Estamos trazendo para nossos leitores os vinhos italianos que foram pontuados com 98 pontos ou mais por Robert Parker e a Wine Advocate.
O interessante é que a lista irá incluir não só os vinhos e suas pontuações, como também as resenhas que foram escritas para cada um dos vinhos.
Os preços listados estão em dólares e são os preços médios praticados nos Estados Unidos. Um dos pontos curiosos em analisar uma lista destas é que, mesmo tendo vinhos de mais de 1.000 dólares (com o Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda 1989), a lista possui também vinhos que, com pomposos 98 pontos, custam menos de 100 dólares. Dois exemplos são o Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato, também da safra de 1989 e o Villa Sant' Anna Vin Santo 1988, ambos custando 45 dólares.
Nesta semana ainda iremos trazer os melhores vinhos de outros países, sempre procurando uma lista de no máximo 50 vinhos em média e incluindo todos eles em um só post!
In Vino Veritas!
Gustavo Kauffman
Os Melhores Vinhos Italianos de Todos os Tempos por Robert Parker
1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Rionda , Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #187 (Feb 2010)
Rating: 100
Drink 2010 - 2030
Cost: $1450
I suspect over the years I have had more than my fair share of the 1989 Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda. After all, there were only 2,838 bottles produced. Still, I never fail to be utterly seduced by this transcendental, emotionally moving Barolo. The Rionda isn’t Giacosa’s most powerful wine, rather it is a Barolo built on elegance. Impossibly fine, silky tannins frame subtle, yet incredibly vivid aromatics that meld into a gorgeous core of violets, roses, tar, licorice and minerals. Still incredibly fresh, this towering Barolo has another 20+ years of life ahead. It remains Giacosa’s foremost masterpiece and one of the greatest wines ever made. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030. Bruno Giacosa’s wines are well represented in my personal cellar, which was the source for the vast majority of these bottles. I have had the good fortune to taste all of Giacosa’s 1989s and 1990s from multiple sources over the last year, and therefore can report that these notes are representative of what readers can expect from well-stored bottles. I consider 1989 and 1990 – along with 1978, 1982, 1996, 2001, 2004 and 2007 – to be among Giacosa’s finest vintages. The bevy of Red Label Riservas in this article says it all. In 1989 and 1990 Giacosa produced an immense number of legendary wines. In fact, he is one of the very few producers who did exceptionally well in both years. In general the 1989s are a touch more layered and nuanced, while the 1990s are impressive for their massive concentration. If forced to state a preference, I would say 1990 gets the nod for its consistency from top to bottom, even if few of those wines reach the sublime heights of the very finest 1989s. Still, these are relatively small distinctions at this high level. Readers who have the opportunity to taste any of these wines should not think twice. By the late 1980s Giacosa had begun to move towards an enlightened traditional style with the introduction of the French oak casks he now uses exclusively. Fermentations and barrel aging, however, remained very much within the framework of traditional winemaking, resulting in a combination that was electric. Readers will note that many of Giacosa’s Red Label Riservas during this time were made in small lots (such as the 1990 Asili and 1989 Collina Rionda), and that for practical purposes those wines were aged in medium-size casks rather than large casks.
1985 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia
A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Tuscany, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #E2002 (Feb 1997)
Rating: 100
Drink 2000 - 2025
Cost: $1880-$3850
I had this wine in a blind tasting - I have had it frequently, and have never failed to give it a perfect rating. At the same time, I have often mis-identified it in blind tastings as the 1986 Mouton-Rothschild. In this tasting, the wine was phenomenal. The color remains an opaque purple. The bouquet is beginning to develop secondary aromas of cedar and truffles to go along with its intense cassis, black-raspberry, blackberry, tarry, toasty personality. Exceptionally dense, concentrated, and full-bodied, this wine possesses layers of concentrated fruit that are beautifully balanced by the wine's sweet tannin and well-integrated acidity. The finish lasts for nearly a minute. A monumental Cabernet Sauvignon, it is one of the greatest wines made this century. Tasting after tasting continues to confirm this wine's surreal level of quality. Despite being 11 years old, it remains youthful. My best guess for when it will reach full maturity is between 2000-2025. What a wine!
2000 Tua Rita Redigaffi Vino da Tavola
A Merlot Dry Red Table wine from Tuscany, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #144 (Dec 2002)
Rating: 100
Drink 2007 - 2018
Cost: $650-$670
The prodigious, unfined/unfiltered, inky/purple-colored 2000 Redigaffi (a 400-case 100% Merlot cuvee) is a wine of extraordinary distinction and intensity. It boasts a fabulous perfume of melted licorice mixed with high quality espresso roast, black cherry and currant liqueur, white flowers, and toast. Boasting great intensity, glorious ripeness, formidable purity, and a finish that lasts nearly a minute, this is the stuff of dreams! Its dry extract number is about as high as one will find in a dry red wine. Additionally, its 14.8% alcohol is incredibly well-concealed beneath the wealth of glycerin and fruit. A brilliant achievement! Kudos to winemaker Stefano Chioccioli and proprietors Rita Tua and Vegilio Bisti. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2018. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (201) 445-0620 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1997 Angelo Gaja Sori Tildin
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Sori , Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #135 (Jun 2001)
Rating: 99
Drink 2001 - 2031
Cost: $325-$700
The awesome 1997 Sori Tilden (10,000 bottles produced) is a candidate for perfection. The saturated purple color is followed by a dense, full-bodied wine possessing extraordinary vibrancy for such a heavyweight, muscular Nebbiolo. It offers a super-sweet entry, a boatload of glycerin, and notes of earth, licorice, cedar, blackberry and cherry liqueur, and a touch of blueberries. Extremely full, gorgeously pure, with a seamless texture, this spectacular 1997 will enjoy three decades of cellaring. A genius for sure, Angelo Gaja can not be faulted for what he puts in the bottle. This work of art is worth every cent it will fetch. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000
1997 Angelo Gaja Sperss
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #135 (Jun 2001)
Rating: 99
Drink 2004 - 2036
Cost: $450-$485
A virtually perfect effort is the 1997 Sperss (30,000 bottles), which represents the essence of truffles, earth, and black cherries in its striking aromatics and multidimensional, opulent, full-bodied palate. The acidity seems low because of the huge glycerin levels and prodigious concentration of fruit, but I suspect it is normal in the scheme of oenological measurement. This profound wine requires 3-4 years of cellaring, and should age well for 30-35 years. A genius for sure, Angelo Gaja can not be faulted for what he puts in the bottle. This work of art is worth every cent it will fetch. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000
2004 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva le Rocche del Falletto
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from , Castiglione Falletto, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #185 (Oct 2009)
Rating: 99+
Drink 2024 - 2044
Cost: $320-$500
The 2004 Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto is off the charts. Sweet roses, menthol, tar, licorice and minerals come together in a sensual, elegant style that recalls Giacosa’s legendary 1989 Riserva Collina Rionda, a wine many observers (this one included) place at the top of the hierarchy of all-time legendary Barolos. Ripe, sensual, and utterly spellbinding, the 2004 Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto offers superb elegance and pedigree. At this stage the wine remains surprisingly accessible. Readers will want to taste the 2004 Rocche as soon as possible as it will almost certainly head for a long period of dormancy in the near future. This magical Barolo will likely merit a perfect score in the future. The 2004 Rocche is the last wine Giacosa and former longtime oenologist Dante Scaglione produced together from start to finish and it is an appropriate bookend to a wonderful partnership that yielded so many profound wines. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2044. Bruno Giacosa created quite a stir when he announced this spring that he would not bottle any of his 2006 Barolos and Barbarescos. While I wasn’t surprised he would pass on bottling a few wines – as early as spring 2007 Giacosa did not present the 2006 Barbaresco Santo Stefano and Barolo Croera in my annual barrel tastings – the decision to skip an entire vintage prompted a back and forth volley of polemics that is such an integral part of the Italian way of life. Clearly Giacosa had a difficult emotional relationship with these wines from the start, as they were made in the year he suffered a stroke and was absent from the winery for long periods of time. Perhaps Giacosa simply wanted to cancel the entire year from his memory. Or maybe it is a case where the vintage quality in Giacosa’s vineyards and later of the wines themselves in the cellar did not live up to his exacting standards. Given the emotional weight attached to this year I am not sure anyone – even Giacosa himself – will fully understand all of the circumstances behind the decision not to bottle the wines. After having tasted Giacosa’s 2006 Barolos and Barbarescos on numerous occasions I am convinced he has bottled lesser wines in the past. It is important to remember that virtually all of Piedmont’s top estates are essentially small, family-run wineries, and in that regard Giacosa is no exception. What seems pretty obvious at this point is that under normal circumstances without emotional duress, Giacosa and his team would have been better equipped to deal with the challenges of the harvest. Giacosa’s decision is more a reflection of the estate’s inability to deal with a difficult harvest (for understandable reasons) rather than a commentary on the intrinsic quality of the vintage itself. Giacosa may also have been prompted to skip an average year for his wines based on the exceptional juice he put into the bottle in the surrounding 2004, 2005 and 2007 vintages. Sadly, prices for the top bottles – the Red Label Barolo and Barbaresco Riservas in particular – continue to climb as collectors throughout the world recognize the quality of the wines. Still, at the risk of sounding out of touch with today’s economic environment, it is pretty clear that Giacosa’s finest wines remain relatively well-priced within the context of the world finest and most collectible wines. A recent bottle of the 1989 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano stood shoulder to shoulder with the 1989 Haut-Brion and Rousseau’s 1990 Chambertin....in fact, it may have even surpassed those icons! A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (201) 445-0620 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1978 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Speciale Villero
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Villero , Castiglione Falletto, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
In the Cellar # , #0109 (Jan 2009)
Rating: 99
Drink -
Cost:
Bruno Giacosa's 1978 Barolo Riserva Speciale Villero was simply monumental in its profoundness. A fabulously scented Barolo, it flowed with tons of dark fruit, sweet spices, leather and minerals on a layered, powerful frame. This was a sublime and totally breathtaking bottle that was among the finest examples of this legendary wine I have had the pleasure to drink. At a minimum this wine has another decade-plus of very fine drinking ahead of it. Bruno Giacosa's 1978 Barolo Riserva Speciale Villero remains a benchmark wine capable of holding its own with the finest wines from anywhere in the world. Readers fortunate to still have a few bottles from this stellar Giacosa vintage in the cellar should be thrilled.
1999 Castello dei Rampolla Vigna d'Alceo Vino da Tavola
A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Tuscany, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #137 (Oct 2001)
Rating: 99
Drink 2005 - 2025
Cost: $149-$280
The monumental 1999 Vigna d'Alceo is a 20,000-bottle cuvee of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Sangiovese aged in oak. It boasts an exceptionally provocative nose of liquid minerals, graphite, plums, creme de cassis, and cherry liqueur. It is fabulously concentrated yet remarkably light on its feet, with medium to full body, sweet tannin, and layer upon layer of flavor nuances. There is plenty of glycerin in this rich, but neither heavy nor overbearing effort. This is a thrilling tour de force! However, it requires cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025. Bravo! Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (212) 629-0200 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1996 Dal Forno Romano Amarone
A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #137 (Oct 2001)
Rating: 99
Drink 2004 - 2030
Cost: $566-$629
Dal Forno's virtually perfect 1996 is undoubtedly the finest Amarone I have ever tasted. Its inky black/purple color is accompanied by extraordinarily pure, graphite-infused, blackberry, plum, mineral, licorice, and espresso flavors. Despite its monumental intensity and richness, this wine is not heavy, somehow managing to conceal its 17.5% alcohol! As compelling an Italian wine as I have ever tasted, it should prove to be unbelievably long-lived. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2030. Regrettably, this wine is both hard to find and priced in the stratosphere. However, anyone who has tasted a Dal Forno offering realizes this is the reference point for prodigious Valpolicella and Amarone. It possesses off the chart levels of complexity, richness, aging potential, and reveals a style totally unlike anything else produced in the region. Decent quantities are exported, although most stays in Italy to be gobbled up by the local cognoscenti and the country's finest restaurants. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (212) 629-0200 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1997 Dal Forno Romano Amarone
A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #144 (Dec 2002)
Rating: 99
Drink 2002 - 2022
Cost: $370
The outrageous 1997 Amarone (17.5% alcohol) was aged 28 months in 100% new French oak. An inky/purple color is followed by sumptuous aromas of blueberry liqueur intermixed with truffle, graphite, camphor, and vanilla scents. This remarkable offering is immensely full-bodied and super-concentrated, with great purity, symmetry, and length. It is the stuff of legends! How long will it last? Who knows? Certainly this wine is capable of evolving for 15-20 years. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (212) 629-0200 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
2001 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Monfortino , Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #179 (Oct 2008)
Rating: 99
Drink 2016 - 2041
Cost: $425-$459
The 2001 Barolo Riserva Monfortino flows from the glass with stunning depth and purity. This seamless, elegant Barolo caresses the palate with incredible persistence as layers of aromas and flavors develop in the glass. Stylistically it is very much like the 2001 Cascina Francia, only with more intensity, depth and sheer volume. Monfortino has always had power to spare, but in 2001 it is also incredibly elegant, something that previous vintages have only acquired with significant bottle age. This is a towering, majestic Monfortino that will rightfully take its place among the very finest Monfortinos ever made. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2041. The biggest news at Giacomo Conterno over the last few months has been the estate’s recently completed acquisition of three hectares in the Cerretta vineyard in Serralunga. This is a significant development considering the winery’s history. Few estates in Italy are so closely identified with one piece of land as Giacomo Conterno. When Conterno purchased the Cascina Francia vineyard (a monopole) in 1974 it was a wheat field, although vines had been planted there in the past. There are no known pre-Conterno wines from Cascina Francia. Once the estate began making wines from Cascina Francia (first vintage 1978) they focused all of their attention on that vineyard and ceased using purchased fruit. Given all of the change in Piedmont over the last thirty-plus years it is hard to believe, but Conterno never acquired another parcel - until now. There are two hectares of Nebbiolo and one of Barbera which will become new, separate bottlings. Roberto Conterno told me it will be two to three years before the vineyard responds to the work he is doing today. Unfortunately 2008 has been a challenging growing season characterized by abundant rain in the spring and summer, along with hail, which damaged a portion of the fruit, so total production from Cerretta is expected to be small. Still, it will be fascinating to see what Conterno comes up with from their new vineyards in Cerretta. As for the new releases, they are drop-dead gorgeous. While some of these wines are increasingly difficult to afford, at the end of the day it is hard to begrudge the commercial success of one of Italy’s historic estates, which in many ways, has been a long time coming. The late Giovanni Conterno and his wife Yvonne made enormous sacrifices over the years. In 1974 they paid a princely sum for their Cascina Francia vineyard, then in the early 1980s they built their current winemaking facility, all while putting five children through school. Today Roberto Conterno makes wines that can hold their own with the very finest wines made anywhere in the world, and in that context theses Barolos remain fairly priced. This is an estate that has achieved its success the hard way, by earning it - not just over the years, but over the decades. Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (914) 244-0404 end_of_the_skype_highlighting, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (707) 996-4484 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
2006 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Masseto
A Merlot Dry Red Table wine from Tuscany, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #184 (Aug 2009)
Rating: 99
Drink 2016 - 2031
Cost: $550-$1239
I can still remember nearly falling out of my chair the first time I tasted the 2006 Masseto (100% Merlot) from barrel. The wine is now in bottle, and it is every bit as monumental as I had hoped. The wine possesses staggering richness in a style that perfectly captures the essence of this great Tuscan vintage. Black cherries, flowers, licorice and sweet toasted oak are just some of the nuances that emerge from the 2006 Masseto. A wine of breathtaking depth, it also reveals superb clarity, freshness and vibrancy in a sumptuous, beautifully-balanced style. Simply put, the 2006 Masseto is a masterpiece from Tenuta dell’ Ornellaia. According to Agronomist/General Manager Leonardo Raspini the dryness of the vintage slowed down the maturation of the sugars, leaving the wine with an unusually high level of acidity, and therefore freshness, considering its overall ripeness. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. This set of new 2006s from Tenuta dell’Ornellaia leaves me looking for words that can adequately capture the pure magic and sheer profoundness the property has achieved in this important, hallmark vintage. I will try with one word: Monumental. The Ornellaia team led by Oenologist Axel Heinz and Agronomist/General Manager Leonardo Raspini has done a fabulous job with these wines, which have never failed to literally send shivers down my spine on the multiple occasions I have tasted them. At this stage the 2007 Serre Nuove, Ornellaia and Masseto are shaping up to be ripe, relatively early-drinking wines without the stuffing or sheer vibrancy of the 2006s. I recently had the privilege of revisiting 17 vintages of Ornellaia (all from magnum) spanning vintages 1985-2006 at an incredible tasting that will be covered in an in-depth article on www.erobertparker.com in the coming months. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (707) 256-2700 end_of_the_skype_highlighting;
1999 Tua Rita Redigaffi Vino da Tavola
A Merlot Dry Red Table wine from Tuscany, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #137 (Oct 2001)
Rating: 99
Drink 2001 - 2015
Cost: $388-$668
The 250-case cuvee of 100% Merlot, the 1999 Redigaffi has an astonishing 36 grams per liter of dry extract, which exceeds most top Pomerols in a great vintage! Unfined and unfiltered, it is as close to perfection as a wine can get. The color is a deep saturated blue/purple. The powerful, pure nose offers smoke, licorice, black cherry, and blackberries. It boasts awesome concentration, a fabulously dense, viscous mid-section, and a finish that lasts for nearly a minute. This is riveting juice. Anticipated maturity: now-2015. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (201) 445-0620 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1997 Angelo Gaja Sori San Lorenzo
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Sori , Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #135 (Jun 2001)
Rating: 98
Drink 2002 - 2030
Cost: $400-$719
Profound, the 1997 Sori San Lorenzo is an elegant, nuanced, and complex Gaja offering. It exhibits a striking perfume of lead pencil, roasted nuts, black fruits, spice box, leather, cedar, and Chinese black tea. Forward yet enormously constituted and rich, with an ethereal elegance underpinning its personality, the Sori Lorenzo displays a classic combination of power and finesse. Sadly, there are only 10,000 bottles. As this wine sat in the glass, notes of Japanese soy sauce made an appearance. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2030. A genius for sure, Angelo Gaja can not be faulted for what he puts in the bottle. This work of art is worth every cent it will fetch. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000
2004 Angelo Gaja Sori San Lorenzo
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Sori , Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #173 (Oct 2007)
Rating: 98
Drink 2014 - 2029
Cost: $326-$500
The 2004 Sori San Lorenzo is a drop-dead gorgeous wine. It presents awesome balance, especially in the way it marries power with elegance. This is a remarkably refined and understated Sori San Lorenzo, with never-ending layers of dark raspberries, licorice, grilled herbs and tar that flow from its sumptuous frame. A dark, brooding beauty, it will require several additional years of bottle at a minimum, but those with the patience to wait will be amply rewarded. In most vintages I prefer the Sori Tildin, but in 2004 Sori San Lorenzo has a very slight edge over its sibling. It may very well be the finest Sori San Lorenzo since the legendary 1971. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. Angelo Gaja and long-time oenologist Guido Rivella produced some of the most monumental wines of their long, storied partnership in 2004. Although I admire Gaja’s wines, especially for their consistency, I rarely find them this emotionally moving and utterly profound. The stable weather and cool, tempering evenings towards the end of the growing season allowed Gaja and Rivella to harvest fairly late in 2004. I remember passing by Gaja’s Barbaresco vineyards in October of that year and seeing fruit still waiting to be picked long after most producers had already brought the fruit in. Gaja’s 2004s from Barbaresco are especially breathtaking for their clarity and precision. The wines also seem less internationally-styled than in the past. Readers fortunate enough to possess the means to acquire these wines won’t want to miss them! The 2003s from the Barolo zones of La Morra and Serralunga are also strong efforts considering the vintage. “Historically in Piedmont there has been an inverse relationship between quality and quantity. Great vintages like 1961 and 1989 were characterized by low yields,” says Gaja. “2004 is one of those rare vintages like 1964 and 1990 where quality is high even though yields were generous as well. I think 2004 is a very elegant vintage. It is much easier to achieve opulence in the wines, but finesse is always much more elusive.” Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (847) 604 8900 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
2007 Angelo Gaja Sori San Lorenzo
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Sori , Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #187 (Feb 2010)
Rating: 98
Drink 2027 - 2047
Cost: $335
The 2007 Langhe Sori San Lorenzo is perhaps the most massive, virile wine in this lineup, and accordingly it will require the most time. Tannic and austere at the outset, the wine gradually opens to reveal staggering richness and depth in its dark fruit. The wine turns more elegant in the glass, revealing a myriad of black fruit, tar, licorice, spices and scorched earth in a dazzling display of class and elegance. This is one for the ages. Anticipated maturity: 2027-2047. My most recent visit to Gaja was quite an experience, as I tasted all of the estate’s 1989s, 1990s and 2007s. The 1989s and 1990s are reviewed in this issue’s What About Now feature. Angelo Gaja, always loquacious on a wide range of subjects, says virtually nothing about his wines, an approach I have increasingly come to appreciate in an era where so many producers are constantly in pitch mode. Then again, Gaja doesn’t really need to say anything, the wines speak for themselves. I tasted the 2007s at the winery in November 2009 and then again in New York in January 2010. Both times they were spectacular. Stylistically the 2007s remind me of the 1997s in terms of their opulence. Gaja’s wines are often immensely appealing when young – which is certainly the case with the 2007s – but then close down in bottle for a number of years, sometimes many years. My impression is that the Costa Russi and Conteisa are the most likely of these 2007s to offer the widest drinking windows throughout their lives with a minimum of cellaring. Fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place in steel. The wines then spend approximately one year in French oak and a second year in cask prior to being bottled. As has been the case for a number of years now, Gaja’s Langhe wines incorporate a small percentage of Barbera. On a final note, it’s great to see Gaja’s daughters Gaia and Rossana increasingly involved in the winery. They, and their younger brother Giovanni, have big shoes to fill, but couldn’t have asked for better teachers than Angelo and Lucia Gaja. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (847) 604 8900 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1989 Angelo Gaja Sori Tildin
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Sori , Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #187 (Feb 2010)
Rating: 98
Drink 2010 - 2030
Cost: $416-$519
The 1989 Barbaresco Sori Tildin emerges from the glass with silky tannins that frame a core of perfumed red fruit. The wine continues to show off endless layers of detail. Fruit, acidity and structure; it’s all there in the magical 1989 Sori Tildin. This is another immortal, totally seductive wine from Gaja. As always, the Sori Tildin is the most sculpted and nuanced of Gaja’s single-vineyard wines. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030. Angelo Gaja’s 1989s and 1990s are simply glorious. Gaja is frequently criticized, especially in Italy, a country that has an uneasy relationship with success of any kind. To be sure, Gaja likes to mix things up with views that are at times perhaps unnecessarily provocative. Prices have always been a point of contention among the estate’s detractors, as even Gaja’s father Giovanni sold his own wines at prices considered to be astronomical more than 50 years ago. At the end of the day, though, the only thing that counts is what is in the glass, and the simple truth is that these wines are utterly mind-blowing. Angelo Gaja had at least one big advantage vis-a-vis his neighbors. Gaja began working full-time at his family’s winery in 1969, and was followed a year later in 1970 by oenologist Guido Rivella. By the time 1989 came around Gaja and Rivella had been working together for nearly 20 years, and were perfectly positioned to make the most of these two historic harvests, which they certainly did. Gaja was so far ahead of his time that there are plenty of producers in Piedmont (and Italy) that still haven’t caught up to the groundbreaking wines he made 20 years ago. I have had many of Gaja’s 1989s and 1990s recently in less formal settings and have never been anything less than deeply impressed. Readers fortunate to own these bottles should be thrilled. For his 1989s and 1990s, Gaja carried out the malolactic fermentations in stainless steel and aged the wines for a year in French oak followed by a year in cask, an approach he employs today. Although Gaja’s wines are often flashy upon release, these bottles attest rather eloquently to the glacial aging that is the hallmark of the house style. One of the very few critiques I can make is that Sori San Lorenzo and Sperss were far less consistently profound twenty years ago than they are today. If there is one truism with Gaja, it is that one only needs to taste the Barbaresco to understand the quality of the vintage. When the Barbaresco is truly great (as it is in 1997, 2001, 2004 and 2007) all of the other wines will almost certainly be profound.
2007 Angelo Gaja Costa Russi
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Costa Russi , Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #187 (Feb 2010)
Rating: 98
Drink 2012 - 2037
Cost: $279-$350
The 2007 Langhe Costa Russi combines richness and focus to a degree that has seldom been seen here. This insanely beautiful wine boasts a breathtaking bouquet, explosive, generous fruit and an absolutely eternal finish. Layers of dark red fruit, minerals, flowers and spices saturate every corner of the palate as this mind-blowing Costa Russi struts its stuff. This is a towering effort from Angelo Gaja. The wine should be accessible fairly early and age for decades. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2037. My most recent visit to Gaja was quite an experience, as I tasted all of the estate’s 1989s, 1990s and 2007s. The 1989s and 1990s are reviewed in this issue’s What About Now feature. Angelo Gaja, always loquacious on a wide range of subjects, says virtually nothing about his wines, an approach I have increasingly come to appreciate in an era where so many producers are constantly in pitch mode. Then again, Gaja doesn’t really need to say anything, the wines speak for themselves. I tasted the 2007s at the winery in November 2009 and then again in New York in January 2010. Both times they were spectacular. Stylistically the 2007s remind me of the 1997s in terms of their opulence. Gaja’s wines are often immensely appealing when young – which is certainly the case with the 2007s – but then close down in bottle for a number of years, sometimes many years. My impression is that the Costa Russi and Conteisa are the most likely of these 2007s to offer the widest drinking windows throughout their lives with a minimum of cellaring. Fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place in steel. The wines then spend approximately one year in French oak and a second year in cask prior to being bottled. As has been the case for a number of years now, Gaja’s Langhe wines incorporate a small percentage of Barbera. On a final note, it’s great to see Gaja’s daughters Gaia and Rossana increasingly involved in the winery. They, and their younger brother Giovanni, have big shoes to fill, but couldn’t have asked for better teachers than Angelo and Lucia Gaja. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (847) 604 8900 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1997 Angelo Gaja Conteisa
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #135 (Jun 2001)
Rating: 98
Drink 2003 - 2030
Cost: $175
The 1997 Conteisa offers classic aromas of licorice, melted tar, black cherries, wet stones, and tobacco. It is a full-bodied, unctuously-textured wine of remarkable density and thickness. The tannin is high, but sweet. This brawny offering cuts an immense swath across the palate, but there are no hard edges and all the component parts are pure as well as well-integrated. There are 15,000 bottles of this spectacular wine. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2030. A genius for sure, Angelo Gaja can not be faulted for what he puts in the bottle. This work of art is worth every cent it will fetch. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000
1997 Avignonesi Vin Santo Occhio di Pernice
A Sangiovese Sweet Red Dessert wine from Vin Santo di Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #184 (Aug 2009)
Rating: 98
Drink 2009 - 2029
Cost: $210
There isn’t much to say about the 1997 Vin Santo di Montepulciano Occhio di Pernice except that it is nearly perfect. The wine flows from the bottle with an impenetrable brown coffee-like color. Sweet mocha, espresso, spice, licorice and worn-in leather aromas and flavors all meld together in a wine of unusual grace. As ususal, the style is opulent and totally full-throttle, yet the wine’s balance is superb, with all of the elements in the right place. This is a majestic Occhio di Pernice for the ages. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2029. The highlights among these new releases from Avignonesi, not surprisingly, are the Vin Santos, which in 1997 are nothing short of utterly profound. The wines actually benefit from being opened at least several hours prior to being served. As we went to press the Falvo family announced the sale of its remaining 10% holding in the winery to Virginie Saverys, director of Compagnie Maritime Belge, a Belgian shipping company. Ms. Saverys has been a shareholder since 2007. Based on the reds I have tasted here throughout the years there certainly seems to be an opportunity to increase quality in many of the wines. It is hard to imagine any proprietor in their right mind doing anything to touch the Vin Santos, as these remain some of the most profound wines in the world. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (707) 259-5405 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1990 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Falleto , Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #187 (Feb 2010)
Rating: 98
Drink 2010 - 2030
Cost: $595-$999
I remember paying what at the time seemed like a small fortune for bottles of Giacosa’s 1990 Barolo Riserva Falletto at Peck’s Enoteca in Milan. What I would give today to be able to buy more at the same tariff! The 1990 Barolo Riserva Falletto is one of Bruno Giacosa’s most towering wines. Period. Rich, layered and opulent, this mineral-driven, powerful Barolo covers every inch of the palate with masses of dark fruit, smoke, soy, plums, menthol, dried roses, pine and a host of other balsamic overtones. This vivid, kaleidoscopic Barolo is a reference-point wine readers won’t want to miss. As always, the Riserva Falletto is virile and authoritative in tone. Simply put, it its profound. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030. Bruno Giacosa’s wines are well represented in my personal cellar, which was the source for the vast majority of these bottles. I have had the good fortune to taste all of Giacosa’s 1989s and 1990s from multiple sources over the last year, and therefore can report that these notes are representative of what readers can expect from well-stored bottles. I consider 1989 and 1990 – along with 1978, 1982, 1996, 2001, 2004 and 2007 – to be among Giacosa’s finest vintages. The bevy of Red Label Riservas in this article says it all. In 1989 and 1990 Giacosa produced an immense number of legendary wines. In fact, he is one of the very few producers who did exceptionally well in both years. In general the 1989s are a touch more layered and nuanced, while the 1990s are impressive for their massive concentration. If forced to state a preference, I would say 1990 gets the nod for its consistency from top to bottom, even if few of those wines reach the sublime heights of the very finest 1989s. Still, these are relatively small distinctions at this high level. Readers who have the opportunity to taste any of these wines should not think twice. By the late 1980s Giacosa had begun to move towards an enlightened traditional style with the introduction of the French oak casks he now uses exclusively. Fermentations and barrel aging, however, remained very much within the framework of traditional winemaking, resulting in a combination that was electric. Readers will note that many of Giacosa’s Red Label Riservas during this time were made in small lots (such as the 1990 Asili and 1989 Collina Rionda), and that for practical purposes those wines were aged in medium-size casks rather than large casks.
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Falleto , Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #135 (Jun 2001)
Rating: 98
Drink 2010 - 2040
Cost: $338-$598
The 1996 Barolo Falletto de Serralunga (Red Label Riserva) possesses extraordinary presence and stature. Dark garnet/ruby-colored, it offers a tight but promising nose of road tar, scorched earth, truffles, blackberries, cherries, and espresso. This muscular, massive wine gave me chills. It is an exquisite, virtually perfect Barolo that requires a decade of cellaring, and should last for 30-40 years. I remember wishing I were twenty years younger when I tasted it prior to bottling ... I still feel the same way. Awesome! Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (201) 445-0620 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1978 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Speciale Collina Rionda
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Rionda , Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
In the Cellar # , #0805 (May 2008)
Rating: 98
Drink -
Cost:
A perfect bottle of the 1978 Barolo Riserva Speciale Collina Rionda brought this rapturous flight to a close in grand style. Still boasting an intense, deep color, the wine literally exploded from the glass with layers of dark fruit, tar, smoke and minerals, all supported by the tannic heft that is so characteristic of this legendary vintage and wine. I am not sure when this monumental, youthful Barolo will be truly ready to drink, but it has always been breathtaking, as it was again on this night.
2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Rabaja
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #167 (Oct 2006)
Rating: 98
Drink 2011 - 2026
Cost: $295
The 2001 Barbaresco Riserva Rabaja caps off this magical series of 2001 Barbarescos. It could not be more different from the Asili in its expression. It is a massively endowed, austere Barbaresco that fully captures the essence of the Rabaja vineyard in its explosive, deeply spiced balsamic nose, layers of sweet dark fruit and big, imposing structure. After 30 minutes in the glass, this magical wine is still opening up and my sense is that, even after having tasted this wine three times within the last year, it is still holding back a lot of its ultimate potential. With each successive tasting this wine continues to integrate its new oak (it was aged in a two-year old 55 hectoliter cask). The 2001 is a profound, breathtaking wine, although readers should note that stylistically it is a fairly contemporary wine from this estate. An Azienda Agricola Falletto di Bruno Giacosa bottling. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2026. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (201) 445-0620 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili (Red Label Riserva)
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Asili , Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #135 (Jun 2001)
Rating: 98
Drink 2006 - 2025
Cost: $299-$482
The utterly perfect, dense ruby/purple-colored 1996 Barbaresco Asili (Red Label Riserva) is a heroic offering brilliantly displaying both power and elegance. The bouquet develops incrementally, offering up aromas of black raspberries, cherries, cigar box, licorice, and leather. The wine impresses with its nuances as well as its extraordinarily rich, dense mid-palate, and a finish that lasts nearly a minute. There is huge tannin, but equally massive concentration, extract, and overall harmony. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2025. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (201) 445-0620 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
2004 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili (Red Label Riserva)
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Asili , Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #173 (Oct 2007)
Rating: 98
Drink 2010 - 2025
Cost: $247-$416
The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is even more compelling than the Rabaja. It floats on the palate with an ethereal core of sweet fruit that calls to mind a profound Musigny, but with the unmistakable structure of Nebbiolo. The perfumed purity of the fruit carries all the way through to the deeply satisfying, resonating finish. Made in a soft, seductive style, this remarkable wine is decidedly more approachable and easy to appreciate today than the Rabaja. Giacosa fans will have a great time discussing the merits of the Rabaja and the Asili in 2004, but to me they are virtually equally moving; Asili for its feminine gracefulness and Rabaja for its size and power. The Asili should prove more accessible at an earlier age. Bruno Giacosa says his 2004 Asili Riserva will turn out to be just like his 2000 Asili Riserva, the wine he still thinks is the best he’s ever made. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025. At a time in life when many of his colleagues have begun to slow down, Bruno Giacosa continues to make stunning wines of the highest level. Of course Giacosa has the good fortune of having the services of long-time oenologist Dante Scaglione, who is one of the most prodigiously talented winemakers in Italy. Although age has slowed Giacosa down somewhat, he was in fine form during the several hours we spent tasting his 2004, 2005 and 2006 Barolos and Barbarescos from barrel earlier this year. Simply put, 2004 will go down as one of the all-time great Giacosa vintages for both Barolo and Barbaresco. The Red Label Riservas are the Barbaresco Asili and the Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto, but his other wines aren't too far behind in terms of quality. From cask, the Barolos revealed slightly more promise, but that may be splitting hairs at this level. In 2004 Giacosa also fulfilled a long-standing dream by making his first Barolo from La Morra, the Barolo Croera, which will be released next year. The Croera is made from a newly-acquired vineyard in the Serradenari district of La Morra, an area best known for its Dolcettos. So far Giacosa's 2005s appear to be well-balanced, yet smaller-scaled wines that will likely drink well relatively early, while the 2006s are decidedly bigger and more powerful. I also noted a marked improvement in the quality of the Barbaresco Santo Stefano, which is the only single-vineyard wine the estate still makes from purchased fruit. Our tasting ended with the 1967 Barbaresco Riserva Asili. It was, in a word...sublime. The world will have to wait for the 2004 Barolos and Barbarescos to be released, in the meantime readers will find no shortage of compelling offerings among this set of new releases from Bruno Giacosa. The 2006 Dolcettos are excellent to outstanding, while the 2005 Barberas reflect the more modest qualities of that vintage. Giacosa is among the producers whose views on the 2003 vintage for Barolo and Barbaresco have changed dramatically in recent years. While many producers draw comparisons with 1947, Giacosa is one of the very few who can speak from personal experience. At first pessimistic, he initially thought he might not bottle any of his top wines but as time has passed his stance has changed, and today he is much more enthusiastic about the vintage. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (201) 445-0620 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
2007 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili (Red Label Riserva)
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Asili , Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #185 (Oct 2009)
Rating: 98
Drink 2019 - 2037
Cost: $400
The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is a massive, towering wine of majestic proportions. Everything comes together in the glass; expressive aromatics, striking fruit, powerful yet silky tannins and a long, impeccable finish. This complex, kaleidoscopic Barbaresco is a wine for the ages. The Riserva Asili is a surprisingly powerful wine from this vineyard. Readers will have to wait until 2011, when the wine is released, to taste this utterly profound Barbaresco. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2037. Bruno Giacosa created quite a stir when he announced this spring that he would not bottle any of his 2006 Barolos and Barbarescos. While I wasn’t surprised he would pass on bottling a few wines – as early as spring 2007 Giacosa did not present the 2006 Barbaresco Santo Stefano and Barolo Croera in my annual barrel tastings – the decision to skip an entire vintage prompted a back and forth volley of polemics that is such an integral part of the Italian way of life. Clearly Giacosa had a difficult emotional relationship with these wines from the start, as they were made in the year he suffered a stroke and was absent from the winery for long periods of time. Perhaps Giacosa simply wanted to cancel the entire year from his memory. Or maybe it is a case where the vintage quality in Giacosa’s vineyards and later of the wines themselves in the cellar did not live up to his exacting standards. Given the emotional weight attached to this year I am not sure anyone – even Giacosa himself – will fully understand all of the circumstances behind the decision not to bottle the wines. After having tasted Giacosa’s 2006 Barolos and Barbarescos on numerous occasions I am convinced he has bottled lesser wines in the past. It is important to remember that virtually all of Piedmont’s top estates are essentially small, family-run wineries, and in that regard Giacosa is no exception. What seems pretty obvious at this point is that under normal circumstances without emotional duress, Giacosa and his team would have been better equipped to deal with the challenges of the harvest. Giacosa’s decision is more a reflection of the estate’s inability to deal with a difficult harvest (for understandable reasons) rather than a commentary on the intrinsic quality of the vintage itself. Giacosa may also have been prompted to skip an average year for his wines based on the exceptional juice he put into the bottle in the surrounding 2004, 2005 and 2007 vintages. Sadly, prices for the top bottles – the Red Label Barolo and Barbaresco Riservas in particular – continue to climb as collectors throughout the world recognize the quality of the wines. Still, at the risk of sounding out of touch with today’s economic environment, it is pretty clear that Giacosa’s finest wines remain relatively well-priced within the context of the world finest and most collectible wines. A recent bottle of the 1989 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano stood shoulder to shoulder with the 1989 Haut-Brion and Rousseau’s 1990 Chambertin....in fact, it may have even surpassed those icons! A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (201) 445-0620 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1978 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Santo Stefano , Neive, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
In the Cellar # , #0805 (May 2008)
Rating: 98
Drink -
Cost:
The 1978 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano showed why this wine is justly regarded by many as one of the world's greatest wines. It too was deeply colored and revealed a massive core of dark fruit, with mentholated, balsamic nuances that gradually emerged from its towering frame. The 1978 remains a monumental achievement among Giacosa's most legendary wines. This bottle was breathtaking.
1989 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Santo Stefano , Neive, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #187 (Feb 2010)
Rating: 98
Drink 2010 - 2030
Cost: $600-$830
The 1989 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano explodes from the glass with an array of soy, spices, menthol, minerals and pine in a profound, kaleidoscopic expression of this great, great vineyard. Endowed with never-ending layers of perfumed fruit, the wine reveals mind-bending complexity and a profound personality that words will never do justice to. This remains one of Giacosa’s all-time monumental wines, and it simply must be experienced by anyone who seeks to understand the genius of Bruno Giacosa. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030. Bruno Giacosa’s wines are well represented in my personal cellar, which was the source for the vast majority of these bottles. I have had the good fortune to taste all of Giacosa’s 1989s and 1990s from multiple sources over the last year, and therefore can report that these notes are representative of what readers can expect from well-stored bottles. I consider 1989 and 1990 – along with 1978, 1982, 1996, 2001, 2004 and 2007 – to be among Giacosa’s finest vintages. The bevy of Red Label Riservas in this article says it all. In 1989 and 1990 Giacosa produced an immense number of legendary wines. In fact, he is one of the very few producers who did exceptionally well in both years. In general the 1989s are a touch more layered and nuanced, while the 1990s are impressive for their massive concentration. If forced to state a preference, I would say 1990 gets the nod for its consistency from top to bottom, even if few of those wines reach the sublime heights of the very finest 1989s. Still, these are relatively small distinctions at this high level. Readers who have the opportunity to taste any of these wines should not think twice. By the late 1980s Giacosa had begun to move towards an enlightened traditional style with the introduction of the French oak casks he now uses exclusively. Fermentations and barrel aging, however, remained very much within the framework of traditional winemaking, resulting in a combination that was electric. Readers will note that many of Giacosa’s Red Label Riservas during this time were made in small lots (such as the 1990 Asili and 1989 Collina Rionda), and that for practical purposes those wines were aged in medium-size casks rather than large casks.
1982 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Rionda , Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
In the Cellar # , #0805 (May 2008)
Rating: 98
Drink -
Cost: $950
The 1982 Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda. It flowed onto the palate in a very classic expression of tar and roses, with an inner sweetness and perfume that is hard to capture with mere words. Sublime. Elegant. Extraordinary. None of those descriptions do this majestic, profound Barolo justice.
2000 Castello dei Rampolla Vigna d'Alceo Vino da Tavola
A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Tuscany, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #144 (Dec 2002)
Rating: 98
Drink 2004 - 2022
Cost: $129-$240
For whatever reason, the full-bodied 2000 Vigna d'Alceo was roaring the day I tasted it. A single vineyard blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Sangiovese, it tastes like the Sammarco on steroids. It boasts a deep purple color in addition to scents of espresso, sweet melted licorice, black currant jam, and toasty oak. There is great intensity, superb purity, and a finish that lingers for nearly a minute. This mythical wine requires 2-3 years of cellaring, and will age effortlessly for two decades. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (212) 629-0200 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1995 Dal Forno Romano Amarone
A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #130 (Aug 2000)
Rating: 98
Drink 2000 - 2020
Cost:
The opaque purple-colored 1995 Amarone is nearly perfect. It is reminiscent of super-concentrated blackberry liqueur infused with incense, smoke, and minerals. Full-bodied, dense, and chewy, this huge offering possesses remarkable purity and liveliness for its size and intensity. Amarone is an acquired taste, given its size as well as earthy, tarry characteristics. Certainly this wine reaches new levels of extract and richness, yet is dry, well-balanced, and, because of its extravagant richness, able to hide the whopping 16.5% alcohol it routinely possesses. This is the product of a true genius. It should drink well for a minimum of two decades. (Not yet released) Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (212) 629-0200 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1989 Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Mate
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Ginestra , Monforte, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #187 (Feb 2010)
Rating: 98
Drink 2010 - 2030
Cost:
The 1989 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Mate is another heady, almost intoxicating Barolo imbued with endless layers of fragrant, perfumed fruit. Stylistically, it is very similar to the Gavarini in this vintage, but with the darker fruit, additional weight and sheer muscle that defines this particular parcel in Ginestra, one of Barolo's grand cru sites. This explosive, kaleidoscopic Barolo is a marvelous achievement. Readers fortunate enough to own the 1989 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Mate can look forward to another 20 years of breathtaking drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030. By the time I arrived at Elio Grasso's beautiful winery in November 2009 I had tasted nearly all of Piedmont's benchmark 1989 and 1990 Barolos. Still, nothing could have prepared me for the wines I would encounter. Grasso's 1989 and 1990 Barolos are monumental, epic wines of the very highest level that easily stand side by side with the finest wines produced in both vintages. Massively concentrated and dense, the wines will easily last for another 20 years and quite likely longer. Elio Grasso came to making wine somewhat accidentally after the passing of his father. In fact, he didn't drink wine until his mid-30s! The family originally sold wine in bulk, but when that became too demanding, the estate turned to selling the fruit itself. Elio Grasso's first official vintage was 1979 although he also made a small amount wine in 1978 from fruit he was unable to sell. Curiously, Grasso describes himself as a poor taster of wines, and during this time he was assisted by Pietro Ballario, who had worked at Marchesi di Gresy in Barbaresco. It is quite evident Grasso is much more passionate about working in the vineyards than in the cellar. One of the things that is most remarkable about these wines is that they were made with no modern-day technology whatsoever. There was little or no green harvesting done in the vineyards. The wines were fermented in cement, with no temperature control and skin contact that lasted several months. The malolactic fermentations occurred naturally and the wines were aged in large oak barrels. According to Grasso, his 1989s and 1990s turned out well because the vineyards were old at the time (ranging from 50-70 years of age) and because his vineyard workers were very seasoned (as is the case with agriculture in the US, today most of the work in Piedmont's vineyards is done by migrant workers). When the comprehensive history of Piedmont is finally written, a very special place will need to be reserved for Elio Grasso.
1989 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Gavarini , Monforte, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #187 (Feb 2010)
Rating: 98
Drink 2010 - 2030
Cost:
The 1989 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera is one the most breathtaking Barolos produced in this historic year. The wine possesses jaw-dropping concentration and weight, with layers of sensual, perfumed fruit that caress the palate from start to finish in a stunning display of elegance married to power. With time in the glass the Chiniera reveals the candied, liqueur-like sweetness that is found in only a handful of the most profound 1989 Barolos, including Mascarello's Monprivato, Giacosa's Collina Rionda Riserva and Grasso's own Ginestra Vigna Casa Mate. Still marvelously fresh and intact, the wine should drink beautifully for another 20 years or so. This is a masterpiece from Elio Grasso. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030. By the time I arrived at Elio Grasso's beautiful winery in November 2009 I had tasted nearly all of Piedmont's benchmark 1989 and 1990 Barolos. Still, nothing could have prepared me for the wines I would encounter. Grasso's 1989 and 1990 Barolos are monumental, epic wines of the very highest level that easily stand side by side with the finest wines produced in both vintages. Massively concentrated and dense, the wines will easily last for another 20 years and quite likely longer. Elio Grasso came to making wine somewhat accidentally after the passing of his father. In fact, he didn't drink wine until his mid-30s! The family originally sold wine in bulk, but when that became too demanding, the estate turned to selling the fruit itself. Elio Grasso's first official vintage was 1979 although he also made a small amount wine in 1978 from fruit he was unable to sell. Curiously, Grasso describes himself as a poor taster of wines, and during this time he was assisted by Pietro Ballario, who had worked at Marchesi di Gresy in Barbaresco. It is quite evident Grasso is much more passionate about working in the vineyards than in the cellar. One of the things that is most remarkable about these wines is that they were made with no modern-day technology whatsoever. There was little or no green harvesting done in the vineyards. The wines were fermented in cement, with no temperature control and skin contact that lasted several months. The malolactic fermentations occurred naturally and the wines were aged in large oak barrels. According to Grasso, his 1989s and 1990s turned out well because the vineyards were old at the time (ranging from 50-70 years of age) and because his vineyard workers were very seasoned (as is the case with agriculture in the US, today most of the work in Piedmont's vineyards is done by migrant workers). When the comprehensive history of Piedmont is finally written, a very special place will need to be reserved for Elio Grasso.
1978 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Monfortino , Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
In the Cellar # , #GX (Apr 2007)
Rating: 98
Drink 2005 - 2018
Cost: $1950
Conterno’s 1978 Monfortino remains one of the greatest Barolos ever made. It offers complex sensations of spices, cocoa, leather, licorice and menthol followed by layers of dark fruit that coat the palate with incredible persistence and length. This particular bottle seemed to show a more pronounced alcoholic component than have other recent bottles and although it is not the best bottle I have ever had, it still offered a great drinking experience. The 1978 Monfortino is a pure joy to drink today, and like the Monprivato, its aging potential appears to be virtually limitless. 98/drink now-2018
1964 Giacomo Conterno Barolo
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
In the Cellar # , #GX (Apr 2007)
Rating: 98
Drink -
Cost: $420-$530
Conterno’s 1964 Barolo presents an incredibly fresh, delicate and perfumed nose that continues seamlessly onto the palate, showing flavors of cherries and spices, and finishing with very sweet, soft tannins. I am at a loss to explain or describe this wine’s extraordinary youthfulness and sheer appeal. This wine is inviting and refreshing beyond words. My impression is of drinking a stunning wine at its absolute peak. Truly exceptional and unforgettable. Made from a blend of grapes the estate purchased from the Ginestra zone in Monforte, and Serralunga.
1997 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Monfortino , Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by Daniel Thomases
WA # , #160 (Aug 2005)
Rating: 98
Drink 2005 - 2030
Cost: $410
The 1997 Barolo Riserva Monfortino might be considered Giovanni Conterno’s monument, the greatest ever made in a series which goes back all the way to the 1950s. Enormously full and ripe, layered and textured with a richness which is almost indescribable, it truly has it all, the rose petals, tar, and licorice of the nose, the succulent density of the flavors, the endless finish which rises to a crescendo of sensual authority. Strangely enough, it is already approachable, even if it will undoubtedly be good for another quarter of a century. A last piece of good news is that the 1996 version of this wine, a work of art which seemed hewn out of granite, is finally beginning to soften, open up, and show its austere magnificence. Unlike the 1997, it is a wine I would not touch for another ten years but, as in the fable of the tortoise and the hare, it is entirely possible that the former beast will win the race. It’s something of an eerie feeling to walk into this cellar and not be greeted by Giovanni Conterno, who left us for the big vineyard in the sky at the end of 2004. Nothing to worry about, however, other than a keen sense of regret for the loss of this historic figure – his son Roberto, who worked with his father for over fifteen years, is fully in charge and produced spectacularly promising wines on his own in the 2004 vintage. The house is not particularly known for its Barbera, but it is easily one of the best in the traditional style – aged in casks, not barrels – on the market. Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (914) 244-0404 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1999 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Monfortino , Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #167 (Oct 2006)
Rating: 98
Drink 2014 - 2039
Cost: $329-$438
The 1999 Barolo Riserva Monfortino takes things to another level, hard as that may be to believe. It is deeply expressive in its aromatics, with breathtaking nuances of roses, menthol, spices and licorice that emerge from the glass, melding seamlessly onto the palate where complex layers of dark ripe fruit captivate the taster in an endless counterpoint of aromas, flavors and sensations that are hard to fully capture with mere words. Boasting much intensity and a more full-bodied structure than the 1998, with building tannins that define the eternal finish, it is wine to taste now and over the next 6-9 months before it begins to shut down. Sampled from both bottle and magnum, it is a remarkable wine in every way, and is sure to take a place among the great Monfortinos of all time. Those fortunate enough to own Monfortinos from the recent string of vintages dating back to 1995 as well as the equally promising 2000 and 2001 will no doubt enjoy debating the merits of these remarkable wines for years and decades to come. The 1999 Monfortino remains one of the greatest young wines I have ever tasted. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2039. Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (914) 244-0404 end_of_the_skype_highlighting and The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (707) 996-4484 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1971 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Monfortino , Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
eRobertParker.com # , #E2002 (Feb 2002)
Rating: 98
Drink 2002 - 2032
Cost:
The 1971 Barolo Monfortino flirts with perfection. Although not yet fully mature, it is hard to resist because of its blazingly intense nose of truffles, smoked herbs, earth, dried fruits, and spice. Massively constituted, with huge body, high tannin, extraordinary symmetry and purity, and mouth-staining extract levels, this is one of the greatest Barolo Monfortinos Conterno has ever produced. Is it ready to drink? Yes, but the wine has at least 20-30 years of life remaining. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (773) 334-6700 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1990 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Monfortino , Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #187 (Feb 2010)
Rating: 98
Drink 2020 - 2050
Cost: $795-$798
In this context, the 1990 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is almost too much. While the 1990 Cascina Francia delivers tons of pleasure, the 1990 Monfortino is still years away from offering its finest drinking. Still, this breathtaking Barolo is a pleasure to drink for its round fruit and long, powerful finish. It is exceptional in every way. Here the fruit is quite a bit darker in tonality than the Cascina Francia, with mesmerizing layers of mocha, leather, licorice and tobacco that develop in the glass and add further complexity. This is a marvelous effort from Conterno, but it will require the patience of a saint. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2050. Giovanni Conterno was one of the icons of his generation. These three Barolos are some of Conterno’s finest achievements in a distinguished career that was cut tragically short in 2004. Conterno was among the first growers to recognize that owning his own vineyards would ultimately allow for greater control over the quality of his fruit, a forward-thinking view at a time when Piedmont was dominated by a negociant culture of large bottlers who bought grapes and wine in bulk from smaller properties. In 1974 Conterno spent a princely sum to acquire Cascina Francia, the vineyard that would become the exclusive source for his Barolos. Cascina Francia, a high-altitude monopole in the village of Serralunga, is typically one of the last vineyards in the Barolo region to be harvested. Conterno’s epic Barolo Riserva Monfortino, arguably the single most important wine made in Italy, is a selection of plots within the vineyard. The exact source of the fruit can vary from year to year, but Monfortino is only made in the finest vintages. Both Conterno Barolos are vinified along rigorously traditional methods, with long fermentations and extended aging in oak that reaches seven years (sometimes more) for the Monfortino. These are reference-point bottles for readers who seek to understand the genius of one of Piedmont’s truly legendary producers.
1989 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Monprivato , Castiglione Falletto, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #187 (Feb 2010)
Rating: 98
Drink 2010 - 2025
Cost: $45
The 1989 Barolo Monprivato is staggering in its freshly cut roses, spices and hard candy. The wine possesses a level of inner sweetness and kaleidoscopic, multi-dimensional aromas that give me chills. This remarkably fresh, vibrant and chiseled Barolo continues to develop beautifully in the glass, revealing shade after shade of nuance. Mascarello's 1989 Barolo Monprivato remains one of the greatest wines ever made - from any region. Although the 1989 Monprivato is almost certain to last beyond my drinking window, it would be a shame to miss it while the fruit is so gorgeous. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025. I have had the privilege to drink - not just taste - Mascarello's 1989 and 1990 Barolo Monprivato on several occasions this year, but that notwithstanding I was frankly not at all prepared for the sensational showing of these bottles from proprietor Mauro Mascarello's cellar. In one of the greatest weeks of my wine-drinking life when I tasted nearly all of the icon wines from the 1989 and 1990 vintages in Piedmont, these two Monprivatos stood out for their sheer profoundness. Mauro Mascarello was among the early proponents of single-vineyard Barolos. His Barolo Monprivato, which boasts an impressive track record dating back to 1971, is one of the finest wines of the traditional school. The Monprivato vineyard, a near-monopole, often yields wines that achieve a brilliant combination of elegance and power matched by few sites in the world. For more on Mascarello readers may want to look at my notes from a recent vertical going back to 1967 posted on www.erobertparker.com
1990 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Monprivato , Castiglione Falletto, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #187 (Feb 2010)
Rating: 98
Drink 2010 - 2025
Cost: $45
The 1990 Barolo Monprivato is every bit as exceptional as the 1989. Rich, sweet and intense, the wine flows onto the palate with an opulent, caressing core of perfumed fruit. The 1990 is slightly more forward than the 1989, but for this typically long-lived wine that isn't such a bad thing. The 1990 is an especially opulent Monprivato that caresses the palate with endless layers of sweet, perfumed fruit. Some Monprivatos make you think?.this isn't one of them, it is pure pleasure from start to finish. A third bottle, tasted at the home of Robert Parker, conquered Barolo fan and novice alike, showing that the world's great wines are great precisely because they are able to bridge the gap between tasters with dramatically different palates. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025. I have had the privilege to drink - not just taste - Mascarello's 1989 and 1990 Barolo Monprivato on several occasions this year, but that notwithstanding I was frankly not at all prepared for the sensational showing of these bottles from proprietor Mauro Mascarello's cellar. In one of the greatest weeks of my wine-drinking life when I tasted nearly all of the icon wines from the 1989 and 1990 vintages in Piedmont, these two Monprivatos stood out for their sheer profoundness. Mauro Mascarello was among the early proponents of single-vineyard Barolos. His Barolo Monprivato, which boasts an impressive track record dating back to 1971, is one of the finest wines of the traditional school. The Monprivato vineyard, a near-monopole, often yields wines that achieve a brilliant combination of elegance and power matched by few sites in the world. For more on Mascarello readers may want to look at my notes from a recent vertical going back to 1967 posted on www.erobertparker.com
1997 Le Macchiole Messorio
A Merlot Dry Red Table wine from Tuscany, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #124 (Aug 1999)
Rating: 98
Drink 1999 - 2014
Cost: $100
This is a brilliant effort, rivaling the finest made not only in Italy, but also in France and the United States. Quantities are very limited for the Merlot from the Messorio vineyard. Approximately 40-50 cases will be available, but production is expected to increase slightly in future vintages. The purpose of writing about it is so Wine Advocate subscribers can get a head start as this will certainly become one of the great new wines of Italy. The awesome 1997 Merlot Messorio is truly prodigious. Black/purple-colored, it boasts an astonishingly rich nose of black raspberries, smoky new oak, dried herbs, and cedar. Chocolate, new saddle leather, and exhilarating levels of black fruits give this wine a luxurious, voluptuous texture. The finish lasts for nearly a minute! A wine-making tour de force that is already accessible given its expansive, open-knit texture, it should last for 12-15+ years. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (201) 445-0620 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1999 Le Macchiole Messorio
A Merlot Dry Red Table wine from Tuscany, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #144 (Dec 2002)
Rating: 98
Drink 2009 - 2019
Cost: $392-$492
The awesome, saturated purple-colored 1999 Messorio is a 100% Merlot aged 18 months in French oak prior to being bottled without filtration. The alcohol is a lofty 14.6% and the dry extract number is about the highest technically I have ever seen. The first vintage of this cuvee was 1995, so it is still an infant in terms of how well it develops in the bottle. However, the 1999 is packed and stacked. Aromas of cola, coffee, blackberries, and intense black cherry jam interspersed with mocha, licorice, and pain grille characteristics are followed by a massive wine with great precision, purity, concentration, and length. I don't want to get too carried away since only 4,000 bottles were produced, but this is a riveting example of what can be achieved on the Tuscan coastline. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (201) 445-0620 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
2006 Le Macchiole Messorio
A Merlot Dry Red Table wine from Tuscany, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #184 (Aug 2009)
Rating: 98
Drink 2014 - 2026
Cost: $299
The 2006 Messorio (Merlot) is off the charts. This extraordinary wine possesses a breathtaking combination of super-ripe fruit that has been achieved with remarkable freshness, vibrancy and clarity. There is superb transparency to the wine’s fruit, along with a sublime finish that lasts forever. Ideally a few years of cellaring are called for, but readers will have a hard time exercising such patience. This profound Messorio from proprietor Cinzia Merli and oenologist Luca D’Attoma left me speechless. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. Like many estates in Bolgheri, Le Macchiole has some beautiful wines that are coming into the market shortly. I visited the estate at the tail end of the 2006 harvest and already the early buzz in the air was palpable. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (212) 279-0799 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
2004 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Cannubi Boschis , Barolo, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #174 (Dec 2007)
Rating: 98
Drink 2012 - 2024
Cost: $199-$267
I was blown away by the breathtaking purity and definition of Sandrone’s 2004 Barolo Cannubi Boschis. A translucent dark ruby, this weightless yet sumptuous Barolo bursts from the glass with layers of dark ripe fruit that coat the palate with stunning grace and elegance. As it sits in the glass notes of licorice, tar and sweet toasted oak gradually emerge to complete this magnificent wine. I tasted this along with the 2001, which has shut down considerably since I last tasted it earlier this year. Today the 2004 is the more elegant wine although the 2001 looks to be more powerful and perhaps longer-lived. My rating of the 2001 (95) appears to have been conservative by about 2 points. One of the highlights of the vintage, Sandrone’s 2004 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Luciano Sandrone has been ecstatic about the quality of his 2004s since I first tasted the wines with him in the winter of that year. While 2004 is a superb vintage overall, Sandrone’s wines stand out, most notably for their extraordinary elegance. Importers: Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, NJ tel. (914) 769-3000 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (914) 769-3000 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
2004 Miani Colli Orientali del Friuli Merlot Buri
A Merlot Dry Red Table wine from Friuli, Italy,
Review by
In the Cellar # , #0909 (Sep 2009)
Rating: 98
Drink 2014 - 2026
Cost:
The 2004 Merlots, both tasted from magnum, represent the first vintage in which Pontoni bottled his wines from the villages of Rosazzo and Buttrio separately. The 2004 Merlot Buri, from vineyards in Buttrio, is even better. The Buri is a firm, powerful and massively structured wine bursting with dark fruit, licorice, graphite, leather and melted road tar in a sepia-toned expression that recalls a great Serralunga Barolo. The long, powerful finish lasts an eternity. Significant patience is required, but readers lucky enough to own this bottle are in for a thrilling drinking experience that will satisfy the intellectual and hedonistic senses to the maximum. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026.
2006 Miani Colli Orientali del Friuli Merlot Buri
A Merlot Dry Red Table wine from Friuli, Italy,
Review by
eRobertParker.com # , #185 (Oct 2009)
Rating: 98
Drink 2016 - 2031
Cost: $200
The 2006 Merlot Buri is a massive strapping wine imbued with truffles, melted road tar, blackberries, herbs and minerals. An authoritative, muscular wine, the Buri appears to be headed straight for a period of prolonged dormancy, but when it awakens it will be majestic. All three bottles I have tasted so far have been nothing short of profound. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Miani is one of the very finest wineries in the world. This tiny estate is located in Buttrio, a small town in the Colli Orientali appellation in Friuli that contains one of the finest – perhaps the finest – terroir for pedigreed, ageworthy wines in northeastern Italy. When I meet a grower with proprietor Enzo Pontoni’s passion for the vine I often wish every vintage could be a great vintage. If quality could be assigned based on sheer effort and dedication every vintage here would be profound. Pontoni releases just 7,500 - 8,000 bottles per year from 15 hectares of vineyards. Many of his plots are old-vine, terraced vineyards with superb exposures. I tasted Tocai, Merlot and Refosco from various parcels in August 2009 and came away deeply impressed by the sheer integrity of the fruit. Sadly, 2008 is a mixed bag at this illustrious property. The wet spring and ensuing bouts with peronospora left Pontoni with a difficult choice; either treat aggressively to try to save the year’s crop but risk the longer-term damage to the vineyards from excessive spraying, or let nature have her way in 2008, but preserve the health of the plants for 2009 and beyond. Ultimately Pontoni chose the latter, which meant renouncing a significant amount of fruit in 2008. There is no Ribolla, Chardonnay or Sauvignon Saurint and the production of reds will be tiny even by Pontoni’s standards. The 2008 whites are certainly pretty, but they lack the kaleidoscopic quality that informs the very finest vintages. The 2006 reds are without question the highlight of these new releases. Both Merlots are exceptional, which bodes quite well for the Rosso Calvari, a wine that will be released next year. Readers who want to learn more about Miani may want to check out my recent feature at www.erobertparker.com. Importer: Small Vineyards, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 933-6767 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (206) 933-6767 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
2006 Miani Calvari
A Refosco Dry Red Table wine from Friuli, Italy,
Review by
In the Cellar # , #0710 (Jul 2010)
Rating: 98
Drink 2018 - 2031
Cost:
The 2006 Calvari explodes on the palate with an array of plums, morello cherries, graphite, flowers and minerals. This towering, massive Calvari remains extraordinarily primary; in fact it tastes just like biting into a perfectly ripe grape from this old-vine site! A deep, baritone register develops in the glass as this profound wine gradually reveals its pedigree. The 2006 is the first vintage to be made with a gentler approach to extraction in vinification and slightly less time in oak (24 versus 30 months). Pontoni felt he had already proved he could show the muscle Refosco was capable of, so he set his sights on the next challenge, which was showing the elegance that could be achieved with diligence in the vineyards and cellar. He has succeeded, and then some – the 2006 Calvari is quite simply a tour de force that readers will not want to miss! Anticipated maturity: 2018-2031.
2004 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Sarmassa di Barolo
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Sarmassa , Barolo, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by
WA # , #174 (Dec 2007)
Rating: 98
Drink 2014 - 2024
Cost: $300-$523
As hard as it is to believe, the 2004 Barolo Sarmassa is even better than the Cerequio. It opens with compelling, seductive aromatics that lead to an array of perfumed plums, prunes and sweet red cherries in liqueur. Blessed with superb detail and delineation, this profound Barolo offers exceptional clarity, precision and endless layers of flavor, all framed by silky, perfectly ripe tannins that provide balance. This wine has always been stunning from barrel and cask, and it is equally breathtaking in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (201) 445-0620 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1997 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Riserva Vecchie Viti dei Capalot e delle Brunate
A Nebbiolo Dry Red Table wine from Capalot , La Morra, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #135 (Jun 2001)
Rating: 98
Drink 2007 - 2031
Cost: $300
The formidable 1997 Barolo Capalot della Brunate Riserva is a candidate for Barolo of the vintage. A massive wine, it exhibits aromas and flavors of vitamins, coffee, chocolate, black cherry liqueur, licorice, and pain grille, a terrific palate entry with oodles of glycerin as well as extract, multiple flavor layers, and sweet tannin in the 60-second finish. There is plenty of tannin lurking beneath the surface, so it, ideally, needs to be aged for 6-7 years. It will age for three decades. This is a tour de force in winemaking! A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (201) 445-0620 end_of_the_skype_highlighting.
1997 San Giusto a Rentennano Vin San Giusto
A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Tuscany, Italy,
Review by Daniel Thomases
WA # , #164 (Apr 2006)
Rating: 98
Drink 2006 - 2036
Cost: $51
There’s not too much to be said about the 1997 Vin San Giusto, the estate’s former Vin Santo, other than the fact that it has to be tasted to be believed. Staggeringly viscous, sweet, and rich, it is loaded with sensations of tropical fruit and hazelnuts, raisins and dried apricots, vanilla and caramel. Almost too packed to swallow, it appears to be destined for 30 years of fabulous drinking. Importer: A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (516) 677-9300 end_of_the_skype_highlighting, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (773) 334-6700 end_of_the_skype_highlighting, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (415) 492-9411 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1997 San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo Vino da Tavola
A Sangiovese Dry Red Table wine from Tuscany, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #130 (Aug 2000)
Rating: 98
Drink 2000 - 2020
Cost: $221-$350
The dense ruby/purple-colored 1997 Percarlo is compelling. Enormous in aromas, flavors, and persistence on the palate, it exhibits profound levels of concentration as well as unbelievably dense, black currant, blackberry liqueur notes infused with new saddle leather, licorice, truffles, and toasty oak. Enormously thick and viscous, with low acidity, and mouthcoating levels of extract, this wine's tannin level is high, but largely obscured by the wealth of fruit, glycerin, and extract. It is an amazing accomplishment! Anticipated maturity: now-2020. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (516) 677-9300 end_of_the_skype_highlighting, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (773) 334-6700 end_of_the_skype_highlighting, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (415) 492-9411 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1990 Soldera (Case Basse) Brunello di Montalcino
A Sangiovese Grosso Dry Red Table wine from Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #104 (Apr 1996)
Rating: 98
Drink 1996 - 2016
Cost: $120
The 1990 Brunello di Montalcino from Case Basse is a modern day classic, as well as one of the greatest Brunellos I have ever tasted. It exhibits a deep ruby color, and a magnificent, rich, complex nose of roasted herbs, sweet, jammy, red and black fruits, cedar, spice, and oak. The wine is extremely powerful and full-bodied, with layers of highly concentrated, ripe fruit. Despite its massive size, it retains a gracefulness and sense of elegance. The velvety texture and layers of fruit conceal the wine's high tannin. It is approachable young, but should age effortlessly for 15-20 years. Kudos to proprietor Gianfranco Soldera. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (201) 445-0620 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1995 Soldera (Case Basse) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Intistieti
A Sangiovese Grosso Dry Red Table wine from Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #137 (Oct 2001)
Rating: 98
Drink 2004 - 2020
Cost: $280
The 1995 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Intistieti possesses prodigious aromatics, flavor nuances, and complexity. It reveals Asian spice notes in addition to an exotic, funky incense smell to the extraordinary ripe, surreal perfume. There is also a dry, layered, intriguing texture and a finish that lasts for nearly a minute. This wine seems to change every ten seconds or so, offering up provocative aromas and flavors. In short, I have never tasted anything quite like it. Kudos to the fanatical proprietor! I suspect the window of maturity will be 2004-2020+ Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (212) 629-0200 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
2001 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Masseto
A Merlot Dry Red Table wine from Tuscany, Italy,
Review by Daniel Thomases
WA # , #164 (Apr 2006)
Rating: 98
Drink 2006 - 2025
Cost: $829-$1900
The massive 2001 Masseto forms with Le Macchiole’s Messorio and Tua Rita’s Redigaffi a trio of world class Merlots in a ten square mile area where the variety virtually did not exist 15 years ago. The volume, richness, and sumptuousness are almost beyond description, as are the length and density of the flow and finish, but there is an underlying vein of purity and freshness which help maintain an impeccable balance. Drink: 2006-2025. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (707) 256-2700 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1997 Tommaso Bussola Recioto della Valpolicella TB
A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #137 (Oct 2001)
Rating: 98
Drink 2001 - 2031
Cost: $69
The 1997 Recioto della Valpolicella TB is a fabulously layered, slightly sweet offering with huge levels of glycerin, extract, and fruit. I am not a big fan of Recioto della Valpolicella as it is usually too sweet and heavy, but this example is riveting. Concentrated and pure, yet neither overwhelmingly heavy nor cloyingly sweet, it is great stuff. Moreover, it will last for three decades or more. Importer: Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (707) 996-4484 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1998 Tommaso Bussola Recioto della Valpolicella Tb
A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #144 (Dec 2002)
Rating: 98
Drink 2002 - 2017
Cost: $69
I am not sure I have ever tasted a better Recioto than Bussola's 1998 Recioto della Valpolicella TB. An explosive bouquet of raisins, figs, plums, truffle oil, smoke, and black fruits galore soars from the glass of this amazing wine. It possesses great richness, incredible ripeness, and fabulous balance as well as surprising sweetness counter-balanced by good structure and acidity. This is a majestic, potentially immortal Recioto that should drink well for 15+ years. Readers who have not yet discovered the wines of Tommaso Bussola need to move! Importer: Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (707) 996-4484 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
1988 Villa Sant' Anna Vin Santo
A Proprietary Blend Sweet White Dessert wine from Vin Santo di Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy,
Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #105 (Jun 1996)
Rating: 98
Drink -
Cost: $45
Believe it or not, I do taste Vin Santos every few years, but I have never had one quite so remarkable as this 1988 from Villa Sant' Anna. The dark amber color gives way to a penetrating smoked hazelnut/earthy-scented nose with aromas of truffles, soy, and leather. Offering an immense amount of flavor, this dry, sherry-like aperitif or dessert wine (whichever you prefer) is one of the most aromatic, complex, and provocative Vin Santos I have ever tasted. Like so many great wines, quantities are minuscule. Importer: Neal Rosenthal. His selections can be purchased at his retail shop in Manhattan (tel. 212-249-6650 and fax 212-744-3354). His address is P.O. Box 658, Route 83, Shekomeko, NY 12567; telephone 800-910-1990 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 800-910-1990 end_of_the_skype_highlighting.
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