terça-feira, 14 de setembro de 2010

Vinhos da Safra de 2000 com 100 Pontos por Robert Parker

O Enoleigos vai começar a trazer os vinhos considerados perfeitos pelo crítico de vinhos mais consagrado da atualidade.

O Advogado Robert M. Parker Jr. abandonou a carreira quando descobriu que possuía duas apuradas capacidades, a de degustar vinhos com incrível discernimento e a de se lembrar de cada um deles no futuro. Provando milhares de vinhos por ano, Parker tornou-se uma referência mundial que balança o mercado cada vez que emite sua opinião.

Durante esta semana, vamos listar os vinhos que Parker pontuou com 100 pontos nas Safras de 2000 até 2009 e, aos poucos, traremos outras informações. O custo dos vinhos está em dólares e tendo como base o mercado americano.

In Vino Veritas!

Gustavo Kauffman (GK)

Vinhos da Safra de 2000 com 100 Pontos por Robert Parker

2000 Chapoutier Ermitage Cuvee de l'Oree
A Marsanne Dry White Table wine from , Hermitage, Northern Rhone, Rhone, France,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #147 (Jun 2003)
Rating: 100
Drink 2003 - 2053
Cost: $200-$250

These wines usually flirt with perfection, which is the case with the 2000 Ermitage Cuvee de l’Oree. It boasts an amazing nose of licorice, minerals, acacia flowers, honeysuckle, and a hint of butter. Unctuously-textured and full-bodied, with great intensity and purity, yet remarkably light on its feet, it can be drunk over the next 3-4 years, then forgotten for a decade, after which it will last for 40-50 years. Year in and year out, one of the most profound white Hermitages produced is Chapoutier’s Cuvee de l’Oree. These are controversial dry whites because they tend to taste great young, go into a funky, nearly oxidized stage, and re-emerge at age 10-15 as full-blown, waxy, honeyed, dry wines with the potential to age for 20-50 years. This offering is typically made from exceedingly low yields of 12-15 hectoliters per hectare. Chapoutier has moved from small oak barrels to the 650-liter Burgundy barrels known as demi-muids, which are essentially the equivalent of three regular barrels. These uncompromising offerings from a young genius are not meant for consumers who want something to drink immediately. They are the essence of bio-dynamically farmed vineyard sites cropped incredibly low, given extended fermentations with indigenous yeasts, and rarely touched until they go into the bottle unfined and unfiltered. In most vintages, the wines are not even racked off their lees, which only adds to their natural style. These are truly remarkable wines, but for most readers, patience is the operative rule as they generally need a good 8-10 years to strut their stuff. Once moribund, over the last 12 years, this firm has become one of the reference points for nearly all the Rhone Valley appellations since the brash yet immensely talented Michel Chapoutier took over in the late eighties. The single vineyard offerings are as good as Rhone Valley wines can be. Moreover, Chapoutier continues to upgrade the quality of those wines offered in more significant quantities than the 500 or so cases each of the single vineyard offerings.

2000 Chapoutier Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc
A Marsanne Dry White Table wine from , Hermitage, Northern Rhone, Rhone, France,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #147 (Jun 2003)
Rating: 100
Drink 2010 - 2050
Cost: $350-$440

Last year I wrote that the 2000 Ermitage l’Ermite was one of the most amazing white Hermitages I had ever tasted. In bottle, it has confirmed all of its extraordinary character. This light gold-colored effort is pure liquid minerals. Notes of honey, tropical fruits, smoke, and licorice are offered in a phenomenally full-bodied, mineral-imbued masterpiece with a long, concentrated, chewy mid-palate, great purity as well as a 50+ second finish. This awesome dry white should prove to be nearly immortal. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2050. These uncompromising offerings from a young genius are not meant for consumers who want something to drink immediately. They are the essence of bio-dynamically farmed vineyard sites cropped incredibly low, given extended fermentations with indigenous yeasts, and rarely touched until they go into the bottle unfined and unfiltered. In most vintages, the wines are not even racked off their lees, which only adds to their natural style. These are truly remarkable wines, but for most readers, patience is the operative rule as they generally need a good 8-10 years to strut their stuff. Once moribund, over the last 12 years, this firm has become one of the reference points for nearly all the Rhone Valley appellations since the brash yet immensely talented Michel Chapoutier took over in the late eighties. The single vineyard offerings are as good as Rhone Valley wines can be. Moreover, Chapoutier continues to upgrade the quality of those wines offered in more significant quantities than the 500 or so cases each of the single vineyard offerings.

2000 Chateau Margaux
A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from Margaux, Bordeaux, France,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #189 (Jun 2010)
Rating: 100
Drink -
Cost: $1061-$2398

Absolutely compelling in two tastings of this vintage, the 2000 Margaux is composed of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot. The extraordinary seductiveness, complex aromatics, and purity it exhibits lead me to believe it has reached its window of full maturity. Medium-bodied, with layers of concentration, stunning blue, red, and black fruits intermixed with spring flowers, a subtle dosage of new oak, and a distinctive personality that is elegant while at the same time powerful and substantial, this is a multi-dimensional wine that was extremely approachable and drinkable in both tastings I had of it. The color remains a healthy, even opaque bluish/purple, but there is no reason to hesitate to drink it. It should evolve for another 30-40 years, so there is no hurry either.

2000 Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee da Capo
A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from , Chateauneuf du Pape, Southern Rhone, Rhone, France,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #151 (Feb 2004)
Rating: 100
Drink 2010 - 2030
Cost: $525-$650

The 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee da Capo is a monument to old vine Grenache as well as traditionally made Chateauneuf du Pape. Boasting a natural alcohol of 16%, this wine, which was bottled in spring, 2003 because its fermentation was extremely slow, has virtually everything you could ever want in a profound Chateauneuf du Pape. The color is inky/ruby/purple to the rim. The extraordinary nose reveals aromas of kirsch liqueur, new saddle leather, animal fur, Provencal herbs, spice box, licorice, and a salty sea breeze character. On the palate, the wine is enormous, with an unctuosity, thickness, and purity that must be tasted to be believed. Over 95% of this offering is old vine Grenache, and the rest a field blend of ancient vines. Representing the essence of Chateauneuf du Pape, it possesses so much concentration that it is easy to pose the question ... “where’s the tannin?” Analytically, it has very high levels of tannin, but the tannin is barely noticeable given the wine’s exaggerated wealth of richness and power. This is a modern day legend in the making, and despite its precociousness and ease in smelling and consuming, it will not hit its prime for another decade. It should last for 25-30 years, and take its place among some of the greatest Chateauneuf du Papes ever made. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030+

2000 La Clusiere
A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from St Emilion, Bordeaux, France,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #146 (Apr 2003)
Rating: 100
Drink 2008 - 2035
Cost: $164-$235

From this hillside 2.6-acre vineyard planted with 100% Merlot a veritable legend has emerged. The 2000 is undoubtedly the finest La Clusiere ever produced. A magnificent effort possessing off-the-chart extract levels as well as a remarkably intense palate impression, it tastes like the undistilled essence of a particular vineyard and wine type. The color is opaque blue/purple. The bouquet reveals dense blackberry, plum, and cassis aromas infused with minerals, licorice, espresso, and graphite. Full-bodied, massively-endowed, concentrated, and incredibly well-delineated, with high but velvety tannin, this is a magnificent wine. It was bottled, as are all the Perse wines, with neither fining nor filtration. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2035.

2000 La Clusiere
A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from St Emilion, Bordeaux, France,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #189 (Jun 2010)
Rating: 100
Drink 2010 - 2040
Cost: $1150-$1705

Now extinct, as this tiny 2.6-acre micro-vineyard was absorbed into Chateau Pavie, the 2000 La Clusiere (100% Merlot) was bestowed a perfect score seven years ago, and I see no reason to change that as it remains a monumental effort. Aromas of creme de cassis, blueberry liqueur, charcoal, licorice, and graphite are followed by a stunningly rich, full-bodied, elegant, pure, gentle giant of a wine. Approaching full maturity, it should age effortlessly for another 30+ years. Kudos to proprietor Gerard Perse.

2000 La Mission Haut Brion
A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux, France,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #189 (Jun 2010)
Rating: 100
Drink 2013 - 2063
Cost: $575-$1563

The 2000 La Mission Haut-Brion is certainly one of the candidates for the wine of the vintage. Its performance was off-the-charts in two separate tastings for this report. Deep blue/purple, with a nose of creme de cassis, floral scents, graphite, and subtle smoke, the wine is pure, deep, sumptuously textured, full-bodied, powerful (although certainly not at the power level of the amazing 2009). This wine certainly transcends its 13% natural alcohol and has the same level of concentration found in such great vintages of La Mission Haut-Brion as 1989, 1982, 1975, and of course, more recent efforts such as 2005, 2008, and 2009. Still young but beginning to display some secondary nuances, the wine has enormous layers of depth as well as an unctuous texture. Even though it is still quite youthful, I believe it will hit its prime in another 3-4 years and last 50 or more. It is certainly a wine that will likely jump dramatically in price once the price of the 2009 is released.

2000 Lafleur
A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from Pomerol, Bordeaux, France,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #189 (Jun 2010)
Rating: 100
Drink 2020 - 2060
Cost: $1659-$2290

An utterly awesome wine, the only problem with the 2000 Lafleur is that I indicated its maturity window would be 2012-2040+. Based on two tastings of it, I would now argue 2020-2060+. Yes, it is that backward, but it has extraordinary potential. Dense ruby/purple to the rim, this fabulously concentrated wine has a sweet nose of kirsch liqueur intermixed with licorice and subtle floral notes as well as a hint of truffle in the background. It is stacked and packed on the attack, with a multi-dimensional mid-palate of unbelievable intensity of concentration and richness, yet at the same time all this power is allied to striking elegance, purity, and depth. This is great Bordeaux, a profound Lafleur, and in about ten years, much of its magic should begin to be unleashed. If you can find it, it is an extraordinary wine, and as expensive as it was a decade ago, it will look cheap compared to prices for more recent vintages.

2000 Pavie
A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from St Emilion, Bordeaux, France,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #189 (Jun 2010)
Rating: 100
Drink 2012 - 2060
Cost: $430-$675

I tasted this wine twice during the 2000 horizontals, then I actually popped the cork and drank a half-bottle of it. This wine remains, for me, one of the compelling success stories for proprietor Gerard Perse. An extraordinary effort made from a blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon from the limestone soils that dominate this very distinctive terroir, the 2000 Pavie has moved out of the closed, dormant, broodingly backward stage into an adolescent period where one can see its extraordinary vibrancy, and great complexity as well as potential. It boasts an unctuous display of rich, cedar box-infused cassis fruit and liquid minerality. The tannins have sweetened, yet the wine has thirty years of longevity and potential evolution. A beautiful wine of great mass as well as elegance, it is good to see the extraordinary efforts that Gerard Perse and his team have made confirmed in this prodigious wine. A legend now ... a legend for the future. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2060.

2000 Petrus
A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from Pomerol, Bordeaux, France,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #189 (Jun 2010)
Rating: 100
Drink 2015 - 2065
Cost: $4250-$6500

A prodigious Petrus, this wine has that extra level of intensity and complexity that is monumental. The magic is clearly Petrus, and the 2000 will always be an interesting vintage to compare to another legend in the making, the 1998, or more recently, of course, the 2005, 2008, and 2009. Extremely full-bodied, with great fruit purity, an unmistakable note of underbrush, black truffle, intense black cherries, licorice, and mulberry, the wine seems to show no evidence of oak whatsoever. It has a sumptuous, unctuous texture, plenty of tannin, but also vibrancy and brightness. This is a remarkable wine that seems slightly more structured and massive than the 1998, which comes across as slightly more seamless, as if it were haute couture. This wine needs at least another 5-10 years of cellaring and should age for 50+ years.

2000 Sine Qua Non Suey TBA (100% Botrytised Roussanne)
A Roussanne Sweet White Dessert wine from Edna Valley , San Luis Obispo, Central Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #154 (Aug 2004)
Rating: 100
Drink -
Cost:

The 2000 Suey TBA, made from 100% botrytis infected Roussanne from the Alban Vineyard, was harvested berry by berry, spent 38.5 months in new oak, and at harvest, had residual sugar of nearly 59.7% ... an unheard of number. At bottling, there were 241 grams of sugar per liter and the finished alcohol was 12.5%. This looks to be the stuff of legends. Unfortunately, only 597 half bottles were produced. Will it age as gracefully as a 1921 Yquem or 1949 Climens? Who knows, but anyone who loves prodigious, individualistic wine and the nectars produced from meticulous, even obsessive harvesting and vinification concerns should make every effort to latch on to a bottle of this unbelievable elixir. It’s as good as it gets.

2000 Tua Rita Redigaffi Vino da Tavola
A Merlot Dry Red Table wine from Tuscany, Italy,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #144 (Dec 2002)
Rating: 100
Drink 2007 - 2018
Cost: $650-$1200

The prodigious, unfined/unfiltered, inky/purple-colored 2000 Redigaffi (a 400-case 100% Merlot cuvee) is a wine of extraordinary distinction and intensity. It boasts a fabulous perfume of melted licorice mixed with high quality espresso roast, black cherry and currant liqueur, white flowers, and toast. Boasting great intensity, glorious ripeness, formidable purity, and a finish that lasts nearly a minute, this is the stuff of dreams! Its dry extract number is about as high as one will find in a dry red wine. Additionally, its 14.8% alcohol is incredibly well-concealed beneath the wealth of glycerin and fruit. A brilliant achievement! Kudos to winemaker Stefano Chioccioli and proprietors Rita Tua and Vegilio Bisti. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2018.

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