segunda-feira, 29 de novembro de 2010

Os Melhores Vinhos Australianos de Todos os Tempos por Robert Parker



Este Robert Parker sempre me surpreendendo!

Lá fui eu realizar a pesquisa para trazer, aqui no Enoleigos, os melhores vinhos Australianos de todos os tempos pela Wine Advocate de Robert Parker. Meu filtro inicial é sempre de 98 pontos ou mais. Primeira surpresa! Quase 140 rótulos selecionados. Vamos então aos com 99 ou mais. Segunda surpresa! 62 vinhos. Vale lembrar que na lista da Espanha os de 99 pontos foram incluídos e a lista tinha 22 vinhos. Fui então pesquisar os “Vinhos Perfeitos”, ou seja, vinhos que levaram 100 pontos. E a Austrália se saiu muito bem, 19 vinhos e são estes que virão aqui para você querido leitor.

O produtor Chris Ringland se destaca nesta lista. Uma lista de vinhos caros mas que, como sempre, traz opções mais acessíveis como, por exemplo, o NV Trevor Jones Tokay Liqueur ou ainda o NV Trevor Jones Shiraz Liqueur, ambos por 90 dólares.

In Vino Veritas!

Gustavo Kauffman (GK)

Os Melhores Vinhos Australianos de Todos os Tempos por Robert Parker

1996 Chris Ringland (formerly Three Rivers) Shiraz
A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #135 (Jun 2001)
Rating: 100
Drink 2010 - 2040
Cost: $300

A colossal effort and very much in keeping with the style produced by the owner/winemaker Chris Ringland, the 1996 Shiraz (only 100 cases produced) is made from 90-year old vines. Following malolactic fermentation in cask, it spent 40 months in new oak prior to being bottled unfiltered. This is arguably the greatest Shiraz made in Australia, but sadly, there is little of it. This viscous, black/purple-colored wine represents the essence of both wine and Shiraz. With impeccable balance, uncanny as well as unreal levels of concentration, yet perfectly integrated tannin, acidity, alcohol, and wood, it is akin to a dry vintage port. Once past the explosive bouquet of creme de cassis, espresso, melted fudge, and graphite, this massive yet seamless wine offers layers of unctuously-textured flavors crammed with blackberries, smoke, charcoal, and currants. The finish lasts for 70+ seconds. The wine should prove to be immortal, lasting for 30-50 years, but who is going to wait that long to unleash the magic? This is compelling stuff! I just wish there were ten times the quantity produced. Kudos to Chris Ringland for this ultimate Australian blockbuster Shiraz. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040. Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (888) 472-5283


2001 Chris Ringland (formerly Three Rivers) Shiraz
A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia,

Review by
eRobertParker.com # , #186 (Dec 2009)
Rating: 100
Drink 2009 - 2019
Cost: $599

The 2001 Chris Ringland Shiraz offers a sensational bouquet of fruitcake, floral aromas, smoked meat, dried fruits, blueberry, and chocolate. Dense, voluptuous, and elegant, it will continue to evolve for another 8-10 years. Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (805) 278-9095


2002 Chris Ringland (formerly Three Rivers) Shiraz
A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia,

Review by
eRobertParker.com # , #186 (Dec 2009)
Rating: 100
Drink 2009 - 2027
Cost: $575-$750

The 2002 Chris Ringland Shiraz comes from a great vintage Ringland likens to 1991, 1996, and 1998. It is a more saturated color than the 2001 with a superb perfume of Asian spices, game, bacon, lavender, and blueberry compote. Plush, succulent, and powerful, it will age effortlessly for a decade and provide enjoyment through 2027. Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (805) 278-9095


2004 Chris Ringland (formerly Three Rivers) Shiraz
A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia,

Review by
WA # , #186 (Dec 2009)
Rating: 100
Drink -
Cost:

The 2004 Chris Ringland Shiraz is from another top vintage. Like the other wines, it spent 42 months in new French oak. Aromas of scorched earth, pencil lead, espresso, black currant and blueberry lead to a dense, complex, youthful wine with layer upon layer of succulent fruit, impeccable balance, and a decade of aging potential. Chris Ringland is a relatively modest bloke who gives most of the credit for his extraordinary wines to his nearly 100 year old vineyard. He now has 21 vintages under his belt the results of which place him with Marcel Guigal, Gerard Chave, Christophe Baron, Manfred Krankl, and Michel Chapoutier as the international grandmasters of Syrah/Shiraz. Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (805) 278-9095


1998 Chris Ringland (formerly Three Rivers) Shiraz
A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #155 (Oct 2004)
Rating: 100
Drink 2004 - 2024
Cost: $795

The Chris Ringland (formerly known as Three Rivers Shiraz), which is aged 42 months in 100% new French oak, and is rarely racked until bottling, represents an extraordinary expression of Barossa Shiraz. The perfect 1998, made from a single, 88-year-old vineyard cropped at one ton of fruit per acre, soaked up its wood component as if it is not even present. It boasts a sumptuous texture, great delineation, and a huge fragrance of bacon fat, blackberry liqueur, creme de cassis, toast, espresso roast, and hints of chocolate as well as pepper. Full-bodied yet remarkably well-delineated and fresh, this stunning wine is still a baby, but it promises to evolve for two decades or more. Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (888) 472-5283


1998 Greenock Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Roennfeldt Road
A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #155 (Oct 2004)
Rating: 100
Drink 2006 - 2024
Cost: $300

Since availability is extremely restricted, I’ll keep my notes brief for the limited production (approximately 60 cases), perfect 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Roennfeldt Road. It is a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon made from a 60-year-old vineyard that spent three years in neutral French oak. The wine possesses the concentration of the greatest classics ever produced in such Bordeaux vintages as 1945, 1947, 1959, 1961, and 1982. This is a full-bodied red with a finish that lasts well over 60 seconds. For its size and concentration, it is, surprisingly, not heavy, just super-endowed. The Cabernet Sauvignon needs 2-3 more years of cellaring, and should drink well for two decades. Unfortunately, quantities are extremely limited for this spectacular, world-class Australian red. Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (888) 472-5283


2002 Greenock Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Roennfeldt Road
A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia,

Review by
WA # , #181 (Feb 2009)
Rating: 100
Drink -
Cost: $563-$703

The two Roennfeldt Road cuvees, from one of Barossa’s most esteemed addresses, appear to be the finest since the legendary 1998s. The purple-colored 2002 Roennfeldt Road Cabernet Sauvignon offers up a soaring, already complex perfume of wood smoke, spice box, scorched earth, licorice, blackberry, and black currant. This is followed by a full-bodied, opulent, seamless Cabernet with gobs of spicy black fruits, an extra dimension that only old vines can provide, and a nearly endless finish. It would be fascinating to place it in a blind tasting with the 2002 vintages of Harlan, Colgin, Bryant, and Screaming Eagle. Greenock Creek Vineyard & Cellars, owned by Michael and Annabelle Waugh, remains one of South Australia’s iconic wineries. Start with a great terroir, add in old vine material and meticulous winemaking, and end with extraordinary results. Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (805) 278-9095


2001 Greenock Creek Shiraz Creek Block
A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #155 (Oct 2004)
Rating: 100
Drink -
Cost: $300

A perfect wine, the magnificent 2001 Shiraz Creek Block (240 cases) exhibits notes of burning embers, melted road tar, truffles, blackberries, and creme de cassis. With huge glycerin and a full-bodied, sensational finish, it represents the essence of wine. Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (888) 472-5283


2003 Greenock Creek Shiraz Creek Block
A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #167 (Oct 2006)
Rating: 100
Drink -
Cost: $300-$335

Pure perfection, the 2003 Shiraz Creek Block was fashioned from a 65-year-old vineyard that yielded one ton of fruit per acre. This full-bodied, multifaceted effort reveals tremendous notes of bacon fat interwoven with black raspberries, blackberries, cassis, pen ink, graphite, incense, and acacia flowers. The finish lasts well past a minute. Although not the most powerful Shiraz (15.5% alcohol), to my mind it is the best of this portfolio, and is superior to the limited production, super-duper expensive Roennfeldt cuvees. Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (888) 472-5283


1995 Greenock Creek Shiraz Roennfeldt Road
A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #183 (Jun 2009)
Rating: 100
Drink 2019 -
Cost:

A monumental effort, the 1995 Shiraz Roennfeldt Road was perfect when I tasted it in June, 2001, and this is the first time I have had it since. Made from 50-year-old vines, it is the most compelling wine I have tasted in 2009. Inky/purple-hued with notes of smoke, blueberry and blackberry liqueur, camphor, incense, and graphite, it is massive, but incredibly pure, with a multidimensional personality and a texture equivalent to a skyscraper. Yes, it’s big, but even the Euro/Francophiles at the tasting were blown away by this legend in the making. It still needs 10-15 years to reach full maturity, and is one of the most remarkable Shiraz wines made in the last 25 years. Bravo! This has always been one of my favorite Barossa wineries - great proprietors, tiny yields, old vines, and a hands-off style of winemaking. Of all the flights we tasted, these stood out as the most riveting wines of the entire tasting. The Shiraz cuvees were off the charts - every one still young and not close to full maturity. These are all high octane wines (14.5-16% alcohol), but any evidence of wood (little new oak is used here except for the limited production Roennfeldt Road cuvee) is completely buried under the aromatic complexity and richness.


1996 Greenock Creek Shiraz Roennfeldt Road
A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #143 (Oct 2002)
Rating: 100
Drink 2002 - 2018
Cost: $240

The perfect 1996 Shiraz Roennfeldt Road (15.2% alcohol) was aged three years in new American hogsheads (small foudres). This amazing achievement boasts an inky/black/purple color as well as a striking perfume of smoke, charcoal, blackberry liqueur, and a hint of toast. In the mouth, it is fabulously concentrated and tremendously pure, with layer upon layer of flavors that unfold incrementally. Mouth-staining, but not over the top, it would be hard to find a more concentrated wine anywhere in the world. Although the tannin is high, it is obscured by the wealth of fruit and glycerin. A tour de force in winemaking, it is probably worth the high cost of admission. Anticipated maturity: now-2018. Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (888) 472-5283


1998 Greenock Creek Shiraz Roennfeldt Road
A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #155 (Oct 2004)
Rating: 100
Drink -
Cost: $360-$400

The 1998 Shiraz Roennfeldt Road (235 cases) is made from yields of .75-1 ton of fruit per acre. The wine possesses the concentration of the greatest classics ever produced in such Bordeaux vintages as 1945, 1947, 1959, 1961, and 1982. This is a full-bodied red with a finish that lasts well over 60 seconds. For its size and concentration, it is, surprisingly, not heavy, just super-endowed. The Shiraz is accessible, but still primary. Unfortunately, quantities are extremely limited for this spectacular, world-class Australian red. Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (888) 472-5283


2002 Greenock Creek Shiraz Roennfeldt Road
A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia,

Review by
WA # , #181 (Feb 2009)
Rating: 100
Drink 2009 - 2040
Cost: $563-$703

The two Roennfeldt Road cuvees, from one of Barossa’s most esteemed addresses, appear to be the finest since the legendary 1998s The 2002 Roennfeldt Road Shiraz was aged in new French oak. Aromas of pain grille, truffle, mineral, violets, blackberry, and blueberry compote are ethereal and lead to a voluptuous, densely layered, succulent, complex Shiraz with 10-15 years of aging potential, This extraordinary effort should drink well through 2040. Greenock Creek Vineyard & Cellars, owned by Michael and Annabelle Waugh, remains one of South Australia’s iconic wineries. Start with a great terroir, add in old vine material and meticulous winemaking, and end with extraordinary results. Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (805) 278-9095


1976 Penfolds Grange
A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from South Australia, Australia,

Review by Robert Parker
eRobertParker.com # , #E2002 (Feb 2002)
Rating: 100
Drink 2004 - 2020
Cost:

Consistently one of the most awesome wines ever made at Grange, this blend of 89% Shiraz and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon (13.9% alcohol) was the first Australian wine to cost $20 upon release. I have had this wine six separate times, every time rating it between 96 and 100. It had a phenomenal showing at Penfolds' Magill estate. The color is an opaque purple, the wine massive, full-bodied, and to me, the quintessential Grange. Notes of blackberry liqueur intermixed with cassis, charcoal, new saddle leather, and underbrush resonate from the glass. Huge, thick, unctuously textured, with extraordinary concentration but perfect harmony among all of its elements, this is a prodigious Grange that is still not fully mature. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2020. A legend for sure! Imported by Southcorp Wines North America, Monterey, CA; tel. (408) 655-4848.


1908 Seppeltsfield Para Port Vintage Tawny
A Port Sweet Red Fortified wine from Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia,

Review by
WA # , #181 (Feb 2009)
Rating: 100
Drink -
Cost: $1800

The 1908 Para Port Vintage Tawny is an opaque brown/black color with aromas of fruit cake, dark chocolate, and burnt toffee that are still remarkably vibrant and room –filling. On the palate, it is viscous and weighty with a splendid balance of sweetness, acid, and alcohol. The rich flavors are complex as well as enhanced by a sense of elegance. The finish goes on and on and on. After doing the vertical tasting, any improvement with further cellaring (while possible) is not worth the wait. It is expensive but unique; how often do you get to drink history (the last year the Chicago Cubs won the World Series). Seppeltsfield’s extraordinary vintage Para Port is released annually when it is 100 years old. It is amazing to think that eons ago someone (presumably a member of the Seppelt family) decided that each year the winery would have a 100-year-old fortified Port to sell. Three 500-liter casks are produced (from a blend of Mataro, Shiraz, Grenache, and Cabernet Sauvignon), with two used for topping over the 100 year aging process, before the one remaining cask is bottled at age 100. In 2007 I had the privilege of visiting the winery for a vertical tasting with winemaker James Godfrey. We went back by decades beginning with 1957 and working back by tens to 1877. According to the winery, over the course of 100 years, the Beaume peaks and then stabilizes when the wine reaches 50 to 70 years of age. The acidity also peaks and stabilizes at around age 50. At age 100, the balance between sugar, acid, and alcohol is considered ideal and the wine is ready to be bottled and sold. As best I can tell, the wine is timeless; the 1877 was incredibly intense and concentrated with no end in sight. Importer: Negociants USA; Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-0993


1909 Seppeltsfield Para Port Vintage Tawny
A Port Sweet Red Fortified wine from Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia,

Review by
WA # , #186 (Dec 2009)
Rating: 100
Drink -
Cost: $1800

The 1909 Para Port Vintage Tawny is the “current” vintage of this unique elixir. At age 100, the balance between sugar, acid, and alcohol is considered ideal and the wine is then bottled, all one barrel of it. Brown/black in color, it exhibits a room-filling nose of ginger, toffee, dates, and dried fruits. Weighty on the palate with everything in near perfect harmony, the flavors are rich and complex and enhanced by a sense of elegance and a finish that does not quit. Importer: Negociants USA, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 295-0993


NV Seppeltsfield 104 Museum Oloroso
A Tempranillo Sweet Red Dessert wine from Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia,

Review by
In Asia # , #0509 (May 2009)
Rating: 100
Drink -
Cost:

Crafted from a Solera System of an average wine age of fifty years. 100% Palomino grape. Pale to medium amber colour with a greenish tinge. The nose provides an incredible array of spice, walnut, toffee and dried fruits aromas. The viscous, full bodied, unctuous plate is fairly dry with a great backbone of zingy, medium-high acidity. Very, very long finish incorporating many layers of walnut / hazelnut flavours, exotic spices and dried fig and persimmon. Incredible wine. Tasted February 2009.


NV Trevor Jones Tokay Liqueur
A Muscadelle Sweet White Dessert wine from Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #127 (Feb 2000)
Rating: 100
Drink -
Cost: $90

This wine is off the charts. The only thing to compare it to is some of the rare Muscat or Tokay produced by another Australian, William Chambers. It is phenomenally concentrated, amazingly thick and unctuous, yet multi-dimensional and totally compelling. The base material is 50 or more years of age. Production is limited to 30 cases of 375 ml bottles. This is the kind of spectacular fortified that is almost worth killing for to get a hold of a half bottle or two. Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (888) 472-5283


NV Trevor Jones Shiraz Liqueur
A Syrah Sweet Red Dessert wine from Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia,

Review by Robert Parker
WA # , #127 (Feb 2000)
Rating: 100
Drink -
Cost: $90

This wine is off the charts. The only thing to compare it to is some of the rare Muscat or Tokay produced by another Australian, William Chambers. It is phenomenally concentrated, amazingly thick and unctuous, yet multi-dimensional and totally compelling. The base material is 50 or more years of age. Production is limited to 30 cases of 375 ml bottles. This is the kind of spectacular fortified that is almost worth killing for to get a hold of a half bottle or two. Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (888) 472-5283

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