Denmark, started the estate in 1995. There are currently 3 wines produced, Flor de Pingus, a single barrel cuvee called Amelia which began in 2003, and the flagship Pingus. In a normal vintage there are usually about 4000 cases of Flor de Pingus, 500 cases of Pingus, and 25 cases of Amelia. Flor de Pingus is sourced from a number of small parcels located in the La Horra zone. The vines are all over 35 years of age and have been farmed biodynamically since 2005.They are either owned or rented by Peter Sisseck, so Flor de Pingus always comes from the same pieces of ground. In that sense it is not a second wine but there is no question that is a very close approximation of Pingus at a fraction of the price. That makes it a relative bargain in the scheme of things. The wine is 100% Tempranillo typically aged for 14 months in new French barriques. The first vintage of Pingus was in 1995. The estate has been biodynamically farmed since 2000 and, according to Sisseck, has never been treated with fertilizer or pesticides. The Pingus vines are all at least 65 years of age and yields are typically under 1 ton per acre. The wines, made from 100% Tempranillo, are bottled without fining or filtration. Importer: Manny Berk, Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA
2003 Benjamin Romeo Contador
A Tempranillo Dry Red Table wine from Rioja, Spain,
Review by
eRobertParker.com # , #169 (Feb 2007)
Rating: 99
Drink 2007 - 2057
Cost: $355
The 2003 Contador (a meager 200 bottles for the American market) was sourced from three tiny parcels ranging in age from 65-80 years. It was fermented in new French barriques, aged for 12 months, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. The result is a spectacular wine with a remarkably expressive nose of pain grille, lead pencil, spice box, espresso, black currants, and wild blueberries that roars from the glass. The opulent palate is mouth-coating, thick, and full-flavored with the structure well-concealed by the masses of fruit. This legend in the making, while irresistible now, should evolve slowly over 2-3 decades much like a first growth Bordeaux and still be drinking at age 50. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767
2004 Bodegas El Nido El Nido
A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Jumilla, Spain,
Review by
WA # , #169 (Feb 2007)
Rating: 99
Drink 2010 - 2025
Cost: $325
The consulting winemaker at Bodegas El Nido is Chris Ringland of Barossa Valley fame. Amazingly, the 2004 El Nido is even better. It is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Monastrell sourced from the same vineyards as its sibling but from the tenderloin portions, and it received the same oak treatment. Similar in color, the nose offers a beautiful perfume of pain grille, vanilla, forest floor, black currant, and blackberry liqueur. The wine is more elegant on the palate with a velvety texture, layers of spicy black fruits, and great depth and balance. It admirably marries elegance and power. Cellar this fabulous wine for 3-4 years and drink it over the following 10-15. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767
1994 Clos Erasmus
A Dry Red Table wine from Priorat, Spain,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #105 (Jun 1996)
Rating: 99
Drink 1996 - 2021
Cost: $30-$35
Readers should see my profile of Eric Solomon and the extraordinary reviews of the 1992 and 1993 Clos Erasmus in issue #101, page 44. This wine, made from a blend of very old vine Grenache and younger vine Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon grown on terraced vineyards, is among the most exciting wines I have tasted. Unfortunately, only 300 cases are produced, all of which is exported to the United States. It is aged in 100% new French oak casks and bottled without fining or filtration. 1994 is considered to be one of Spain's all-time great vintages, so it is not surprising that this wine possesses more potential than the exceptional 1993 and 1992. Try to imagine a hypothetical blend of Petrus, l'Evangile, Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape, and Napa's 1993 Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon. The color is an opaque black/purple. The nose offers up spectacularly rich, pure aromas of blackberries, black-raspberries, minerals, and subtle vanillin from new oak barrels. Extremely rich and dense, with unbelievable levels of concentration and extract, this amazing wine is a strong candidate for a three-digit rating when it develops more maturity in 5-8 years. Since it is a newly created wine, there is no track record established for ageability, but a wine such as this should keep for 20-25 years. This is one of the most exciting young wines anyone could possibly taste. Awesome! European Cellars is located at 121 West 27th Street, Suite 1103, New York, NY 10001; tel. (212) 924-4949; fax (212) 924-0567
1998 Clos Erasmus
A Dry Red Table wine from Priorat, Spain,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #130 (Aug 2000)
Rating: 99
Drink 2007 - 2030
Cost: $319-$572
The spectacular 1998 flirts with perfection. A saturated opaque blue/purple color is not dissimilar from ink. Dazzling aromas of ripe, pure blackberries, violets, blueberries, wet stones, and smoky, toasty oak soar from the glass. Powerful, with an unctuous texture, and super-extracted, rich, concentrated flavors, this blockbuster effort boasts extravagant quantities of fruit, glycerin, extract, tannin, and personality. The wine displays a firm, structured edge, but a viscous texture from super concentration gives it immediate accessibility. This 1998 should hit its plateau of maturity in 7-8 years, and is a strong candidate for 20-30 years of aging. It is a winemaking tour de force. ERIC SOLOMON, EUROPEAN CELLARS, 236 West 27 St., Room 801, New York, NY 10001; tel. (212) 924-4949; fax (212) 924-0567
2003 Clos I Terrasses Clos Erasmus
A Dry Red Table wine from Priorat, Spain,
Review by
WA # , #169 (Feb 2007)
Rating: 99
Drink -
Cost:
The 2003 Clos Erasmus is a candidate for wine of the vintage in Spain. Made from 85% Garnacha and 15% Syrah, the wine is aged for 18 months in new French oak. Deep purple, the wine releases an ethereal nose of smoke, crushed stone, pencil lead, cassis, kirsch, black cherry and wild blueberry. On the palate the wine is liquid minerality, opulent, rich, yet focused and well-delineated. The finish lasts for over one minute. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565
2004 Espectacle Espectacle del Montsant
A Grenache Dry Red Table wine from Monsant, Spain,
Review by
WA # , #175 (Feb 2008)
Rating: 99
Drink -
Cost: $189
Espectacle is a new project jointly owned by Rene and Isabelle Barbier, Fernando and Marta Zamora, and Christopher and Charlotte Cannan. The wine is sourced from a single vineyard of 100+-year-old Grenache vines located at La Figuera on the northern edge of the Montsant D.O. The vineyard is tended by Rene Barbier’s Clos Mogador team and vinified in one special 4000-liter oak vat at Celler Laurona. Just over 400 cases are produced annually. The 2004 Espectacle del Montsant is deep crimson-colored with a sensational bouquet of mineral, espresso, lavender, violets, and black cherry. This leads to an opulent, nearly exotic wine with remarkable depth, complexity, and layers of sweet cherry-flavored fruit. It is as pure an expression of Grenache as exists anywhere on the planet and certainly the greatest example of Montsant ever produced. Importer: Christopher Cannan, Europvin, www.europvin.com
2004 Jorge Ordonez Essencia
A Sweet White Dessert wine from Malaga, Andalucia, Spain,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #166 (Aug 2006)
Rating: 99
Drink -
Cost: $99
The 2004 Essencia flirts with perfection. Possessing 12% alcohol and nearly 700 grams of residual sugar per liter, it must be tasted to be believed. It is beyond my abilities to describe, although the essence of marmalade and caramelized tropical fruits are present in this incredibly complex, multifaceted, profound wine. Sadly, there are only 600 cases.
1945 Marques de Riscal Gran Reserva
A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Rioja, Spain,
Review by
eRobertParker.com # , #189 (Jun 2010)
Rating: 99+
Drink -
Cost:
The 1945 Marques de Riscal Gran Reserva is from a cuvee designated R.M. (Reserve Medoc) and was made with over 50% Cabernet Sauvignon. In appearance it resembles a 15-year-old wine accompanied by a brooding bouquet of balsamic, Asian spices, incense, dried fruits, and subtle terroir notes. On the palate it reveals no age; lively, vibrant, layered, and concentrated, it is quite likely to outlive everyone born in the year 1945. Marques de Riscal is one of Rioja’s legendary estates. Here tradition and quality go hand in hand despite the Bodega’s enormous production and a few minor tweaks to update the style. It was my privilege in May 2010 to participate in a vertical tasting of Marques de Riscal Gran Reservas dating back to 1870 at the Bodega. The corks from the ancient vintages were removed with Port tongs to prevent any contamination of the wine. Shaw-Smith Importers, FL
1905 Perez Barquero Pedro Ximenez
A Pedro Ximenez Dry White Table wine from Montilla Moriles, Andalucia, Spain,
Review by
WA # , #175 (Feb 2008)
Rating: 99
Drink -
Cost: $725
The brown/black 1905 Pedro Ximenez has the viscosity of motor oil. Glass-coating with a mind-boggling perfume of English toffee, caramel, dates, figs, and milk chocolate, it has extraordinary depth, concentration, and length. It is a true tour de force. These splendid wines are very limited with only 200 bottles of each available to the USA market. Importer: Jose Pastor, Vinos and Gourmet, Richmond, CA; tel. (510) 237-0077
2005 Pingus
A Tempranillo Dry Red Table wine from Ribera Del Duero, Castilla Leon, Spain,
Review by
WA # , #189 (Jun 2010)
Rating: 99
Drink 2010 - 2050
Cost: $650-$1313
The 2005 Pingus is the most powerful of this series (power being a major characteristic of the top 2005s in the DO). It offers up a perfume beginning to develop some complexity, terrific volume and richness on the palate, and a lengthy, pure finish. This is a great wine that should have a 40 year lifespan. Dominio de Pingus is located in the La Horra region of Ribera del Duero. Owner/winemaker, Peter Sisseck, an oenologist originally from Denmark, started the estate in 1995. There are currently 3 wines produced, Flor de Pingus, a single barrel cuvee called Amelia which began in 2003, and the flagship Pingus. In a normal vintage there are usually about 4000 cases of Flor de Pingus, 500 cases of Pingus, and 25 cases of Amelia. Flor de Pingus is sourced from a number of small parcels located in the La Horra zone. The vines are all over 35 years of age and have been farmed biodynamically since 2005.They are either owned or rented by Peter Sisseck, so Flor de Pingus always comes from the same pieces of ground. In that sense it is not a second wine but there is no question that is a very close approximation of Pingus at a fraction of the price. That makes it a relative bargain in the scheme of things. The wine is 100% Tempranillo typically aged for 14 months in new French barriques. The first vintage of Pingus was in 1995. The estate has been biodynamically farmed since 2000 and, according to Sisseck, has never been treated with fertilizer or pesticides. The Pingus vines are all at least 65 years of age and yields are typically under 1 ton per acre. The wines, made from 100% Tempranillo, are bottled without fining or filtration. Importer: Manny Berk, Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA
2008 Pingus
A Tempranillo Dry Red Table wine from Ribera Del Duero, Castilla Leon, Spain,
Review by
WA # , #189 (Jun 2010)
Rating: 99
Drink 2016 - 2033
Cost: $580-$799
The 2008 Pingus had just been bottled when I tasted it. Deep purple in color, it sports a splendid aromatic array of smoke, mineral, Asian spices, incense, lavender, and black cherry. On the palate it exhibits outstanding volume, intense fruit, power combined with elegance, and a long, smooth finish. It is a complete, virtually seamless wine that might one day achieve perfection. Give it 5-7 years of cellaring and drink it from 2016 to 2033. Dominio de Pingus is located in the La Horra region of Ribera del Duero. Owner/winemaker, Peter Sisseck, an oenologist originally from Denmark, started the estate in 1995. There are currently 3 wines produced, Flor de Pingus, a single barrel cuvee called Amelia which began in 2003, and the flagship Pingus. In a normal vintage there are usually about 4000 cases of Flor de Pingus, 500 cases of Pingus, and 25 cases of Amelia. Flor de Pingus is sourced from a number of small parcels located in the La Horra zone. The vines are all over 35 years of age and have been farmed biodynamically since 2005.They are either owned or rented by Peter Sisseck, so Flor de Pingus always comes from the same pieces of ground. In that sense it is not a second wine but there is no question that is a very close approximation of Pingus at a fraction of the price. That makes it a relative bargain in the scheme of things. The wine is 100% Tempranillo typically aged for 14 months in new French barriques. The first vintage of Pingus was in 1995. The estate has been biodynamically farmed since 2000 and, according to Sisseck, has never been treated with fertilizer or pesticides. The Pingus vines are all at least 65 years of age and yields are typically under 1 ton per acre. The wines, made from 100% Tempranillo, are bottled without fining or filtration. (Not yet released) Importer: Manny Berk, Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA
NV Vega Sicilia Unico Reserva Especial
A Dry Red Table wine from Castilla Leon, Spain,
Review by
WA # , #175 (Feb 2008)
Rating: 99
Drink 2008 - 2045
Cost: $420
The Reserva Especial is a blend of the best barrels of 1990, 1991, and 1996 (for the record, the Reserva Especial reviewed in Issue #169 is a blend of 1985, 1991, and 1996). Purple-colored, it delivers an ethereal perfume of smoke, mineral, scorched earth, Asian spices, black currant, and blackberry. Elegant yet remarkably powerful, this rich, lavish effort seems to linger on the palate for well over one minute. Although it can certainly be enjoyed now, it has the structure to evolve for another decade and should provide pleasure through 2045. Importer: Christopher Cannan, Europvin; www.europvin.com
NV Vega Sicilia 2010 Release Unico Reserva Especial
A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Ribera Del Duero, Castilla Leon, Spain,
Review by
WA # , #189 (Jun 2010)
Rating: 99
Drink 2010 - 2035
Cost: $450
The 2010 release of the N.V. Unico Reserva Especial is a blend of the 1991, 1994, and 1995 vintages. Purple-colored, it proffers a brooding, complex, sexy perfume of cigar box, leather, mineral, truffles, Asian spices and blackberry jam. Rich, savory, and plush, it effortlessly combines power and elegance. It can be enjoyed now and over the next 20-25 years. Bodegas Vega Sicilia remains a benchmark for the world’s great red wines. The Valbuena bottling receives 3 years in barrel and 2 years in bottle prior to release. On the occasion of my visit in May 2010, the three Reserva Especials already in bottle and awaiting release were tasted side by side. They are identified (for the purposes of this review only) as the 2013 Release, the 2012 Release, and the 2011 Release. I was not told what vintages are in each bottling but it actually makes little difference. The Reserva Especials are blended to a house style designed to reflect Vega Sicilia at its very best. The vagaries of vintage (as reflected in Unico) are blended away leaving a wine that is, in my opinion, better than any of the single vintage wines with the possible exception of the 1942. Importer: Christopher Cannan, Europvin; www.europvin.com
NV Vega Sicilia 2011 Release Unico Reserva Especial
A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Ribera Del Duero, Castilla Leon, Spain,
Review by
WA # , #189 (Jun 2010)
Rating: 99
Drink -
Cost:
The 2011 Release is rich, spicy, and complex. It has impeccable balance and another 20 years of life. It simply does not get any better. When you consider that the Reserva Especial sells for less than half the price of a Bordeaux First Growth (and you don’t have to wait for 20 years for it to be approachable) it is one of the great bargains in world-class wine. Bodegas Vega Sicilia remains a benchmark for the world’s great red wines. The Valbuena bottling receives 3 years in barrel and 2 years in bottle prior to release. On the occasion of my visit in May 2010, the three Reserva Especials already in bottle and awaiting release were tasted side by side. They are identified (for the purposes of this review only) as the 2013 Release, the 2012 Release, and the 2011 Release. I was not told what vintages are in each bottling but it actually makes little difference. The Reserva Especials are blended to a house style designed to reflect Vega Sicilia at its very best. The vagaries of vintage (as reflected in Unico) are blended away leaving a wine that is, in my opinion, better than any of the single vintage wines with the possible exception of the 1942. (Price not yet determined) Importer: Christopher Cannan, Europvin; www.europvin.com
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