Robert Mondavi Private Selection Zinfandel 2008

Este é o segundo vinho do Robert Mondavi que escrevi aqui no Enoleigos. O primeiro foi o surpreendente Chardonnay.

No post sobre o chardonnay eu acabei não escrevendo uma, das muitas, frases que o Mondavi já escreveu que é: “A meal without wine, is like a day without sunshine!”. Quem se envereda neste mundo do vinho e, principalmente, das harmonizações enogastronômicas sabe que ele está coberto de razão!

Este é o primeiro vinho Zinfandel que escrevo por aqui. A espécie de uvas vermelhas  Zinfandel chegou à Califória em 1859 e tornou-se a fonte de ouro para os vinhos baratos. No primeiro boom do vinho californiano,  em 1890 o Zinfandel foi o vinho mais importante e ainda é a espécie de uva mais freqüente nos Estados Unidos. Também pode ser encontrado na Austrália e na África do Sul em pequenas quantidades. Desenvolveu-se bem nos EUA. É mais adequado à aridez, desenvolvendo-se durante alguns anos, semelhante ao Primitivo. Pode ser misturado ao Petite Sirah ou utilizado como única uva para a produção de vinhos.

Hoje a Zinfandel vem produzindo vinhos sensacionais, e ganhando diversos admiradores pelo mundo.

Uma curiosidade, que poucos sabem, é que a Zinfandel é, por muitas vezes, considerada idêntica a italiana Primitivo. A história se desenrola desde 1972, vejam:

Zinfandel was long considered "America's vine and wine", but when University of California, Davis (UCD) professor Austin Goheen visited Italy in 1967, he noticed how wine made from Primitivo reminded him of Zinfandel. Others also made the connection about that time. Primitivo was brought to California in 1968, and ampelographers declared it identical to Zinfandel in 1972. The first wine made from these California vines in 1975 also seemed identical to Zinfandel. In 1975, PhD student Wade Wolfe showed that the two varieties had identical isozyme fingerprints.

 Dr. Lamberti of Bari had suggested to Goheen in 1976 that Primitivo might be the Croatian variety Plavac Mali. By 1982 Goheen had confirmed that they were similar but not identical, probably by isozyme analysis. Some Croatians, however, became convinced that Plavac Mali was the same as Zinfandel, among them Croatian-born winemaker Mike Grgich. In 1991 Grgich and other producers came together as the Zinfandel Advocates and Producers (ZAP) with the objectives of promoting the varietal and wine, and supporting scientific research on Zinfandel. With this support, UCD professor Carole Meredith went to Croatia and collected over 150 samples of Plavac Mali[29] throughout Dalmatia, in collaboration with the University of Zagreb.

 In 1993, Meredith used a DNA fingerprinting technique to confirm that Primitivo and Zinfandel are clones of the same variety. Comparative field trials have found that "Primitivo selections were generally superior to those of Zinfandel, having earlier fruit maturity, similar or higher yield, and similar or lower bunch rot susceptibility." This is consistent with the theory that Primitivo was selected as an early-ripening clone of a Croatian grape.

 By 1998, Meredith's team realized that Plavac Mali was not Zinfandel but rather that one was the parent of the other. In 2000 they discovered that Primitivo/Zinfandel was one parent of Plavac Mali. The other parent of Plavac Mali was determined by Ivan Pejić and Edi Maletić (University of Zagreb) to be Dobričić, an ancient variety from the Adriatic island of Šolta.

 This discovery narrowed down the search to the central Dalmatian coastal strip and its offshore islands. Eventually a matching DNA fingerprint was found among the samples. The match came from a vine sampled in 2001 in the vineyard of Ivica Radunić in Kaštel Novi.[29] This Crljenak Kaštelanski ("Kaštela Red") appears to represent Primitivo/Zinfandel in its original home, although some genetic divergence may have occurred since their separation. Meredith now refers to the variety as "ZPC" - Zinfandel / Primitivo / Crljenak Kaštelanski.

 This Croatian vineyard contained just nine Crljenak Kaštelanski vines mixed with thousands of other vines. In 2002, additional vines known locally as Pribidrag were found in the Dalmatian coastal town of Omiš. Both clones are being propagated in California under the aegis of Ridge Vineyards, although virus infections have delayed their release.[34] The first Croatian ZPC wine was made by Edi Maletić in 2005.[35] Meanwhile, plantings of Primitivo have increased in California, where it seems to grow somewhat less vigorously than its sibling. Its wines are reputed to have more blackberry and spice flavors.

Vamos então ao que achei do vinho:

Visual: Garrafa simples e rolha artificial. Cor já puxando pro ameixa deixando transpassar luminosidade. Gotas rápidas, gordas e por toda a taça. O rótulo agrada.

Olfato: Fruta, muita fruta, com um pouco de álcool sobrando, o que é facilmente corrigido com um tempo respirando no decanter. Muita fruta vermelha e pitadas de floral, acredito que violeta (não sou muito bom com flores!). Um toque de especiarias envolve o nariz, em especial pimenta seca. Mais ao final um sutil tostado.

Paladar: Bom ataque inicial, também aqui repleto de fruta. Corpo médio. Taninos suaves, quase macios e retrogosto trazendo bastante adocicado. Acidez no ponto, final longo e muito gostoso.

O que Robert Mondavi fala sobre seu vinho:

Our 2008 Zinfandel is one of our best—a zesty, fruity red produced from Central Coast grapes. Right off the bat, the wine’s aromas reveal a deep core of rich, lively blackberry, blueberry, and black raspberry fruit with hints of enticing black pepper. In the mouth, the bright fruit flavors take on na expressive spice note that carries over the long, savory finish. Superbly balanced, with bright acidity and supple tannins, our 2007 Zinfandel will make a fine match for a wide range of hearty dishes, including pepperoni pizza, burgers, barbecued ribs and chicken, grilled spicy sausages, steaks slathered in onions and mushrooms, herb-marinated lamb chops, and zesty red-sauce pastas.

Winemaking: After gently crushing and destemming the grapes, we fermented the must in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks to maintain maximum fruit expression in the finished wine. Full malolactic fermentation gave the wine roundness and depth, while barrel-aging a component of the wine in new French and American oak for 12 months added complexity. Small percentages of Petite Sirah, Merlot, Petite Verdot, and Syrah were added to the final blend to lend softness and lush velvet character to the finished wine.

Blend Percentage: 83% Zinfandel, 6% Petite Sirah, 4% Merlot, 4% Petite Verdot, 3% Syrah.

Appellation: 100% Central Coast, including Santa Barbara and Monterey Counties

Ainda não existem resenhas da Wine Spectator e da Wine Advocate sobre este vinho.

Harmonizei com um suflê de queijo, macarrão ao sugo e filet de frango, que caiu bem pelo corpo médio do vinho e os taninos já macios. Um vinho com uma pequena complexidade, mas sem segredos. Descontraído, para ser bebido sem maiores pretensões mas que com certeza agradará a muitos!

In Vino Veritas!

Gustavo Kauffman (GK)

Robert Mondavi Private Selection Chardonnay 2008

Já fazia tempo que eu estava querendo abrir esta garrafa. Sábado, tempo gostoso, calor mas não aquele calor inusuportável, perfeito para um bom chardonnay no almoço e foi o que fiz!

O Mondavi é “o cara” quando o assunto são os vinhos dos Estados Unidos. Um verdadeiro poeta em tudo que faz. Uma das frases célebres dele é a “A meal without wine, is like a day without sunshine!”.

Robert Mondavi acredita que o caminho para uma vida mais graciosa conduz, através da apreciação do vinho, arte, alimentos e. Ele acreditava que o Napa Valley poderia ser o centro para esse estilo de vida, produzindo vinhos que pertencia na empresa dos grandes vinhos do mundo, e os vinhos que pertencia à mesa da família.

Criado em uma família tradicional italiana, Robert Mondavi entendeu que o compartilhar um bom vinho e boa comida com a família e amigos é um dos grandes prazeres da vida. Ele viu o potencial do então desconhecido Napa Valley para ser uma região vinícola eminente e centro cultural para a sua visão.

Em 1966, encorajado pelo entusiasmo sem limites, ele construiu o primeiro grande complexo vinícola no vale desde a proibição do consumo de álcool nos Estados Unidos: Robert Mondavi Winery. Desde então sua vinícola tem recebido milhares de convidados para compartilhar o amor de Robert de vinho, arte e alimentos

Através da inovação vinificação incansável, um olho intransigente de qualidade e fé inabalável nos vinhedos da Califórnia, Robert Mondavi percebeu que sua visão de criar uma coleção dos vinhos mais reconhecidos e mais amadas do mundo. Mais importante, ele percebeu que sua visão de Napa Valley como o centro do vinho em todo o mundo e da cultura de alimentos que enriqueceu a vida de milhões.

Podemos dizer, sem medo de errra, que Robert Mondavi foi o principal responsável pela revolução vinícola que ocorreu nos Estados Unidos. Só temos que agradecer a ele!

E a Chardonnay? A uva branca de maior prestígio no mundo! Leia mais sobre ela no artigo “Série Uvas – A Branca Chardonnay”.

Vamos então ao que achei deste vinho:

Visual: A garrafa é simples mas o rótulo é bem interessante com o recorte na parte superior. Rolha de material artificial, personalizada para a vinícola e com uma frase do Robert Mondavi. Na taça já mostra evolução em sua cor amarelo dourado.

Olfato: No nariz não é tão aberto mas exibe uma pequena complexidade. Nas frutas destaque para abacaxi, pêssego e pêra. Boa dose de amanteigado e um pouco de baunilha proveniente de sua passagem pelo carvalho. Ao fundo uma pequena pitada de pimenta.

Paladar: O ataque inicial na boca é bem mais intenso do que no nariz trazendo também mais complexidade ao palato. Excelente acidez e um final bastante persistente.

O que Robert Mondavi fala sobre seu Chardonnay:

Our Central Coast Chardonnay grapes enjoyed an extended period maturing on the vine, resulting in fruit with impressively concentrated flavors and richness.

BLEND PERCENTAGE: 100% Chardonnay

APPELLATION: 100% Central Coast, including 75% Monterey County

ALCOHOL: 13,5%

O link para as notas técnicas não estava funcionando.

A Wine Spectator e a Wine Advocate ainda não comentaram a linha Private Selecion da Robert Mondavi.

Acompanhou um raviole recheado com queijo brie ao molho de camarões, alho poró, tomate cereja e cream cheese. Harmonizou muito bem, valorizando e muito os sabores do prazo que, por sua vez, enriqueceu a experiência de degustar este vinho.

Um vinhoaço! Gostei bastante. A Safra 2010 está a venda na Wine por R$110,00. Achei este preço caro. O degustado veio no ClubeW e saiu na faixa de R$50,00.

In Vino Veritas!

Gustavo Kauffman (GK)

Estados Unidos – Chardonnay – Avaliação das Safras de 1996 a 2008.

Vamos falar então de mais uma região americana. Dos Estados Unidos já passaram por aqui a Cabernet Sauvignon em Safras Antigas e a mesma CS em Safras mais Atuais.

Hoje falaremos de uma cepa branca que também se deu muito bem em solo americano. A rainha das brancas, a Chardonnay! Não custa recordar que a Chardonnay já foi dissecada por aqui em nossa Série Uvas - A Branca Chardonnay.

A tabela abaixo trará as notas de quatro regiões distintas: Carneros, Napa, Santa Barbara e Sonoma.

Estados Unidos – Chardonnay – Avaliação das Safras de 1996 a 2008.

Vintage: 2008

Carneros: 84-87

Napa: 90-92

Santa Barbara: 85-87

Sonoma: 88-90

Drink Rec.: NYR

Description: The frosts and fires that plagued many growing areas didn't spoil the vintage, though quality is variable. Tight, concentrated wines in general

Vintage: 2007

Carneros: 96

Napa: 96

Santa Barbara: 89

Sonoma: 96

Drink Rec.: Drink

Description: Ripe, complex, balanced and ageworthy wines. Many brilliant bottles from all appellations

Vintage: 2006

Carneros: 90

Napa: 90

Santa Barbara: 82

Sonoma: 90

Drink Rec.: Drink

Description: Challenging harvest with mixed quality and fewer gems, but hardly a washout

Vintage: 2005

Carneros: 83

Napa: 89

Santa Barbara: 86

Sonoma: 95

Drink Rec.: Drink

Description: Restrained wines; trim and tight, with higher acidity

Vintage: 2004

Carneros: 92

Napa: 92

Santa Barbara: 89

Sonoma: 99

Drink Rec.: Drink

Description: Sonoma stars in a ripe, rich, opulent year that rivals 2002

Vintage: 2003

Carneros: 90

Napa: 89

Santa Barbara: 88

Sonoma: 88

Drink Rec.: Drink

Description: Leaner, crisper wines than in '02 due to a challenging season, but some gems, too

Vintage: 2002

Carneros: 96

Napa: 94

Santa Barbara: 92

Sonoma: 99

Drink Rec.: Drink

Description: Sensational, fleshy, opulent wines; near perfect in Sonoma, strong in Carneros and Napa

Vintage: 2001

Carneros: 93

Napa: 87

Santa Barbara: 89

Sonoma: 94

Drink Rec.: Drink

Description: Best in Carneros and Sonoma; concentrated, with firm acidity

Vintage: 2000

Carneros: 96

Napa: 87

Santa Barbara: 86

Sonoma: 89

Drink Rec.: Drink

Description: Carneros the clear star; wines elsewhere lack depth and completeness

Vintage: 1999

Carneros: 89

Napa: 87

Santa Barbara: 93

Sonoma: 94

Drink Rec.: Drink

Description: Sonoma and Santa Barbara are tops, with rich, complex wines

Vintage: 1998

Carneros: 84

Napa: 84

Santa Barbara: 83

Sonoma: 86

Drink Rec.: Drink

Description: Lean and austere statewide; highly variable

Vintage: 1997

Carneros: 98

Napa: 96

Santa Barbara: 96

Sonoma: 95

Drink Rec.: Drink

Description: Monumental year; very ripe, opulent and complex

Vintage: 1996

Carneros: 96

Napa: 95

Santa Barbara: 98

Sonoma: 95

Drink Rec.: Drink

Description: Rivals '97 in opulence and concentration; great finesse

A score range indicates preliminary analysis based on barrel samples and/or a limited sampling; many wines of the vintage not yet reviewed.

Vintage ratings: 95-100, classic; 90-94, outstanding; 85-89, very good; 80-84, good; 75-79, mediocre; 50-74, not recommended

Drinkability: "NYR" means the vintage has not yet been released; "drink" means most of the wines of the vintage are ready to drink; "hold" means most of the ageworthy wines have yet to fully mature; "past peak" means most of the wines are declining rather than improving.

SOURCE: WINE SPECTATOR

Estados Unidos – California / Cabernet Sauvignon Older Vintages – Avaliação das Safras de 1970 a 1984.

Seguindo com a série das Safras por região, vamos ao segundo post que fala sobre os Estados Unidos como anunciamos no primeiro que falou da uva CS na California.

In Vino Veritas!

Gustavo Kauffman

Estados Unidos – California / Cabernet Sauvignon Older Vintages – Avaliação das Safras de 1970 a 1984.

Vintage : 1984

Score: 94

Drink Rec: Drink

Description: Rich, fruity and opulent, though early maturing

Vintage : 1983

Score: 81

Drink Rec: Past peak

Description: Lean, tannic; uneven quality

Vintage : 1982

Score: 78

Drink Rec: Past peak

Description: Austere, lean and variable

Vintage : 1981

Score: 85

Drink Rec: Past peak

Description: Supple, charming

Vintage : 1980

Score: 84

Drink Rec: Past peak

Description: Ripe, firm; huge crop

Vintage : 1979

Score: 88

Drink Rec: Past peak

Description: Austere, balanced, supple and elegant

Vintage : 1978

Score: 93

Drink Rec: Past peak

Description: Ripe, rich and full-bodied wines

Vintage : 1977

Score: 83

Drink Rec: Past peak

Description: Small crop of balance wines, early maturing

Vintage : 1976

Score: 80

Drink Rec: Past peak

Description: Drought dried out grapes

Vintage : 1975

Score: 88

Drink Rec: Past peak

Description: Bold, ripe, complex; aged well at first

Vintage : 1974

Score: 96

Drink Rec: Past peak

Description: Monumental vintage; expressive, intense and full-blown

Vintage : 1973

Score: 86

Drink Rec: Past peak

Description: Elegant and subtle; well-proportioned

Vintage : 1972

Score: 78

Drink Rec: Past peak

Description: Hurt by harvest rains

Vintage : 1971

Score: 79

Drink Rec: Past peak

Description: Wet harvest resulted in diluted flavors

Vintage : 1970

Score: 97

Drink Rec: Past peak

Description: Long-lived wines from a small crop

Notable older vintages: 1958, 1951, 1941, 1936

A score range indicates preliminary analysis based on barrel samples and/or a limited sampling; many wines of the vintage not yet reviewed.

Vintage ratings: 95-100, classic; 90-94, outstanding; 85-89, very good; 80-84, good; 75-79, mediocre; 50-74, not recommended

Drinkability: "NYR" means the vintage has not yet been released; "drink" means most of the wines of the vintage are ready to drink; "hold" means most of the ageworthy wines have yet to fully mature; "past peak" means most of the wines are declining rather than improving.

SOURCE: WINE SPECTATOR

Estados Unidos – California / Cabernet Sauvignon – Avaliação das Safras de 1985 a 2009.

Depois de um tempo de ausência a Série sobre as Safras mundiais está de volta. Agora iremos trazer informações sobre as Safras dos Estados Unidos na seguinte ordem:

x California / Cabernet Sauvignon;

x California / Cabernet Older Vintages;

x California / Chardonnay;

x California / Merlot;

x California / Pinot Noir;

x California / Syrah;

x California / Zinfandel;

x Oregon;

x Washington.

Aqui vale ter atenção com a Safra de 2007 em Napa Valley que foi sensacional e que chegou no mercado há pouco tempo, já ganhando muitos prêmios.

Vamos então às Safras e suas pontuações.

In Vino Veritas!

Gustavo Kauffman (GK)

Estados Unidos – California / Cabernet Sauvignon – Avaliação das Safras de 1985 a 2009.

Vintage: 2009

Napa: 94-97

Sonoma: 85-88

Drink Rec: NYR

Descriptions: Fall rains split the harvest, but wines picked before or after the storms show tremendous promise

Vintage: 2008

Napa: 90-92

Sonoma: 84-86

Drink Rec: NYR

Descriptions: Small crop, with uneven ripening; but should be unique for its depth and concentration; the wines continue to impress

Vintage: 2007

Napa: 99

Sonoma: 87

Drink Rec: Hold

Descriptions: Textbook growing year; small crop, ideal ripening, with scores of amazing wines defined by enormous complexity and plush tannins

Vintage: 2006

Napa: 95

Sonoma: 86

Drink Rec: Drink or hold

Descriptions: A late, cool harvest produced dense, concentrated, structured and ageworthy wines

Vintage: 2005

Napa: 92

Sonoma: 85

Drink Rec: Drink or hold

Descriptions: Record-size crop surpassed expectations; may be mixed. Best are elegant and balanced, with ripeness achieved at lower alcohol levels. Avoided excessive ripeness. Should age for 10 to 15 years

Vintage: 2004

Napa: 95

Sonoma: 85

Drink Rec: Drink or hold

Descriptions: Small crop of exceptional quality. Napa wines are ripe, elegant, concentrated and harmonious, with deft balance and ripe tannins

Vintage: 2003

Napa: 85

Sonoma: 83

Drink Rec: Drink or hold

Descriptions: Uneven ripeness; austere and tannic in style. More like 2000 than 2001 or 2002

Vintage: 2002

Napa: 93

Sonoma: 83

Drink Rec: Drink or hold

Descriptions: Superb in Napa; dense and rich, rivaling 2001 for depth and complexity

Vintage: 2001

Napa: 93

Sonoma: 87

Drink Rec: Drink or hold

Descriptions: Excellent weather; many stunning wines but also a few disappointments

Vintage: 2000

Napa: 85

Sonoma: 81

Drink Rec: Drink or hold

Descriptions: Mixed and a bit green overall, but some stellar wines that may be overlooked and undervalued

Vintage: 1999

Napa: 97

Sonoma: 87

Drink Rec: Drink or hold

Descriptions: Tremendous depth, concentration and structure from a cool, moderate year; ageworthy

Vintage: 1998

Napa: 84

Sonoma: 82

Drink Rec: Drink

Descriptions: Cool, damp year with mostly green, herbal wines marked by gritty tannins; few memorable bottles

Vintage: 1997

Napa: 99

Sonoma: 90

Drink Rec: Drink or hold

Descriptions: Huge crop of ripe, opulent, fleshy, concentrated wines, from near-perfect weather; super in Sonoma, too

Vintage: 1996

Napa: 96

Sonoma: 88

Drink Rec: Drink or hold

Descriptions: A sleeper, with a remarkable number of compelling wines; warm year with fine concentration and depth

Vintage: 1995

Napa: 97

Sonoma: 86

Drink Rec: Drink or hold

Descriptions: Surprisingly fine year, with wines marked by great flavors, balance and structure

Vintage: 1994

Napa: 97

Sonoma: 88

Drink Rec: Drink

Descriptions: A showy year all around; ripe, complex and fleshy, with excellent depth

Vintage: 1993

Napa: 88

Sonoma: 88

Drink Rec: Drink

Descriptions: Just off the pace, with well-balanced, supple wines; a few stars

Vintage: 1992

Napa: 93

Sonoma: 86

Drink Rec: Drink

Descriptions: Fine growing season led to uniformly rich, fleshy, supple and balanced wines

Vintage: 1991

Napa: 91

Sonoma: 86

Drink Rec: Drink

Descriptions: Big crop, ripe and complex; a star early on, only to be eclipsed by others this decade

Vintage: 1990

Napa: 89

Sonoma: 86

Drink Rec: Drink

Descriptions: Small crop but many deeply concentrated wines that have aged well

Vintage: 1989

Napa: 85

Sonoma: 81

Drink Rec: Past peak

Descriptions: Big crop, cool year with rain at harvest; earthy, diluted flavors

Vintage: 1988

Napa: 83

Sonoma: 83

Drink Rec: Past peak

Descriptions: Small crop; simple wines

Vintage: 1987

Napa: 95

Sonoma: 87

Drink Rec: Drink

Descriptions: Small crop, early harvest; best wines mix ripe flavors with fine structure

Vintage: 1986

Napa: 96

Sonoma: 87

Drink Rec: Past peak

Descriptions: A big crop with intense, richly flavored wines

Vintage: 1985

Napa: 97

Sonoma: 87

Drink Rec: Drink

Descriptions: Ripe, rich and fleshy, with superb balance

Os Melhores Vinhos Americanos de Todos os Tempos por Robert Parker

Seguindo com nossas listas dos melhores vinhos mundiais, chegamos aos Estados Unidos e, de cara, tive uma baita surpresa! A lista dos vinhos pontuados com 100 pontos pela Wine Advocate, ou seja, os vinhos considerados perfeitos, é de nada mais, nada menos, do que 41 rótulos!

Como a minha idéia era fazer listas de, no máximo, 50 rótulos, já que estou trazendo também a resenha na íntegra de cada vinho, esta será a primeira lista da série que só terá vinhos com 100 pontos! Será que a França irá repetir o feito, visto que já falamos de Itália, Portugal e Espanha?

Mais uma vez vou destacar os vinhos de menor preço. Não podia imaginar que existiria um vinho com 100 pontos por RP que custasse 85 dólares! E existe! Estou falando do 2005 Sine Qua Non Mr K The Strawman Marsanne Vin de Paille e do 2004 Sine Qua Non Mr K The Strawman Vin de Paille (Semillon). É claro que a maior parte da lista é de vinhos muito caros como, por exemplo, o 2001 Harlan Estate Proprietary Red Wine, do Napa, que chega a custar mais de 2.000 dólares e, sempre lembrando, todos os preços aqui são para o mercado americano.

Uma dica para quem ainda não leu. As resenhas são muito interessantes!

In Vino Veritas!

Gustavo Kauffman (GK)

Os Melhores Vinhos Americanos de Todos os Tempos por Robert Parker

2002 Abreu Cabernet Sauvignon Thorevilos

A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #162 (Dec 2005)

Rating: 100

Drink 2009 - 2030

Cost: $649-$765

The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Thorevilos is a monumental wine that is as brilliant as wine can possibly be. The wine has an inky purple color to the rim and an extraordinarily sweet, expansive nose of blueberries, licorice, acacia flowers, and creme de cassis with a hint of sweet oak and licorice. Phenomenal concentration, extraordinary purity, a multi-layered, full-bodied palate, and a magnificent finish of close to a minute are the stuff of legends. This is a profoundly great Cabernet Sauvignon that can be drunk young or cellared for up to two decades or more. This is a prodigious effort from Napa’s top viticulturalist - a man who has had an enormously positive impact on the quality of the finest wines of Napa Valley. (Release date Fall 2006) Fax (707) 963-5104

1997 Abreu Cabernet Sauvignon Madrona Ranch

A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #132 (Dec 2000)

Rating: 100

Drink 2001 - 2031

Cost: $599-$785

As I reported last year, the 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Madrona Ranch is a perfect Cabernet Sauvignon. It has been in bottle for over a year, and this wine, like all the others, has easily soaked up its aging in 100% new Taransaud barrels. It is a sumptuous, unctuously-textured, fabulously concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon that hits all the sweet spots on the palate, and puts the olfactory senses into overdrive. The wine smells and tastes perfect. It is a compelling effort that one day will be considered part of a small group of elite California Cabernets that may be rewriting the definition of greatness in Cabernet Sauvignon. The 1997 boasts an opaque black/purple color as well as a gorgeous bouquet of roasted meats, scorched earth, blackberry, creme de cassis, minerals, and toast. The soaring aromatics are matched by a phenomenally intense, seamless palate, with full-bodied opulence, exquisite purity and symmetry, and a multidimensional finish that lasts for nearly a minute. This wine will be delicious when released next year, and will last for 25-30 years. It is a tour de force in winemaking. (Not yet released)

2006 Alban Vineyards Syrah Reva Alban Estate Vineyard

A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from Edna Valley , San Luis Obispo, Central Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #190 (Aug 2010)

Rating: 100

Drink -

Cost:

The 2006 Syrah Reva, coming from parcels of dark, volcanic soil, has off-the-chart richness and intensity. This thick, opaque-purple colored wine offers up notes of scorched earth, ground pepper, and blackberry liqueur intermixed with cassis, licorice, camphor, and tar. The wine is spectacular in every sense. Full-bodied and certainly not for wimps, this is a remarkably concentrated yet very nuanced and intense wine that should age for 20 more years. (Not yet released) Released this fall, after having spent 43 months in barrel. It is a great vintage for this winery, and fortunately there are decent quantities available, since 2006 was a far more abundant vintage than the three very tiny crop years of 2007, 2008, and 2009. The Syrahs of 2007 are again extraordinary. I am sure they will continue to become more concentrated and put on weight as they spend more time in barrel. The 2008s won’t be released for another few years, so I will only give some brief comments. To reiterate, there is no 2008 Seymour’s, and production is even smaller at Alban in 2008 than it was in 2007. I tasted through barrel samples of the 2009 Grenache, Mourvedre, and several Syrah cuvees, and this appears to be a flamboyant vintage with big fruit, lots of ripeness, heady alcohol, and a soft, luscious, up-front style. The 2009s will be even more flattering and charming than the 2008s. Rhone Ranger pioneer John Alban was one of the very first to recognize the potential of France’s Rhone Valley grapes planted on California’s Central Coast. He is essentially the lone wolf in the Edna Valley, so Alban sits at the summit of quality in this region. His wines are probably the most concentrated wines of all the major wines reviewed in this report, but there is much more to them than just pure brute concentration. These are wines with extraordinary aging potential. Going through the 1999s and 2000s that I had purchased from Alban, they are still incredibly young wines, and I think it’s safe to say, these are probably among the longest-lived Rhone Ranger wines being produced in California. The exception would be the white wines, which are best drunk in their exuberant youthfulness. Alban’s 2006s will be released this fall, after having spent 43 months in barrel. It is a great vintage for this winery, and fortunately there are decent quantities available, since 2006 was a far more abundant vintage than the three very tiny crop years of 2007, 2008, and 2009. The Syrahs of 2007 are again extraordinary. I am sure they will continue to become more concentrated and put on weight as they spend more time in barrel. The 2008s won’t be released for another few years, so I will only give some brief comments. To reiterate, there is no 2008 Seymour’s, and production is even smaller at Alban in 2008 than it was in 2007. I tasted through barrel samples of the 2009 Grenache, Mourvedre, and several Syrah cuvees, and this appears to be a flamboyant vintage with big fruit, lots of ripeness, heady alcohol, and a soft, luscious, up-front style. The 2009s will be even more flattering and charming than the 2008s. Tel. (805) 546-0305; Fax (805) 546-9879

2005 Alban Vineyards Syrah Lorraine Vineyard

A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from Edna Valley , San Luis Obispo, Central Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #172 (Aug 2007)

Rating: 100

Drink 2007 - 2022

Cost:

An absolutely monumental wine is the 2005 Syrah Lorraine Vineyard. The finest Syrah John Alban has yet produced, its inky/ruby/purple hue is accompanied by gorgeously sweet aromas of flowers, blueberries, black raspberries, blackberries, and subtle hints of smoky oak, bacon fat, and licorice. In the mouth, the wine is seamlessly constructed with fabulous fruit, brilliant concentration, and virtually perfect balance. Moreover, the finish lingers on the palate for over 60 seconds. It should drink beautifully for 15 or more years. Tel. (805) 546-0305; Fax (805) 546-9879

2006 Alban Vineyards Syrah Lorraine Vineyard

A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from Edna Valley , San Luis Obispo, Central Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #190 (Aug 2010)

Rating: 100

Drink -

Cost:

Named after his raven-haired Irish wife, the 2006 Syrah Lorraine, which comes from more sandy soils, is another prodigious effort. Like all of these wines, it is a remarkable wine of extraordinary intensity, with a stunning nose of blueberries, bacon fat, camphor, and even darker blackberries, along with unreal minerality and definition for a wine of this size and power. Full-bodied, with profound intensity of flavor as well as purity, this is another wine that spent nearly three and a half years in barrel prior to being bottled unfined and unfiltered. While there are 2,500 six-pack cases of the Reva, there will be only 350 six-packs of the Lorraine. (Not yet released) Released this fall, after having spent 43 months in barrel. It is a great vintage for this winery, and fortunately there are decent quantities available, since 2006 was a far more abundant vintage than the three very tiny crop years of 2007, 2008, and 2009. The Syrahs of 2007 are again extraordinary. I am sure they will continue to become more concentrated and put on weight as they spend more time in barrel. The 2008s won’t be released for another few years, so I will only give some brief comments. To reiterate, there is no 2008 Seymour’s, and production is even smaller at Alban in 2008 than it was in 2007. I tasted through barrel samples of the 2009 Grenache, Mourvedre, and several Syrah cuvees, and this appears to be a flamboyant vintage with big fruit, lots of ripeness, heady alcohol, and a soft, luscious, up-front style. The 2009s will be even more flattering and charming than the 2008s. Rhone Ranger pioneer John Alban was one of the very first to recognize the potential of France’s Rhone Valley grapes planted on California’s Central Coast. He is essentially the lone wolf in the Edna Valley, so Alban sits at the summit of quality in this region. His wines are probably the most concentrated wines of all the major wines reviewed in this report, but there is much more to them than just pure brute concentration. These are wines with extraordinary aging potential. Going through the 1999s and 2000s that I had purchased from Alban, they are still incredibly young wines, and I think it’s safe to say, these are probably among the longest-lived Rhone Ranger wines being produced in California. The exception would be the white wines, which are best drunk in their exuberant youthfulness. Alban’s 2006s will be released this fall, after having spent 43 months in barrel. It is a great vintage for this winery, and fortunately there are decent quantities available, since 2006 was a far more abundant vintage than the three very tiny crop years of 2007, 2008, and 2009. The Syrahs of 2007 are again extraordinary. I am sure they will continue to become more concentrated and put on weight as they spend more time in barrel. The 2008s won’t be released for another few years, so I will only give some brief comments. To reiterate, there is no 2008 Seymour’s, and production is even smaller at Alban in 2008 than it was in 2007. I tasted through barrel samples of the 2009 Grenache, Mourvedre, and several Syrah cuvees, and this appears to be a flamboyant vintage with big fruit, lots of ripeness, heady alcohol, and a soft, luscious, up-front style. The 2009s will be even more flattering and charming than the 2008s. Tel. (805) 546-0305; Fax (805) 546-9879

1997 Bryant Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #132 (Dec 2000)

Rating: 100

Drink 2000 - 2035

Cost: $1000-$1250

I have consumed several bottles of the 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Pritchard Hill. One of the most awesome young reds I have ever tasted, it possesses a black/purple color, a seamless texture, and freakishly high levels of intensity (cassis, black and blueberries infused with espresso, chocolate, and licorice) that are flawlessly presented in a full-bodied, massive yet elegant wine. Nothing is out of balance in this explosively rich, thick, highly-extracted Cabernet. A compelling, historic Cabernet Sauvignon, it will drink well for 30-35 years. It is not too much to suggest that in the future, Bryant's Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon might well be one of the wines that redefines greatness in Cabernet Sauvignon. Anticipated maturity: now-2035. Tel. (314) 231-8066; Fax (314) 231-4859

2002 Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon Tychson Hill Vineyard

A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #157 (Feb 2005)

Rating: 100

Drink 2009 - 2028

Cost: $895

The amazing 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Tychson Hill Vineyard (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) offers up a fabulously fragrant perfume of chocolate, barbecue smoke, creme de cassis, crushed rocks, and spring flowers. A wine of enormous concentration, multiple dimensions, layers of flavor, and a sensational one minute plus finish, its purity, harmony, and symmetry are prodigious. It should be at its peak between 2009-2028. (Release date 11/05) Tel. (707) 963-0999; Fax (707) 963-0996

2006 Colgin Ix Proprietary Red Estate

A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #180 (Dec 2008)

Rating: 100

Drink -

Cost: $400-$649

From the Pritchard Hill Vineyard, the 2006 IX Proprietary Red Estate is a blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. The good news is that there are 1,500 cases of this cuvee. It, too, reveals the noble sweetness of tannin, the extraordinary rich, intense mouthfeel, and sumptuous aromas of flowers, burning embers, blackberries, blueberries, spice box, and cedar. With extraordinary intensity, beautiful purity, a texture and flavors that build incrementally on the palate, and a significantly long finish, this is a perfect wine. Colgin is one of the reference points for just what heights mountain-grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux varietals, and more recently, Syrah, can achieve in Napa Valley. This beautiful estate and winery overlooking Lake Hennessey is owned by Joe Wender and his wife, Ann Colgin (equally renowned for her auctioneering skills), who are assisted by David Abreu, the well-known Bordeaux wine consultant, Dr. Alain Raynaud, and Allison Tauziet, who has skillfully replaced the brilliant Mark Aubert. As the scores and tasting notes suggest, this was an exceptional tasting. Colgin’s 2006s are among the finest wines produced in the vintage. Tel. (707) 963-0999; Fax (707) 963-0996

2007 Colgin IX Proprietary Red Estate

A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #186 (Dec 2009)

Rating: 100

Drink 2009 - 2034

Cost: $450-$500

The staggeringly rich, complex, harmonious, impeccably well-balanced 2007 IX Proprietary Red Estate (1,400 case produced) exhibits aromas of spring flowers, cedarwood, Asian spices, licorice, blueberries, and blackberries. A distinct liqueur of minerals buttresses the full-bodied, massive concentration, giving an overall impression of elegance, purity, and harmony. This is another seamless tour de force in winemaking. It should drink well for 25 or more years. Colgin’s 2007s, which include their final vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon from the Herb Lamb Vineyard, are all extraordinary, world-class wines. The change in winemakers from Mark Aubert to Allison Tauziet has gone very smoothly, and was made easier by the retention of the highly respected French wine consultant, Dr. Alain Raynaud, who told me that tasting Colgin’s 2007s gave him his greatest emotional high since he tasted the Chateau Pavie 2000! The 2008s will not be available until 2011, but it appears to be a very successful vintage for Colgin. The crop was tiny, and there were no frost issues, but several heat spikes did occur. Both Allison Tauziet and Alain Raynaud thought that the small berries provided powerful fruit intensity. Tel. (707) 963-0999; Fax (707) 963-0996

1992 Dalla Valle Maya Proprietary Red Wine

A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #101 (Oct 1995)

Rating: 100

Drink 1999 - 2019

Cost: $550-$1248

The awesome 1992 Maya is performing better than the 1991 did at a similar stage. It reveals a saturated purple color, as well as an intense fragrance of black-raspberries, cassis, flowers, and minerals. The wine possesses great fruit, superb density, wonderful purity and balance, and a compelling extra dimension both aromatically and texturally. It is destined to be one of California's legendary wines. Tel. (707) 944-2676

2007 Dana Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Lotus Vineyard

A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from St Helena , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #186 (Dec 2009)

Rating: 100

Drink 2011 - 2036

Cost: $274-$450

Utterly perfect is the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Lotus Vineyard. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon was aged in 100% new French oak. Although limited in availability (220 cases produced), it is a wine of awesome intensity boasting an opaque purple color in addition to a brilliant floral-scented bouquet displaying aromas of cassis, black raspberries, black fruit, and forest floor. Multilayered with terrific intensity as well as a long, nearly 60-second finish, this flawlessly assembled wine is a brilliant example of Cabernet Sauvignon from the St. Helena hillsides. Give it 2-5 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 25 years. Bravo! One can't say enough about what proprietor Hi Sang Lee and his son, both from Seoul, Korea, have accomplished at what used to be called the Livingston-Moffett Estate in Rutherford. They have dramatically transformed that estate into their Helms Vineyard, to which they have added the Lotus Vineyard from the St. Helena hillsides and the Hershey Vineyard on Howell Mountain. The consulting winemaker is Philippe Melka, and as the following notes attest, their 2007s are off the charts. Moreover, the 2008s look strong, although there is no Howell Mountain Cabernet since that vineyard was completely wiped out because of spring frosts. Tel. (707) 963-4365; Fax (707) 963-4975

2002 Harlan Estate Proprietary Red Wine

A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Oakville , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #162 (Dec 2005)

Rating: 100

Drink 2005 - 2035

Cost: $650-$1748

I believe the 2001 Harlan Estate and 2002 Harlan Estate’s 100 point scores represent the first time I have given perfect ratings to two successive wines produced in the New World. However, the styles of the two wines couldn’t be more different as each reflects its particular vintage. The 2001 is a classic, long-lived, backward wine with most of its potential concealed at present. On the other hand, it is impossible to resist the flamboyant, extroverted 2002 Harlan Estate’s charm, richness, and overall seductive personality. This profoundly complex wine exhibits notes of cedar, black currant liqueur, scorched earth, smoke, and graphite. Incredibly broad, sweet, full-bodied, opulent, and voluptuous, it literally has everything one could ever want in a great Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine. Already drinkable, it promises to evolve effortlessly for 25-30 years. This prodigious offering is worth mortgaging the farm! Bill Harlan, winemaker Bob Levy and consulting oenologist Michel Rolland have achieved spectacular results in an amazingly short time at this estate in the western hills overlooking the Oakville corridor. The introduction of a second wine, The Maiden, has allowed this team to ratchet up the level of the grand cru. From over 40 acres of vineyard, only 1,500-1,600 cases of Harlan Estate and 800 cases of The Maiden are produced. In order to keep quality at such an extraordinary level, I suspect production will never go much higher. (Release date 4/06) Tel. (707) 944-1441; Fax (707) 944-1444

1997 Harlan Estate Proprietary Red Wine

A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Oakville , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #132 (Dec 2000)

Rating: 100

Drink 2001 - 2030

Cost: $925-$2148

The 1997 Harlan Estate is one of the greatest Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines I have ever tasted. A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the rest Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this enormously-endowed, profoundly rich wine must be tasted to be believed. Opaque purple-colored, it boasts spectacular, soaring aromatics of vanilla, minerals, coffee, blackberries, licorice, and cassis. In the mouth, layer after layer unfold powerfully yet gently. Acidity, tannin, and alcohol are well-balanced by the wine's unreal richness and singular personality. The finish exceeds one minute. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2030. Tel. (707) 844-1441; fax (707) 944-1444

2001 Harlan Estate Proprietary Red Wine

A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Oakville , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #157 (Feb 2005)

Rating: 100

Drink 2009 - 2028

Cost: $769-$2000

Rivaling the 1994 and 1997, the 2001 Harlan Estate is a perfect wine for my palate. Tasted on four separate occasions, this offering, which spent 28 months in oak before being bottled unfined and unfiltered, is an extraordinary effort that comes across as a hypothetical blend of Mouton-Rothschild, La Mission-Haut-Brion, and Montrose. A synthesis in style between the more elegant, delineated, structured 1994, and the port-like, over-the-top, viscous 1997, this extraordinary 2001 was the “wine of my trip,” even though I had already had it from bottle several months earlier. An inky/purple color is accompanied by a stupendous bouquet of lead pencil shavings interwoven with coffee, new saddle leather, melted licorice, cedarwood, black currant liqueur, and violets. Explosive richness, a marvelous, full-bodied texture, and fabulous purity, concentration, complexity, and nobleness are the stuff of legends. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2028+. Tel. (707) 944-1441; Fax (707) 944-1444

1994 Harlan Estate Proprietary Red Wine

A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Oakville , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #114 (Dec 1997)

Rating: 100

Drink 2002 - 2027

Cost: $899-$2148

What can I say about the 1994? I have tasted the wine for three consecutive years, and each time it satisfied all of my requirements for perfection. The opaque purple color is followed by spectacular aromatics that soar from the glass, offering up celestial levels of black currants, minerals, smoked herbs, cedar wood, coffee, and pain grille. In the mouth, this seamless legend reveals full body, and exquisite layers of phenomenally pure and rich fruit, followed by a 40+ second finish. While accessible, the 1994 begs for another 5-7 years of cellaring. It should easily last for 30+ years. Every possible jagged edge - acidity, alcohol, tannin, and wood - is brilliantly intertwined in what seems like a diaphanous format. What is so extraordinary about this large-scaled wine, with its dazzling display of aromatics and prodigious flavors and depth, is that it offers no hint of heaviness or coarseness. Harlan's 1994 comes close to immortality in the glass. Much of this wine will be sold to the winery's mailing list customers. If you miss out on the 1994, try and get on the waiting list for future vintages. While perfect wines are few and far between, history has taught me that wineries with such lofty aspirations as Harlan Estate will continue to push the envelop of quality. Tel. (707) 944-1441; Fax (707) 944-1444

2007 Kapcsandy Family Winery Cabernet Sauvignon State Lane Vineyard

A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #186 (Dec 2009)

Rating: 100

Drink 2012 - 2042

Cost:

Absolutely riveting, and even better than I predicted last year is the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon - Grand Vin State Lane Vineyard. Made from 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, and the rest tiny dollops of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (400 cases produced), in two weeks of tastings, this wine stood out as one of those singular efforts that it is impossible to get out of your mind and off of your palate. A flawless, seamless, profound example of Napa Cabernet, it exhibits an opaque purple color along with a gorgeous perfume of lead pencil shavings, cedar, creme de cassis, ink, flowers, and espresso roast. With phenomenal depth, a multidimensional personality, unbelievable length, and an impeccable integration of all its component parts, this stunning wine lasts and lasts, with a finish approaching a full minute. Give this profound wine 3-5 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 25-30 years. This is a superb line-up of wines from Lou Kapcsandy, who emigrated from Hungary to set up a construction business in Seattle, which he gave up for his true love - making wines along with his wife, Bobbi, and son, Louis. They were fortunate to be able to purchase Beringer’s State Lane Vineyard in Yountville, and have it completely replanted by Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer. They then brought in Bordelais Denis Malbec to help produce the wines, which have gone from strength to strength. The 2006s are magnificent, but may be eclipsed by the 2007s. Tel. (707) 948-3100; Fax (707) 948-3106

2002 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard

A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from Oakville , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #157 (Feb 2005)

Rating: 100

Drink 2010 - 2030

Cost: $420-$1292

The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard is one of the greatest young Cabernets I have tasted from California. Believe it or not, it reminds me of the way the 1986 Mouton-Rothschild tasted at age two or three. It is a classic from the tenderloin of Napa Valley – the Oakville corridor. This 650-case cuvee has a dense purple color to the rim and an extraordinary nose of cedar, licorice, spice box, and gobs of creme de cassis liqueur-like notes. The wine has tremendous opulence, massive body, but unbelievable intensity, balance, and overall harmony. There is considerable tannin and acidity that offers vibrancy and delineation, but all this is seamlessly integrated into this modern-day classic. This is a fabulous wine made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in 100% new oak, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030. This wine requires patience. (Note: this wine was rated 99 when the review was printed in The Wine Advocate but the rating was subsequently raised to 100 as posted here.) (Release date 9/05) Tel. (707) 824-9879; Fax (707) 824-5843

2002 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon

A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from Washington, USA,

Review by Pierre Rovani

WA # , #164 (Apr 2006)

Rating: 100

Drink 2006 - 2022

Cost: $265-$399

Unlike some minuscule production “cult” wines or luxury cuvees culled from a winery’s primary product that have earned perfect scores over the years, Quilceda Creek’s Cabernet Sauvignon is the winery’s raison d’etre and is produced in significant quantities (3,400 cases in 2002, 3,425 in 2003). For accomplishing this feat the Golitzens should be doubly proud. Dark ruby-colored and sporting a nose of violets, sweet blueberries, dark cherries, and slight undertones of asphalt, the 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon blossoms on the palate to expose a wine of ethereal delicacy yet immense power. Medium to full-bodied, it expands to reveal concentrated layers of cassis, blackberries, red cherries, raspberries, violets, spices, and touches of candied plums. This rich, exquisitely balanced, sweet, and broad wine is harmonious, graceful, and awesomely long. Projected maturity: now-2022. Congratulations Alex and Paul, welcome to the big leagues. Tel. (360) 568-2389; www.quilcedacreek.com

2003 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon

A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from Washington, USA,

Review by Pierre Rovani

WA # , #164 (Apr 2006)

Rating: 100

Drink 2010 - 2024

Cost: $245-$550

Unlike some minuscule production “cult” wines or luxury cuvees culled from a winery’s primary product that have earned perfect scores over the years, Quilceda Creek’s Cabernet Sauvignon is the winery’s raison d’etre and is produced in significant quantities (3,400 cases in 2002, 3,425 in 2003). For accomplishing this feat the Golitzens should be doubly proud. Darker colored and significantly more powerful than the 2002, the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon displays mouth-watering aromatics of black chocolate, sage, and blackberry liqueur. Its awe-inspiring core of cassis liqueur, violets, blueberry nectar, black cherry syrup, and chocolate is immensely muscular yet elegant. Texturally reminiscent of liquid velvet, it slathers the palate with oodles of fruit, displaying unreal depth, balance, and length. Wow! Projected maturity: 2010-2024. Congratulations Alex and Paul, welcome to the big leagues. Tel. (360) 568-2389; www.quilcedacreek.com

2005 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon

A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from Washington, USA,

Review by

WA # , #177 (Jun 2008)

Rating: 100

Drink 2015 - 2040

Cost: $189-$428

The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon contains 3% Merlot. The principal component comes from the Champoux Vineyard (in which the winery is a partner) with contributions from the Klipsun and Taptiel Vineyards, outstanding in their own right. It, too, was aged for 22 months in 100% new French oak. Opaque purple-colored, it has a splendid perfume of violets, wood smoke, truffle, Asian spices, black cherry, and black currant preserves. Opulent and mouth-coating, the layers of complex flavors nearly hide enough tannin to support 8-10 years of additional cellaring. The oak, tannin, and acidity are beautifully integrated and the lengthy finish lasts for well over a minute. Purchasers no doubt will want to try a bottle immediately but this towering effort will not reach its peak until 2015 at the earliest and provide pleasure through 2040. I say this with confidence because a 1983 Quilceda Creek Cabernet tasted in May 2008 is at its peak now and should carry on for another 10-15 years. Quilceda Creek Vintners remains a model of consistency. In the outstanding 2005 vintage, Quilceda Creek’s Cabernet Sauvignon remains the benchmark for what can be achieved in Washington and the United States. Some good news from the winery is that beginning with the 2006 vintage, there will be a new vineyard designate, a Cabernet Sauvignon from the Palengat Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The vines are only 7 years old but the potential is enormous as a taste from barrel attests. Tel.(360) 568-2389; www.quilcedacreek.com

2007 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon

A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from Washington, USA,

Review by

WA # , #190 (Aug 2010)

Rating: 100

Drink 2010 - 2037

Cost: $170-$395

The flagship 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon contains 3% Merlot. This multi-dimensional offering surrenders an inviting bouquet of sandalwood, Asian spices, violets, truffle, black currant, and blackberry. Seamless on the palate with no hard edges, it is mouth-coating, powerful, and exceptionally light on its feet all at the same time. Impeccably balanced and with plenty of fine-grained tannin in the background, it should effortlessly achieve its 30th birthday. The entire portfolio is a tour de force! Quilceda Creek remains Washington’s benchmark for world-class Cabernet Sauvignon. The Golitzins were ecstatic about the fruit quality in 2007, a near-perfect vintage from their perspective. The only change is that a varietal Merlot is no longer being bottled. Tel. (360) 568-2389; www.quilcedacreek.com

2007 Saxum James Berry Vineyard Proprietary Red

A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from Paso Robles , San Luis Obispo, Central Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #184 (Aug 2009)

Rating: 100

Drink 2009 - 2024

Cost: $225-$330

Utter perfection, and one of the most profound Rhone Ranger wines I have ever tasted is the 2007 James Berry Vineyard Proprietary Red, a blend of 41% Grenache, 31% Mourvedre, and 28% Syrah (15.8% alcohol). It would be an amazing wine to insert in a tasting of the most profound 2007 Chateauneuf du Papes. As with many prodigious wines, the extraordinary freshness, purity, equilibrium, and singularity of this effort is breathtaking. Its dense purple color is accompanied by an extraordinary, incredibly pure, all enveloping, intense, sweet nose of black raspberries, kirsch, spring flowers, spice box, and pepper. Full-bodied with not a hard edge to be found, it is stunningly concentrated with unreal purity, a voluptuous texture, and remarkable freshness for a wine of such power, depth, and concentration. This 2007 will be approachable young, although I would not be surprised to see it close down given the relatively elevated proportion of Mourvedre, and it should drink well for 12-15 years. (Not yet released) One of California’s super-star producers, Saxum owns one of the state’s most remarkable vineyard sites, the James Berry Vineyard, which has been broken into a number of different blocks, all planted on rocky limestone hillsides. This estate’s approach to winemaking is decidedly artisinal, with extraordinarily small yields as well as a minimalistic winemaking philosophy. Proprietors Justin and Heather Smith, who seem much too young to be producing such prodigious wines, fashion separate blends from the different blocks of the James Berry Vineyard. They also produce a cuvee from the 7-acre Heart Stone Vineyard (also planted on limestone soils) and one from the Booker Vineyard. Saxum’s 2006s are all home runs, but the utterly prodigious 2007s should resonate for decades, and showcase the brilliant potential of these limestone hillside sites west of Highway 101. Kudos to everyone at Saxum. My visit began with two of Smith’s experimental cuvees, which are only available to mailing list customers. As remarkable as the 2006s are, the 2007s are even more prodigious, showcasing just how brilliant certain Paso Robles terroirs can be. Even the most cynical observers of the Rhone Ranger scene will have to take notice of these wines. Even though some of the 2007s had just undergone bottling, I was blown away by how well they performed just a week after being bottled (often one of the worst times to taste a wine). In short, Saxum’s prodigious 2007s are even more nuanced, complex, and concentrated than their brilliant 2006s. Tel. (805) 610-0363; Fax (805) 238-2267

2007 Scarecrow Cabernet Sauvignon

A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from Rutherford , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #186 (Dec 2009)

Rating: 100

Drink -

Cost: $525-$1000

Scarecrow’s inky/purple-colored 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon is a prodigious effort. It reveals a liqueur of crushed rocks intermixed with a smorgasbord of spring flower, blueberry, creme de cassis, and assorted blue, black, and red fruit characteristics. It also possesses extraordinary concentration, but what sets it apart is the fragrant aromatics combined with uncommon purity and elegance for such a full-bodied, massively concentrated wine. Its perfect balance suggests it can be drunk at a relatively young age, but it should easily evolve over 30-35 years. Congratulations to all involved! Tel. (707) 963-3361; Fax (707) 968-9367

2006 Schrader Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Ccs

A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from Oakville , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #180 (Dec 2008)

Rating: 100

Drink -

Cost: $799

The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To-Kalon CCS is utter perfection in Cabernet Sauvignon. Extraordinary power, fruit depth, and perfume (not dissimilar from its siblings’) as well as a seamlessness, monumental richness, and a staggering finish are the stuff of legends. Again, the dominant characteristics are creme de cassis, graphite, espresso, blackberries, chocolate, and subtle background new oak. As I wrote last year, this is a fascinating portfolio of 100% Cabernet Sauvignons all of them from Beckstoffer-owned vineyards, including the To-Kalon Vineyard in Oakville, and one wine from the George III Vineyard in Rutherford. All the wines are aged in 100% new French oak, usually a combination of Darnajou and Taransaud barrels, with a higher percentage of Darnajou used for the T6, CCS, Old Sparky, and Schrader. The different bottlings are essentially based on specific blocks and/or specific clones of Cabernet Sauvignon. In short, I think the 2006s are arguably the finest wines of the vintage, and the 2007s appear to be as profound. Given the fact that these wines seem to put on weight once they are in bottle, the 2007s may eclipse the extraordinary 2006s produced by Carol and Fred Schrader, and their brilliant winemaker, Thomas Brown. Total production of these cuvees is just over 1,500 cases, with the average for each offering 200-250 cases. Readers should keep in mind that all of these wines are aged in 100% new French oak for 20 months, bottled with no clarification, and possess alcohols ranging from 14.5% to 14.9%. This was one of the most exciting tastings I have done in 2008! Tel. (707) 942-1115; Fax (707) 942-2147

2007 Schrader Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Ccs

A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from Oakville , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #186 (Dec 2009)

Rating: 100

Drink 2013 - 2043

Cost: $425

There is something about the inky/purple-hued 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard CCS (clone 4) that blows me away. The most opulent, perfumed, and accessible of these wines, it exhibits an opaque purple color as well as an extraordinary density and richness in addition to copious creme de cassis, cedar, ink, and spice box characteristics. As with all of these wines, there is a seamless integration of acidity, tannin, wood, and alcohol in addition to phenomenal length and ripeness. The multidimensional personality and full-bodied style, with both power and elegance, is compelling. This amazing effort can be drunk now, but it will be even better in 4-5 years, and should unfold gracefully over the following 30+ years. Are readers totally confused about the multiple clonal experiments and single block Schrader Cabernet Sauvignons? All of them emanate from the Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard with one exception, the George III Vineyard in Rutherford. Schrader’s mission statement is essentially one where their 30-year leases on vineyard parcels give them the ability to present a specific clonal study of Cabernet Sauvignon from three highly desired clones (4, 6, and 337) grown within a single vineyard. Perhaps this is more than most people want or need to know. The bottom line is that with their production averages about 1,600 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon, the wines do have subtle differences, but most importantly, all of them are extraordinary in quality – among the finest wines one could possibly find in the world. Fred Schrader and his wife, Carol, hired Thomas Brown to make these wines. Their 2006s were among the finest wines of that vintage, their 2008s look to be among the top wines I tasted in that year, and the 2007s, universally acknowledged as a great vintage for Napa, are spectacular. All of these cuvees are aged in 100% new French oak, mostly Darnajou barrels with a sprinkling of Taransaud. Tel. (707) 942-1212; fax (707) 942-1572

2006 Schrader Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Old Sparky

A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from Oakville , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #180 (Dec 2008)

Rating: 100

Drink -

Cost: $100-$200

The flagship wine, the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To-Kalon Old Sparky, is another remarkable effort, offering up smoky blackberry and cassis fruit intermixed with notions of bouquet garni, roasted meats, creosote, and cedar. Tasting like a first-growth Pauillac from a very ripe, extravagantly rich vintage, this wine looks set to enjoy 25-30 or more years of longevity, as do all of these compelling Cabernets. As I wrote last year, this is a fascinating portfolio of 100% Cabernet Sauvignons all of them from Beckstoffer-owned vineyards, including the To-Kalon Vineyard in Oakville, and one wine from the George III Vineyard in Rutherford. All the wines are aged in 100% new French oak, usually a combination of Darnajou and Taransaud barrels, with a higher percentage of Darnajou used for the T6, CCS, Old Sparky, and Schrader. The different bottlings are essentially based on specific blocks and/or specific clones of Cabernet Sauvignon. In short, I think the 2006s are arguably the finest wines of the vintage, and the 2007s appear to be as profound. Given the fact that these wines seem to put on weight once they are in bottle, the 2007s may eclipse the extraordinary 2006s produced by Carol and Fred Schrader, and their brilliant winemaker, Thomas Brown. Total production of these cuvees is just over 1,500 cases, with the average for each offering 200-250 cases. Readers should keep in mind that all of these wines are aged in 100% new French oak for 20 months, bottled with no clarification, and possess alcohols ranging from 14.5% to 14.9%. This was one of the most exciting tastings I have done in 2008! Tel. (707) 942-1115; Fax (707) 942-2147

2007 Schrader Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Old Sparky

A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from Oakville , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #186 (Dec 2009)

Rating: 100

Drink 2009 - 2039

Cost:

The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard Old Sparky (a magnums-only blend of clone 4 from two separate blocks, clone 6, and clone 337) is another perfect wine. Ridiculous levels of concentration, without heaviness, extraordinary opulence, and amazing exuberance and flamboyance are found in this beauty along with abundant notes of creme de cassis, cedarwood, spring flowers, lead pencil shavings, and a hint of hot pebbles. It also displays outstanding purity, depth, and full-bodied power. There is a strong undercurrent of minerality in all of these wines which sets 2007 apart from other rich vintages such as 2002. The Old Sparky should also age effortlessly for three decades or more. Are readers totally confused about the multiple clonal experiments and single block Schrader Cabernet Sauvignons? All of them emanate from the Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard with one exception, the George III Vineyard in Rutherford. Schrader’s mission statement is essentially one where their 30-year leases on vineyard parcels give them the ability to present a specific clonal study of Cabernet Sauvignon from three highly desired clones (4, 6, and 337) grown within a single vineyard. Perhaps this is more than most people want or need to know. The bottom line is that with their production averages about 1,600 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon, the wines do have subtle differences, but most importantly, all of them are extraordinary in quality – among the finest wines one could possibly find in the world. Fred Schrader and his wife, Carol, hired Thomas Brown to make these wines. Their 2006s were among the finest wines of that vintage, their 2008s look to be among the top wines I tasted in that year, and the 2007s, universally acknowledged as a great vintage for Napa, are spectacular. All of these cuvees are aged in 100% new French oak, mostly Darnajou barrels with a sprinkling of Taransaud. Tel. (707) 942-1212; fax (707) 942-1572

1997 Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon

A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #126 (Jan 2000)

Rating: 100

Drink - 2020

Cost: $3300-$11250

It doesn't get any better than 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon, a perfect wine. Representing the essence of cassis liqueur intermixed with blackberries, minerals, licorice, and toast, this full-bodied, multi-dimensional classic is fabulous, with extraordinary purity, symmetry, and a finish that lasts for nearly a minute. It has the overall equilibrium to evolve for nearly two decades, but it will be hard to resist upon release. Anticipated maturity: now-2020. Tel. (707) 944-0749; Fax (707) 944-9271

2002 Shafer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select

A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine from Stag's Leap District , Napa, North Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #168 (Dec 2006)

Rating: 100

Drink 2006 - 2036

Cost: $374-$759

One of the world’s most extraordinary Cabernet Sauvignons is the 1,800-2,400-case offering of Shafer’s Hillside Select. It was a treat to re-taste the utterly perfect 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select. A dark purple color is accompanied by a gorgeously powerful nose of pure creme de cassis, pain grille, flowers, licorice, and spice box. Full-bodied with multiple dimensions, superb purity, layers of fruit, and a blockbuster finish, it is an amazing offering. This wine should drink well young yet evolve for 2-3 decades. Tel. (707) 944-2877; Fax (707) 944-9454

2003 Sine Qua Non The Inaugural (Syrah)

A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from Central Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #172 (Aug 2007)

Rating: 100

Drink 2007 - 2022

Cost: $700-$1397

The mind-boggling 2003 The Inaugural Syrah is an emotional experience to taste as well as drink. Aged 38 ½ months in French oak, it was fashioned entirely from the Eleven Confessions Vineyard, which is planted with Syrah clones #470, 174, and the Estrella River and Alban field selections. This stunning Syrah boasts a magnificent bouquet of spring flowers, blueberries, blackberries, charcoal, licorice, and roasted meats. It hits the palate with remarkable intensity, purity, and full-bodied power, but it somehow manages to dance across the taste buds with the gracefulness of a ballerina. Awesomely long, I still tasted this wine 60 seconds after I had spit it out – no easy task, even for a professional. This majestic Syrah should be a modern day legacy for Sine Qua Non, ranking alongside the other stunning Syrahs they have produced, such as the two 2002 cuvees, Just For The Love Of It and Heart Chorea. This is a nuanced, complex wine, whereas the 2004 Poker Face is more exuberant and flamboyant. It should age beautifully for 10-15+ years. To reiterate, it is a challenge to analyze these wines. I know they are distinctive, and I think I am beginning to understand why they are so much greater than just about every other Syrah or Grenache-based wine in California. In short, it is talent and incredibly meticulous hard work. No one works as hard or is as maniacal about a vineyard’s viticulture and winemaking as Manfred Krankl. Take that, add in exceptional talent, humility, top-notch vineyards, and I believe I understand the fundamentals of why these wines are so special. Tel. (805) 649-8901

2002 Sine Qua Non Just For The Love of It (Syrah)

A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from Central Coast, California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #154 (Aug 2004)

Rating: 100

Drink 2004 - 2019

Cost: $565-$1624

A dead-ringer (at least aromatically) for Guigal’s single vineyard Cote Rotie La Mouline, the 2002 Just For The Love of It is the greatest California Syrah I have yet tasted. A one-thousand case blend of 96% Syrah, 2% Grenache, and 2% Viognier, it is nearly equal parts Alban, Bien Nacido, and Stolpman fruit with a small amount from both Shadow Canyon and White Hawk. It boasts a provocative perfume of creme de cassis, toast, blackberries, licorice, barbecue spice, and exotic floral scents. Extremely full-bodied, with fabulous intensity, great purity, awesome length, and a finish that lasts over a minute, this classic is a must purchase. Already accessible, it will drink well for 10-15 years. (Release date 4/05) Tel. (805) 649-8901

2004 Sine Qua Non Poker Face (Syrah)

A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #172 (Aug 2007)

Rating: 100

Drink 2007 - 2022

Cost: $490-$585

The recently released 2004 Poker Face (96% Syrah, 2.5% Mourvedre, and 1.5% Viognier) comes from the Eleven Confessions, White Hawk, Alban, Bien Nacido, and Alta Mesa vineyards. Boasting classic blackberry, creme de cassis, charcoal, acacia flower, and subtle background toasty oak notes, it possesses a fabulous texture, beautiful richness and purity, and a finish that lasts nearly a minute. It is a wine of enormous richness, multiple dimensions, and unreal purity. Although approachable, it benefits from several hours of decanting, and should evolve for 15 or more years. To reiterate, it is a challenge to analyze these wines. I know they are distinctive, and I think I am beginning to understand why they are so much greater than just about every other Syrah or Grenache-based wine in California. In short, it is talent and incredibly meticulous hard work. No one works as hard or is as maniacal about a vineyard’s viticulture and winemaking as Manfred Krankl. Take that, add in exceptional talent, humility, top-notch vineyards, and I believe I understand the fundamentals of why these wines are so special. Tel. (805) 649-8901

2005 Sine Qua Non The 17th Nail In My Cranium Eleven Confessions Vineyard

A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from California, USA,

Review by Robert Parker

WA # , #184 (Aug 2009)

Rating: 100

Drink 2009 - 2024

Cost: $400

The 2005 Syrah The 17th Nail In My Cranium, a blend of 96.5% Syrah and 3.5% Viognier which is aged 38 months prior to bottling. (I always wonder what Marcel Guigal would think of a wine like this which seems to tip its hat in the direction of Cote Rotie and then goes into high gear and clearly says, “I’m just something very different, but thanks for even thinking of that appellation while smelling and tasting me.”) Black as a moonless night, the 2005 17th Nail reveals a stunning nose of spring flowers intermixed with creme de cassis, blackberries, charcoal, graphite, and hints of lard and barbecue spices. Dense, with an endless (and I mean endless) finish, remarkable purity, and layer upon layer of flavor, but no sense of heaviness or flabbiness, this prodigious Syrah should evolve for 15 or more years. Passing through what looks like a junkyard (or the first or second level of hell) to get to the warehouse of both bodily and spiritual pleasures called Sine Qua Non, is a hoot and a howl, but well worth it if you can somehow wrangle an appointment with the reclusive proprietor, Manfred Krankl. Tasting here is one of the highlights of my year, and all my expectations were satisfied if not eclipsed by what Krankl has made in 2007 and 2006. Oh, and there is one utterly perfect late-released 2005. Yields in 2007 were exceptionally low, with the Syrah averaging 1.5 to 2 tons of fruit per acre, Grenache 1.3 tons per acre, and the white grapes 1.28 tons of fruit per acre. Put another way, Krankl’s highest yields averaged a meager 1.05 to 1.55 pounds of fruit per vine. That in large part explains the compelling aromatics, texture, richness, and intensity of these wines. Add to that the compulsive viticultural work and fanatical attention to detail in the winery, and it’s no wonder Sine Qua Non remains one of California’s most remarkable reference points of world-class wines. The good news is that the first wine from the new home vineyard in Ventura County, the Cumulus Vineyard, has been produced. Moreover, the continued brilliance of the other estate vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills, 11 Confessions, is confirmed. Over the last few years I have not been able to taste through the Sine Qua Non wines without coming across one that merits a three-digit score. The final wines to be bottled under the “Mr. K.” moniker include the 2006 The Nobleman and 2006 The Strawman. As some readers may know, this partnership between the famed Austrian, Alois Kracher, and Manfred Krankl has finally come to an end because of the tragic death of Alois Kracher, who fell victim to pancreatic cancer at age 49. The Mr. K. offerings have been remarkable wines that showcased the talents of both of these great winemakers. Tel. (805) 649-8901.